When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a simple ECU tune and run on super petrol. I was told I would get
680 bhp, and to be quite honest I wouldn't want more, it needs to be improved in other places, try to follow a GTR coming into a traffic circle at
around 80 mph however if the improvements meant stiffer ride,
Forget it..
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Well got the car back today, drove it for a bit without going WOT since I still have to dyno tune the car tomorrow. So hopefully by tomorrow I can get the air/fuel right so I can put the hammer down on the car and see how it does now.
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Well turns out Jerry needs more then a few hours to tune, (more like a whole day) and won't be free till Monday, but a/f checked out so at least I can have some fun driving until then
Thought I post an update since it's been awhile. Xmas and New Year's delayed the project for a bit, as well as some other cars taking up some time at my tuner (1000whp GTR, Widebody 997 GT3 shop car, etc)
Head's went to a machine shop for 3 angle valve job, grinding the valve seats, etc and the turbos have been port matched with the heads
Only thing holding it up now is some seals that I forgot to get for the oil lines for the turbos, and some seals for the thermostat since it was leaking. If nothing is backed ordered, then its all good for the engine to go back to the car and have Jerry to tune the car. Once the engine is back in the car, the upgraded top mount intercoolers can finally begin the mock up.
Here's some picks of the progress
Those pics show nothing. Post pics of the ported parts (intake and exhaust ports)
So what did you put down on the dyno after all this work?
Those pictures are on the first page, as for dyno Jerry didn't have time this week, but he said next week he's pretty open for all day tuning
Maybe I missed it. You have intake port pics on the first page? Do you have a comparison of before/after? It's cool to see someone step outside of the box and test boundaries.
Oh cool, good luck tuning. Hope you are happy with the end result
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
I wish I could have cleaned up the intake side alot, but unlike the v8 heads, the v12 heads have a stupid design where the bolts to the valve covers are right at the intake ports. These aren't my heads but it gives you an idea
I think maybe my machine guy didn't want to risk messing up my only pair of heads. But I now 600 heads are going cheap (500-600 now) idk if its the same as the 65 but its the same part number. But if I do head work, it prob wont be for a year or 2 when I do big turbos if I ever decide to do that. I met Peter for the first time a few days ago at ISP and he def seems like the guy to have that type of job done since he's done many custom TT vipers, gtrs, etc, and with someone local I won't have to ship the car to Speedriven (If they even do that kit still) He even suggested going with a Motec M1 or AEM infinity piggyback so he could fully tune the car and I can keep my other functions like the stupid ABC, and I think going that crazy with a car would require a Motec/AEM ecu at that point
I was really reluctant to do full stand alone since I wouldn't be able to tell if I had any crazy hydraulic issues. But if piggy back can keep my OBDII functions then I might really consider it again. Maybe even do coil overs if that conversion that was done really works. A shop in FL claims they have a coil over kit too.
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Originally Posted by BlownV8
Any updates?
Car is throwing too lean codes atm, ic pump is dead as well. Did some datalogging today and coolant temp was 185 during crusing speeds. 195-205 at idle. Swaping out all the 02 sensors, ic pump, and conductor plate and will track the data from there after the bugs are fixed
Car is throwing too lean codes atm, ic pump is dead as well. Did some datalogging today and coolant temp was 185 during crusing speeds. 195-205 at idle. Swaping out all the 02 sensors, ic pump, and conductor plate and will track the data from there after the bugs are fixed
Make sure they remove the Restrictor Plate & the Governor..
I wish I could have cleaned up the intake side alot, but unlike the v8 heads, the v12 heads have a stupid design where the bolts to the valve covers are right at the intake ports. These aren't my heads but it gives you an idea
I think maybe my machine guy didn't want to risk messing up my only pair of heads. But I now 600 heads are going cheap (500-600 now) idk if its the same as the 65 but its the same part number. But if I do head work, it prob wont be for a year or 2 when I do big turbos if I ever decide to do that. I met Peter for the first time a few days ago at ISP and he def seems like the guy to have that type of job done since he's done many custom TT vipers, gtrs, etc, and with someone local I won't have to ship the car to Speedriven (If they even do that kit still) He even suggested going with a Motec M1 or AEM infinity piggyback so he could fully tune the car and I can keep my other functions like the stupid ABC, and I think going that crazy with a car would require a Motec/AEM ecu at that point
I was really reluctant to do full stand alone since I wouldn't be able to tell if I had any crazy hydraulic issues. But if piggy back can keep my OBDII functions then I might really consider it again. Maybe even do coil overs if that conversion that was done really works. A shop in FL claims they have a coil over kit too.
