w210 guys, anyone have a reset procedure after battery disconect? misefire etc help!
 

The wife left the lights on my 99 all night. After charging the battery, the car fired right up. But, the esp, bas and check engine light were on and the car was missing horribly. I cleared the codes with a scan tool but the check engine light comes one with 4 and 7 misfiring any time you take the car over 4k rpm.
It's strange the car will run and idle fine if you don't rev over 4k. Once you do, it misses at idle etc until you shut the motor off and restart. The car was running very well and strong prior to the battery drain. Any help on this? I'm sure there has to be some cure. I couldn't find any document method and am hoping someone has a cure. Thanks in adavance.

Doesn't sound like a battery problem to me ;-((
Mine went dead lot's of times and all I had to do is turn steering wheel to the left and to the right couple of times just in case to reset the ESP. (abs esp bas lights).
Also you have to re syncro windows.

Could you have screwed smth up with the computer tool?
I'd try to disconnect the battery for 10-20 mins or overnight and try again.

good luck

Problem was there before I checked the codes so it didn't have anything to do with the code clearing. Last year I had some o2 sensors replaced and had a similar misfiring situation after getting the car back. Eventually it corrected itself. I was hoping there was a procedure in place so I didn't have to wait.

Did you remove the battery when you charged it? If it was not disconnected, there might have been some electrical damage caused by and external charger. I would suspect the O2 sensors or the MAF sensor. You could have had a coil go bad unrelated to the battery drain. Other than that you could have been running on the extream end of the engine parameters. Now that the battery has been disconnected, it has defaulted back to the basic factory set points.

Thanks for the replies


EK what do you mean by the extreme end of parameters and how would I know that was the case. In extreme parameters, does that mean the car adjusts to improper running?The car had no dummy lights or poor running conditions prior to the battery drain. If it was running on the extreme parameters would it return to those parameters and run well again?

I had a similar problem minus the battery issue. I went nuts trying to diagnose it - scan tool etc. It started with a misfire and then in continuously got worse. Turns out mine was a tiny exhaust leak...long story short if you bring it to any certified mechanic and it turns out to be an exhaust/emmissions related issue Fed law requires them to replace it for free. IF your car has less than 80,000 miles. In addition it has to be considered a "major" emmissions part meaning a header or O2 sensor. Keep us informed, I have the paperwork for reference if you need it regarding the fed emmissions law.

So far it's perplexing the tech. I have a misfire on 4 and 7 which was also an issue a few months back. Then it was corrected by replacing the coils. Now we tried switching out the coils, changing out the wires and plugs on those cylinders without any result. Next will be to switch injectors and see what happens. I pray that is the issue and I'm lucky we didn't just start throwing new parts at it like the last place I had some service. Any other ideas if the injector swap doesn't work?
Thanks,

I am going to be replacing my (original) battery soon. Thinking about hooking up my battery tender @ 2 amps (low) to the cables prior to removing the battery in order to keep a consistant current in the system. I have seen some repair shops use a plug-in power source to the cigar lighter in order to do the same thing - in that way the car never realizes that the battery has been disconnected - and no rests are required.

Definitely recommend that. I replaced the battery in my '02 about 2 months ago and this made it totally painless.

What Battery Did You Choose? Any Non-factory Considerations?

I know
 

it's an old post,but anybody searching for solutions needs to know,The reset procedure is in your manual,sync the windows and sun roof by rolling them down and all the way up and hold switch up for a few seconds after closing.From memory turn key to on position and stepping on brake pedal turn the wheel all the way left and right a few times.resets the abs esp, etc.
As for the misfire code,you are tripping that yourself if you are revving it from idle in park or neutral to 4000 rpm,the factory has an idle rpm limiter set to 4g it is separate of the governed high speed limiter.So if you sit there in park and rev it to 4g you will have misfires and engine shudder and trip a p0300 code.no need to go to the dealer and pay them 250 bucks as above did to clear the problem.And always make sure to have the key out of the ignition when replacing the battery or charging it.
ohlord

FYI, the code was not a byproduct of revving the motor but a byproduct of draining the battery dead. The car never exhibited any symptoms or issues from revving the motor to 4gs. Yes there is a rev limiter but you can rev the motor on that car and my other benz up and down all day without throwing a code. The issues developed immediately after the battery was drained because of the lights being left on all night.
I tried to have a MB local guy clear the codes but I guess his scan tool was not as comprehensive as the big MB Star Diagnostic tool. Net effect $250 for leaving your lights on.
I hope this clarifies the original post.
VVVRRRoooommmm

Wow
 

so it was not from idle in park?it was while on the road?That must have been one really drained battery!Did it damage the charging system or did it resolve itself completely with just a good charge.
:bow:

Either at idle or driving. No damage to anything other than my wallet for a dealer code clearing/system reset.

can't you just disconnect the battery for a few min to reset any codes? why pay $250?

original cause of problem was complete battery discharge equivalent of battery disconnect