overZealous1's build thread
 

finally have almost all the parts for round one of my build. list is-

eurocharged 180mm pulley
shardul's upper pulley
shardul's belt wrap kit
ev14 550cc injectors
82mm throttle body (i had the 74mm stock one :( )
fuel rail modifications
6 gallon trunk mounted water/ice tank
aem progressive methanol injection

doing other little maintenance things like plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, fuel filter and replacing anything i find that is on it's way out.
work started yesterday and trunk set up is already nearly done. motor is pretty stripped down too. hoping to have wrapped up in a couple weeks! pics to follow.

here is the install of the water and meth tanks in the trunk. very easy to access. i found some matching carpet, and will be painting tops of tanks grey to also blend them in to look a little more factory. finish touch will be labels on the caps.

Attachment 378869

Attachment 378870

engine partially torn down, figured i should do valve cover gaskets while it is down.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...z/DSC00317.jpg

Headers should really be the first on the list.

all in due time. havn't decided to build my own or fork out the money.

OZ, excellent parts list! Do you have to drill exit holes for hoses? Where did you get the larger tank from? Your setup should lay down some serious #s.

thanks kustom. here is a link to the tank. http://www.ebay.com/itm/380462524354...84.m1439.l2649 it is just a simple hydraulic fluid tank designed for some type of machinery. can't beat the price!! i mounted the way i did so it would have 2 attach points, one low, and then supported high by the new floor piece i made. should be solid as a rock and not move.
my garage looks like a benz yard sale! i am going to be held up by the throttle body not coming till next week. other than that, i am already back on to assembly! both upper and lower pullies on.

btw- i went old school on removing the crank bolt. since i had valve covers off and spark plugs out, you can pick a piston that is on the comp stroke, bring it to bdc, then stuff a nylon rope inside. start turning crank bolt and the rope will stop piston and you can then reef on the crank bolt and remove it. no special tools to buy! simple and worked great!


finished trunk-

Attachment 378866
Attachment 378867

no paint would stick to the larger black tank for some reason, so wrapped it in the 3d cf vinyl. i like it, just simple and great access with taking up hardly any useable space.

forgot to answer all your questions, lol. there is a large plastic piece that is at the very front of the trunk well. i have yet to see what is on the other side of it, but i believe it is pretty clear. i picked up a couple different types of grommets thinking i would have to go through sheetmetal somewhere, but i am predicting i can just cut holes in the plastic piece. it is about 4"x5", plenty of room to run the lines through.

Fantastic work and good thinking on the rope idea. I have little patience and would probably have used the rope to hang myself after trying and failing to get the nut off.

Have you decided on a pump and where your going to mount it for the water tank?

one of the very first things i did to the car was an aux he and the johnson pump. think i will route it as follows. intercooler, factory he, pump, aux he, then trunk tank, then back to intercooler. should work the best and even help the johnson pump from heating the water itself.

OLD School
 

btw- i went old school on removing the crank bolt. since i had valve covers off and spark plugs out, you can pick a piston that is on the comp stroke, bring it to bdc, then stuff a nylon rope inside. start turning crank bolt and the rope will stop piston and you can then reef on the crank bolt and remove it. no special tools to buy! simple and worked great!

old school works in time of need. When it comes to reassembly use the holding figure & use the new ARP bolt .

Attached is a ARP bolt Kit for Mercedes M-113 K engine , that attaches the H/B to the Crankshaft. Material is 4340 Steel Heat treated to AMS-H-6875 spec. Rockwell Hardness ( Rc 39-43 )
The threads a rolled on after the heat treat Process, Major improvement .
Factory bolt is a Stretch to yield and has tool cut threads. Which are rough . & can add friction to the torque value , causes loss of clamp pressure , That along with the interrupted keyway edges , doesn’t help to get true torque pressure , And is a 1 time use bolt ! that retails for $48.00
The ARP with a sliding washer & their lube packet, and High strength. We can use the normal Mercedes spec & have twice the clamping factor . and use it more than once too.!! Kit only comes with one bolt
Cheers _PTEngineering

i got the pulley kit from eurocharged, but didn't get the washer or lube. i do have lots of lube though ( ha!) that can be used. i'm sure i can drum up a washer here too.
the mercedes spec is pretty much irrelavent as bolts are torqued to their own elasticity spec. not based on what they are holding. hence the benz one use type bolt. proper bolt stretch so bolt can have correct tension. most bolts will not go back to normal bolt length upon removal and reused and retorqued can loose its elasticity to handle vibration. now installing a new water pump is not really where the concern is, but, new rod bolts, head bolts, main cap bolts and other high vibration areas should always follow bolt spec for torque, not factory bolt specs.
in this case, it is probably fine. a little blue loctite never hurt anything and can act as a lube for reaching true torque specs, like the simple moly lube they have in the packet.

the nylon rope method creates very little stress on engine. with cylinder pressures reaching 1600-1800psi in operation, this creates 1/10th of that spread evenly across piston tops. it just wouldn't be very professional to bring your car to mercedes and the tech say he is tossing rope in there. haha. hence the nifty expensive tool.