I'm not sure what you mean about valve cover bolts preventing intake porting.
Same part number means same part or equivalent. The only time stuff like that changes is for things like sensors where they change manufacturers but the end product performs the same.
What is your goal with this car? I remember you and Paul talking about making more power than me and that was over a year ago.
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Car is pulling timing right now. I couldnt think of the reason except the 02 sensors until someone mentioned how bad ic pumps can pull timing. Sure enough it died (idk how prob from sitting for so long). I hooked it up to star today all 02 sensors pulled either an age/corrision error or electrical faults, which would show too lean on a regular obd II scaners.
Ordering all the new sensors, another pump (debating on which one, this is gonna be my 5th pump in 2 1/2 years with 3 CM30 pumps and 1 010 pump) and a new conductor plate kit
Yeah, what's it putting down on the rollers? You have @ least 2 major mods I don't have & I have a lowly SL600, my best was 633 whp. You must be in the 700+ club
Let's see some Dyno's!
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Best I got is 581 timing is pulling really bad. I tried poping the filters off thinking maybe its an intake problem like I had when I did a new exhaust and stock airboxes which dropped to 490s at the time. But no filters just gained 3-5 hp so that wasnt it. When it pulled on the dyno the CEL pops up on WOT runs. The only know problems I know of so far are all 4 02 sensors are bad, rear dont matter but the front controls the fuel tirm. Tested the IC pump and its just done, which Im kinda getting pissed being my 5th pump now to buy and might try that meizere pump (however you spell it). That and the conductor plate is toast at this point.
I ordered all the parts today should see them prob midweek. I got more dyno time next friday and hopefully will see what it does. If I get lean readings still then I might have to check the injectors and swap the fuel filter next. Only other thing I can think of after fixing all that is maybe a boost leak but I dont hear any loud whistles.
Im really hoping its the 02s and the pump thats holding back timing. I did some more data logging today and tested at cold start in 40 degree weather with coolant temp at 160 but it quickly shot up to 195-205 and at 1 point even to 211 and that was only after 15 mins. Crusing at 60-70 mph only dropped it to 185s, but basicly ive been driving with a really heat soaked car without knowing it lol. By next week when I get all the bugs taken cared off should either solve the problem or narrow what I need to address next
Best I got is 581 timing is pulling really bad. I tried poping the filters off thinking maybe its an intake problem like I had when I did a new exhaust and stock airboxes which dropped to 490s at the time. But no filters just gained 3-5 hp so that wasnt it. When it pulled on the dyno the CEL pops up on WOT runs. The only know problems I know of so far are all 4 02 sensors are bad, rear dont matter but the front controls the fuel tirm. Tested the IC pump and its just done, which Im kinda getting pissed being my 5th pump now to buy and might try that meizere pump (however you spell it). That and the conductor plate is toast at this point.
I ordered all the parts today should see them prob midweek. I got more dyno time next friday and hopefully will see what it does. If I get lean readings still then I might have to check the injectors and swap the fuel filter next. Only other thing I can think of after fixing all that is maybe a boost leak but I dont hear any loud whistles.
Im really hoping its the 02s and the pump thats holding back timing. I did some more data logging today and tested at cold start in 40 degree weather with coolant temp at 160 but it quickly shot up to 195-205 and at 1 point even to 211 and that was only after 15 mins. Crusing at 60-70 mph only dropped it to 185s, but basicly ive been driving with a really heat soaked car without knowing it lol. By next week when I get all the bugs taken cared off should either solve the problem or narrow what I need to address next
You know the V12's do not give an accurate reading of IAT's until the TB plate takes in cold air because the sensor is sitting behind it? At iddle or cruising speeds you will always see IAT's in the 130's-140's, although I do admit yours are a little abnormal. Best measure is to go slightly WOT and see where those temps drop.
