SL/R107: Recomended oil
04-06-2018, 07:54 PM
#2
Recommended oil
Hello, these vehicles use 5W20 mineral oil. Do not add synthetic or semi synthetic, it did not exist in 1980. Befor you change the oil please verify the engine have not synthetoc or semisynthetic oil because it should no bemixed with the mineral one or it will become a sort of "semi solid waste oil". If you don know what kind of oil there is in the engine you better use a "engine cleaner"( I have used "Motul" brand) before you add the new mineral oil.
05-12-2018, 03:53 PM
#4
Member
I'm not trying to start an oil war BUT some of the previous information may not be correct.
1. Mixing synthetic with dino oil does not create a " semi solid waste oil". The big advantage of synthetics is that they have a much narrower range of alkanes( which would be more consistent with temperature) and the esters ( a polar molecule)are much better at sticking to the metal at the "dry" start. The limited range on carbon chain length prevents volatization of the short chains and coking(tarring) at high temps. ( I have a chemistry background and still tutor high school and college level chem) Bottom line: synthetic oils are more thermally stable and are generally protect longer than dino oils
2. Synthetic oils were around in WWII........Mobil 1 was commercially available in 1974
3. Oil technologies have changed......a lot since 1980. Synthetics provide MUCH better protection than dino oils.
4. According to the Mobil 1 website, your 1980 can use several varieties of Mobil 1.
5. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in all 7 of my SLs------ranging from a 2015 SL65 to a 1967 250SL. I also use Mobil 1 in my 345K mile 240D.
6. AMG and I believe ALL MB cars come with 0W-40 Mobil 1.
7. A lighter/thinner oil is what you want on start up, especially in cool weather.........hence the 0W. 0W-40 covers a huge temperature range.
Best regards
Mike
1. Mixing synthetic with dino oil does not create a " semi solid waste oil". The big advantage of synthetics is that they have a much narrower range of alkanes( which would be more consistent with temperature) and the esters ( a polar molecule)are much better at sticking to the metal at the "dry" start. The limited range on carbon chain length prevents volatization of the short chains and coking(tarring) at high temps. ( I have a chemistry background and still tutor high school and college level chem) Bottom line: synthetic oils are more thermally stable and are generally protect longer than dino oils
2. Synthetic oils were around in WWII........Mobil 1 was commercially available in 1974
3. Oil technologies have changed......a lot since 1980. Synthetics provide MUCH better protection than dino oils.
4. According to the Mobil 1 website, your 1980 can use several varieties of Mobil 1.
5. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in all 7 of my SLs------ranging from a 2015 SL65 to a 1967 250SL. I also use Mobil 1 in my 345K mile 240D.
6. AMG and I believe ALL MB cars come with 0W-40 Mobil 1.
7. A lighter/thinner oil is what you want on start up, especially in cool weather.........hence the 0W. 0W-40 covers a huge temperature range.
Best regards
Mike
01-11-2020, 01:44 PM
#5
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450 SL
Synthetic oil in olde4 car
I just bought a 1980 450 sl with 63,000 miles. So I guess I will be fine with mobile 1 0w 40. Can synthetic oil damage gaskets and cause leaks in an older car like mine?
05-13-2020, 02:40 AM
#6
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Wow. 99% of synthetic oil products are simply more highly refined HC hydrocrack base oil, which is the same chemically as the "dino" oil it's made from. All they do is leave it in the cracker a while longer to get a higher Visc Index.
The idea that synth oil causes leaks goes back to the earliest synth formulations with PAO, which shrinks seals. So esters were added to balance the effect with some seal-swelling. Never the mind, modern syth-dino oils HC base are seal-neutral, as are the newer GTL gas-to-liquid base oils, like Pennzoil features.
I use a lot of dino oil in my non-turbos, MaxLife 10w-40 (semi syn) Pennzoil / QuakerState High Miles, etc. If I'm changing every year after 2k miles, what's to be gained with expensive oil anyway?
Frankly, 2 changes of dino oil a year are perfect for many drivers, and BETTER than a single change of synth oil (in non-turbos). Yep, there's no substitute for physically draining out contaminates and old oil after the friction additives are worn out. Even better, I mix 5w-30 and 10w-40 for the summer/winter seasons. Figure 5q of thick or thin oil for the seasons, with 3q of the other product added to make 8. The leftover 2q for top-offs.
Dino oil is a LOT better than 20 years ago, better than synth oil was back then. Also, MB does NOT require synth oil in most engines, anything w/o a turbo.
The idea that synth oil causes leaks goes back to the earliest synth formulations with PAO, which shrinks seals. So esters were added to balance the effect with some seal-swelling. Never the mind, modern syth-dino oils HC base are seal-neutral, as are the newer GTL gas-to-liquid base oils, like Pennzoil features.
I use a lot of dino oil in my non-turbos, MaxLife 10w-40 (semi syn) Pennzoil / QuakerState High Miles, etc. If I'm changing every year after 2k miles, what's to be gained with expensive oil anyway?
Frankly, 2 changes of dino oil a year are perfect for many drivers, and BETTER than a single change of synth oil (in non-turbos). Yep, there's no substitute for physically draining out contaminates and old oil after the friction additives are worn out. Even better, I mix 5w-30 and 10w-40 for the summer/winter seasons. Figure 5q of thick or thin oil for the seasons, with 3q of the other product added to make 8. The leftover 2q for top-offs.
Dino oil is a LOT better than 20 years ago, better than synth oil was back then. Also, MB does NOT require synth oil in most engines, anything w/o a turbo.
05-13-2020, 11:52 AM
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
In a slow-revving 1980 V8, I would use 10w-40 HiMiles
15w-40 diesel-rated oil will clean up the internals, use it a few times. 10w-30 HD is a slightly better bet, Delo or Rotella or Mobil 1300S
Overly thick 40 weight will just bog down the engine.
I just ordered 6 jugs of QS 10w-40 for $7/5q
Mom's VW 5 cyl, sister's old Audi V6 and my M113 are all using it. I have many jugs of Rotella 5w-40 here that would work great, but are unnecessary in an old engine.
The lube tech from 1980 is API SH or maybe SJ....modern SL/SM is far an away better than what the engine was "designed" for. Think about it, what's the benefit of super-formulated 0w-40 in that engine? There is none.
15w-40 diesel-rated oil will clean up the internals, use it a few times. 10w-30 HD is a slightly better bet, Delo or Rotella or Mobil 1300S
Overly thick 40 weight will just bog down the engine.
I just ordered 6 jugs of QS 10w-40 for $7/5q
Mom's VW 5 cyl, sister's old Audi V6 and my M113 are all using it. I have many jugs of Rotella 5w-40 here that would work great, but are unnecessary in an old engine.
The lube tech from 1980 is API SH or maybe SJ....modern SL/SM is far an away better than what the engine was "designed" for. Think about it, what's the benefit of super-formulated 0w-40 in that engine? There is none.
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05-13-2020, 11:59 AM
#8
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Lower wear? Bzzt.
Better detergency? Bzzt.
Longer service? Only if you run it a long time. Most DIY people don't. Fuel dilution from carbed engines will kill any oil after 5000 miles, better to change it more with cheap oil.
Ancient engines designed to run on ancient oil are going to _______ on modern 0w-40??? Nothing, they run the same.
Is 10w-40 from a jug ideal, and a big improvement over antique oil? Yes.