Nice work OZ!

Old School
 

The tool / holding Fixture , is only $35.00 from Baum tools E-bay site. I've seen lots of shade tree stuff . Some of them work quite well in time of need. As a matter of fact I prefer the rope method , v/s a piston stop in 2 stroke engine. If you do a search , you with find there are lots of pulleys that come loose & fail the pulley bore & sometimes frets crank snout. I'll be glad to loan the proper tool. There is a crank key-way Pin tool kit also ,
Cheers _PTEngineering

thanks shardul. very impressed with your parts and service and lightning quick responces!

i honestly did try to look for the tool, but didn't find one that would work. i must have not been searching under the right name.
so some people are pinning the pulley along with the keyway?

i may be turning the fuel system into a true return style. rails are off and ends cut off. welding on fittings to do a simple loop now, but, won't require disassembly again to turn into return style. it appears the pump is external, so there must already be a return line to tank. i hear the stock pump has alot of flow, but with nitrous in the future too, i want to be sure. having a good aeromotive regulator in the engine compartment also makes feeding the fuel solenoid a snap. all in all, this thing should be a snap to convert over other intank pump and regulated cars.
for those questioning why go through the trouble? you get far better fuel pressure control in the rails themselves. the trick is keeping the fuel cool so you don't trigger fuel heat sensors since it is constantly cycling through the rails. i found a good dual stage pump for that, or a transmission inline ribbed alum cooler can work too. hardly any pressure in return line, so plumbing gets alot easier.

Great build on yoru car and clean trunk set up!!!

We had the ARP bolts developed for our cars last spring and Paid for the minimum run fees to get these made.

We also developed a crank pulley kit that add an additional keyway and reduces the crankshaft overhang load that all our pulleys have. I have this kit on my car as well. Very easy install, all hard #39 and nitride coated. We call it a crank extension kit and it is designed to work with the ARP bolt only. Again, we had ARP make these bolts and it took about 6 months, as they had to order thread tooling for our cars but the clamping power is greatly increased now with a high quality race bolt.


http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-25130630.jpg

ya, i did notice the crank snout does'nt come out far at all. not alot of grab on the keyway either.

thanks for the compliments. looking forward to running this thing. pretty slick headers on your engine in sig. custom made i assume? want to make another set? lol. i can take care of it from the collector on! ;)

back when i was building the vq35 engines, i came up with a 1/2 head stud kit from arp. we started talking about custom made, but figured since block threads needed to change anyways and could use any insert i wanted, they already had a solution, in a small block ford bolt that would work, lol. got out of that whole set up fee from them!

let me guess, the thread pitch is m18 on the crank bolt? hardest dam thread pitch to find!!

Could you post links to buy the ev14 550cc injectors and fuel rail?

here ya go. he did 8 injectors and the conversion clips for $450 shipped!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330713666015...S:1123&vxp=mtr

fuel rail i am modding on my own. just cut ends off end welding on 6an fittings. i use push lock connectors from there rated at 300psi and an aeroquip hose. not the s.s. braided kind though, they saw through wires and alum! will post pics later when done. hoping to get to it in a couple hours.

Thanks.

had the guy back out of my 82mm throttle body purchase. he gave me a price via ebay messages, i paid him c.c. over phone, then calls back saying it doesn't work. i call him to say i would still buy it for a serious discount as i have a feeling the guts can be converted over. he says it was already crushed. mofo listed it again for $100 more 20 mins after telling me it was crushed!!

toms foreign auto parts!!! watch out! they have tons of stuff on ebay!!

Some interesting stuff going on in here:)

well, here is a few more pics.

fuel rails with fittings welded on ends in preparation for return fuel system. fuel rails are pretty big in diameter, should be no reason to have to change them. the cost, reliability, and ease of install i like using push lock connectors. rated to 300 psi.

Attachment 378855

here is an easy way to keep all your water from pouring out while undoing fittings, just clamp them!

Attachment 378856

1/4" pipe thread i will be using later for boost signal. i don't like splicing into stock lines.

Attachment 378857

before blower....

Attachment 378858

blower going back on. had to change my trunks after this one. blower with intercooler has to weight 130lbs! don't be me, get help! haha

Attachment 378859

my spark plug shipment got messed up, so no plugs till tuesday. search continues on for the 82mm throttle body. not easy to find used!!

spark plugs ended up being wrong ones, and throttle body not expected till tomorrow. sent tcu off to ec and hopefully getting back mon or tues. should be finished with everything else by then. pics coming later today. finally time to run all the lines from the trunk forward.