You know the V12's do not give an accurate reading of IAT's until the TB plate takes in cold air because the sensor is sitting behind it? At iddle or cruising speeds you will always see IAT's in the 130's-140's, although I do admit yours are a little abnormal. Best measure is to go slightly WOT and see where those temps drop.
very true. when you start to give it throttle the IATS will start to go lower to a certain point
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
I wish my IATs were that low, I'm not getting a reading below 160-170 at wot. And this was during 40-50 degree weather. I'm hoping its the pump and and the 02 sensors. I'm honesty surprised to see Star go so in depth to the problem of the O2s, they either gave the age/corrosion error or electrical fault error for each of the O2s, Got the big F error for the IC pump. I'm hoping by this week I when I fix the 02s, IC pump and Conductor Plate I can see if that fixes the issue or I need to keep looking?
If that doesn't fix it then maybe its a boost leak but I didn't hear any loud whistles. A boost leak should make alot of noise right?
I wish my IATs were that low, I'm not getting a reading below 160-170 at wot. And this was during 40-50 degree weather. I'm hoping its the pump and and the 02 sensors. I'm honesty surprised to see Star go so in depth to the problem of the O2s, they either gave the age/corrosion error or electrical fault error for each of the O2s, Got the big F error for the IC pump. I'm hoping by this week I when I fix the 02s, IC pump and Conductor Plate I can see if that fixes the issue or I need to keep looking?
If that doesn't fix it then maybe its a boost leak but I didn't hear any loud whistles. A boost leak should make alot of noise right?
No lol before looking for loud whistles to track down boost leaks, try an old school boost gauge & see how much psi you actually have. You should be seeing between 20-24 psi @ peak rpm's Not to bust your ballz but your description on how to find boost leaks has to be the funniest sh i t I've ever heard... It's all good though I wish you luck on getting her up & running @ full potential I'm afraid to think of just how much $$ you've dumped into her @ this point..
Any progress on this build? Would be good to see some nice numbers/times from this beast. It would greatly help me with my decisions on the direction I wil take with my build.
06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Prob in 1-2 weeks depending on when my trunk tank comes in from NJ. I've been busy last 2 months with projects in the Washington D.C/Baltimore Area and SoCal.
There was 3 issues that caused problems: IC Pump was dead, Bank 1 was dumping more fuel then Bank 2, and 25 errors were stored in the 2 SAM modules, 11 on one side, 14 on the other.
I'm assuming the IC pump died because it sat for so long. As for the errors in the SAM I'm assuming the same thing since the starter/accessory battery died and I had to swap the starter out. As for the fuel trim, that I would bet was putting everything back together.
SAM is cleared out now, which IDK if it fixed anything with timing or not but the traction control would cutout when I floored it and go into limp. When I cleared out the SAM no more TC being disabled. The issue with the fuel trim was running -2/-3 percent richer at idle, -5/-6 percent at cruising and -8/-10 at WOT, so at full WOT I would see 1 bank doing -8/-10 but the other bank would be at -16/-19 but its been fixed now. Only thing I haven't done yet is installed the IC pump since I figured wait to do it when I get the trunk tank so I can hook it all up at the same time. Should be fabbed up by this week since I Paypal the fab guy early last week and shipping should be about a day or too from NJ to DC.
One thing that made finding the problems much easier to find was having an SDS, an ODBII reader wont pick up IC pump failure and wont run system checks like it did on my SAM modules.
03-16-2015, 10:47 AM
however if the improvements meant stiffer ride,
to track down boost leaks, try an old school boost gauge & see how much psi you actually have. You should be seeing between 20-24 psi @ peak rpm's Not to bust your ballz but your description on how to find boost leaks has to be the funniest sh i t I've ever heard... It's all good though I wish you luck on getting her up & running @ full potential I'm afraid to think of just how much $$ you've dumped into her @ this point..
