SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Finally! Some hard 1/4 mile data for my SL600
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Finally! Some hard 1/4 mile data for my SL600
First time ever racing this particular car. JAYCL600 whispered in my ear a tip on to how to launch this dune buggy, which helped tremendously. Two best runs:
11.55@120 w/1.79 60'
11.57@119 w/1.80 60'
Times were about .50 faster than what I as expecting. It's not the E.T. or MPH that stunned me, it was those 60' times. I guess I should mention that I was running Conti All-Season radials at stock air pressure.
Car is bone *** stock with a Eurocharged shelf tune.
11.55@120 w/1.79 60'
11.57@119 w/1.80 60'
Times were about .50 faster than what I as expecting. It's not the E.T. or MPH that stunned me, it was those 60' times. I guess I should mention that I was running Conti All-Season radials at stock air pressure.
Car is bone *** stock with a Eurocharged shelf tune.
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Nice Runs. With these heavy monsters and serious torque, it is all about the 60' time. Did you bring up the revs at launch or go from idle?
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
I put down 484rwhp and 610rwtq on a dyno dynamics.
I tried a few things, but on streets, brake boosting it at the line just made it harder to hook. My best times were off idle.
Good question. Eurocharged came out to support me, camdon and blackbenzz, in case we had any issues or to do some dragstrip side tuning. My idea was to flash back to stock, then to my tune to see the difference. But, with my car running so well, I didn't want to goof around with it.
12.2 - 12.4 stock. There was 1 11.90 run by Car and Driver. Rumor has it, that was a tuned SL600. That very same car had a 3.6 0-60 time too.
Good question. Eurocharged came out to support me, camdon and blackbenzz, in case we had any issues or to do some dragstrip side tuning. My idea was to flash back to stock, then to my tune to see the difference. But, with my car running so well, I didn't want to goof around with it.
12.2 - 12.4 stock. There was 1 11.90 run by Car and Driver. Rumor has it, that was a tuned SL600. That very same car had a 3.6 0-60 time too.
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#10
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Nice times. I put down similar #s on dyno dynamics with my stock 65 and have run identical ET/MPH making that power.
I seem to recall from your previous thread that you were trying to correct your RWHP #s to crank numbers, and from what I have seen - a DD that is used properly tends to show 22% drivetrain loss, which means you would take your RWHP # and divide by .78. If you made 484rwhp, that would put you around 620 at the crank. That is about inline with what a 65 makes stock, and since we ET/MPH similar, it seems to reinforce my theory.
That correction also seems to apply to 55s.
Again, though, dyno #s are really hard to use for anything because they can be so unreliable. In this case, it seems to make some sense.
-m
I seem to recall from your previous thread that you were trying to correct your RWHP #s to crank numbers, and from what I have seen - a DD that is used properly tends to show 22% drivetrain loss, which means you would take your RWHP # and divide by .78. If you made 484rwhp, that would put you around 620 at the crank. That is about inline with what a 65 makes stock, and since we ET/MPH similar, it seems to reinforce my theory.
That correction also seems to apply to 55s.
Again, though, dyno #s are really hard to use for anything because they can be so unreliable. In this case, it seems to make some sense.
-m
Last edited by Marcus Frost; 10-31-2009 at 05:39 PM.
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Nice times. I put down similar #s on dyno dynamics with my stock 65 and have run identical ET/MPH making that power.
I seem to recall from your previous thread that you were trying to correct your RWHP #s to crank numbers, and from what I have seen - a DD that is used properly tends to show 22% drivetrain loss, which means you would take your RWHP # and divide by .78. If you made 484rwhp, that would put you around 620 at the crank. That is about inline with what a 65 makes stock, and since we ET/MPH similar, it seems to reinforce my theory.
That correction also seems to apply to 55s.
Again, though, dyno #s are really hard to use for anything because they can be so unreliable. In this case, it seems to make some sense.
-m
I seem to recall from your previous thread that you were trying to correct your RWHP #s to crank numbers, and from what I have seen - a DD that is used properly tends to show 22% drivetrain loss, which means you would take your RWHP # and divide by .78. If you made 484rwhp, that would put you around 620 at the crank. That is about inline with what a 65 makes stock, and since we ET/MPH similar, it seems to reinforce my theory.
That correction also seems to apply to 55s.
Again, though, dyno #s are really hard to use for anything because they can be so unreliable. In this case, it seems to make some sense.
-m
His first run was a soft, lazy launch and ran an 11.0x. His second run, he launched hard and it dead hooked. Either broke his tranny, or rear or something. That is easily a 10.8x car.
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
^^^^Thanks!
And to end some speculation:
This was without driver and 1/4 tank of gas. Even kept the spare in the trunk.
And to end some speculation:
This was without driver and 1/4 tank of gas. Even kept the spare in the trunk.
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New hi-flo's weighed 7lbs totall= 37 less off cats = 4183 gotta add back IC reservoir weight filled close to 40lbs puts me close to 4223lbs, I gotta do the lightweight rear batt knock off those 40lbs again will = 4183 verrry kewl info if i pop the pass seat they weigh 90 lbs w/heat/massage/air so I could feasibly see 4093!!
Last edited by Thericker; 11-01-2009 at 02:58 AM.
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The owner of the shop says that his DD dyno consistently rates cars 8-10% lower than a DJ. His advice was to figure 28% loss on his dyno. That would put my car way up there as far as HP/TQ goes, so I don't know. Now that I finally have some hard 1/4 mile data, it's much easier to confirm gains with MPH.
-m
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Yep.
I agree with you. But the owner was adamant that his dyno reads 10% lower than a DJ, consistently. But I agree, there's no way I'm putting down that much power. Now that I have 1/4 mile MPH data, I could care less about my dyno numbers. I was very interested in them before I ran the car down the track.
Thanks. I was not expecting those times, that's for sure. Can't wait to see what your car does when you get the tranny/rear resolved.
Eurocharged took some videos. I'll ping Tony to post em.
Eurocharged took some videos. I'll ping Tony to post em.
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SL55 AMG
quite frankly ... dyno numbers matter squat...I, and everyone else there, was very impressed in BOR's SL600 with all season tires and tune repeatedly piloted into the mid 11's ...with some drag radials BOR will be low 11's for sure...
there's a lot of correlative calculations and hypothetical deductions leading to theoretical reasoning on the forum it seems...ultimately none of that matters...the only truth is the timeslip ...I learned that on friday
In fact I don't even know how much my sl55 dynos at nor do I really care ...all I know is that it's stock with just a tune and street tires...and ran 12.0x ...gotta admit I am kinda curious about getting her dynoed though just to see the figures (in addition next time I'm at MIR I'm gonna put her on the scales also to check out the weight)
there's a lot of correlative calculations and hypothetical deductions leading to theoretical reasoning on the forum it seems...ultimately none of that matters...the only truth is the timeslip ...I learned that on friday
In fact I don't even know how much my sl55 dynos at nor do I really care ...all I know is that it's stock with just a tune and street tires...and ran 12.0x ...gotta admit I am kinda curious about getting her dynoed though just to see the figures (in addition next time I'm at MIR I'm gonna put her on the scales also to check out the weight)
#22
Strap some DRs and hit some low 11s, I say 11.2-11.3! 11.55 on all seasons is more than shaking, If you had some sticker street tires I wonder how lower the times would be. Great runs none the less!
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Dyno numbers are inconsistent and complicated, but you shouldn't write them off completely. It can be a valuable tool for helping to document and diagnose problems, especially if you consistently use the same dyno/operator. I have been using my dyno operator for a long time and when it showed drops in power, it always translated to lower ET/MPH. If I was bouncing around from dyno to dyno I'd never be able to figure out anything. Using a dyno that has done a lot of MBs, and is consistent with how they actually dyno the car (same operator, strap down procedure, etc) can yield consistent data.
Comparing stuff across the country will always be problematic, but in this case BOR and my 65 made similiar numbers on the same type of Dyno across the country AND we actually ran almost identical times at the track. This is a case where the dyno numbers seem to have been correct.
-m
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Sunir,
Dyno numbers are inconsistent and complicated, but you shouldn't write them off completely. It can be a valuable tool for helping to document and diagnose problems, especially if you consistently use the same dyno/operator. I have been using my dyno operator for a long time and when it showed drops in power, it always translated to lower ET/MPH. If I was bouncing around from dyno to dyno I'd never be able to figure out anything. Using a dyno that has done a lot of MBs, and is consistent with how they actually dyno the car (same operator, strap down procedure, etc) can yield consistent data.
Comparing stuff across the country will always be problematic, but in this case BOR and my 65 made similiar numbers on the same type of Dyno across the country AND we actually ran almost identical times at the track. This is a case where the dyno numbers seem to have been correct.
-m
Dyno numbers are inconsistent and complicated, but you shouldn't write them off completely. It can be a valuable tool for helping to document and diagnose problems, especially if you consistently use the same dyno/operator. I have been using my dyno operator for a long time and when it showed drops in power, it always translated to lower ET/MPH. If I was bouncing around from dyno to dyno I'd never be able to figure out anything. Using a dyno that has done a lot of MBs, and is consistent with how they actually dyno the car (same operator, strap down procedure, etc) can yield consistent data.
Comparing stuff across the country will always be problematic, but in this case BOR and my 65 made similiar numbers on the same type of Dyno across the country AND we actually ran almost identical times at the track. This is a case where the dyno numbers seem to have been correct.
-m
I am going to get my car dynoed soon and I agree staying with the same dyno can help diagnose problems, like an IC pump going bad or the like...or even justify if the mods put on the car are actually working. Wish I had a baseline for my car...now that there is a basic stage 1 flash we won't know the hp/tq delta ...the ultimate goal was to get all the mods done then custom dyno tune it the right way and then see the overall delta...that will have to wait though
I's thinking about the direction I want to go...I may sell my car and go to an SL65 or Porsche, but I like the 65's power...then again I may keep my 55 and mod it...dunno yet
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Honestly guys, I don't know if I can improve on that ET much with drag radials. On my three best runs, I was able to get the car to dead-hook on those street tires. What DRs will give me, is consistency. I will most likely hook 80-90 percent of the time, and that will keep my car near it's potential. I will be able to brake-boost the car at the line, which should result in a harder launch with a better 60'. That would help my E.T., but I'd need to improve that 60' a bunch to see low 11's. Remember, I'm seeing 120-121 mph, and I think I'd need about 124 or so, to see low 11's. Drag radials are not gonna help my MPH, only HP will. On the runs that I didn't hook very well, the car would break traction at launch, then again in first when the snails spooled up, then again in second at full boost. All of those runs were 12.0x.
What will help me, is better DA. We were unseasonably warm and humid on 10/30, and the air should be much better on DEC5th. But, with better air, comes more powah, and with more powah, comes traction problems. It's gonna be hard enough to launch with low track temps anyways. It's a vicious circle.
Also, we left HP and torque on the table from this shelf tune. I'm running a slightly detuned version of their normal shelf tune. Once I do some cooling mods, all Hell's gonna break loose. No pun intended.
What will help me, is better DA. We were unseasonably warm and humid on 10/30, and the air should be much better on DEC5th. But, with better air, comes more powah, and with more powah, comes traction problems. It's gonna be hard enough to launch with low track temps anyways. It's a vicious circle.
Also, we left HP and torque on the table from this shelf tune. I'm running a slightly detuned version of their normal shelf tune. Once I do some cooling mods, all Hell's gonna break loose. No pun intended.
Last edited by Benz-O-Rama; 11-02-2009 at 02:09 PM.