VonderHaarAMG

Hello,
Does anyone know how to remove the air filters (2) on the W210 E55 AMG 1999. I have found that I to remove the plastic engine cover all one needs to do is pop three (3) clips up that hold it down. But, once that is off what is the next step. More clips? I have been wiggling the air filter housing but am afraid to break anything. So, how does it come off?

Thanks,
VH

saintz

It pulls up off the car, using friction clips. Then you flip it over and use a star wrench (torx) to open all the screws up.

VonderHaarAMG

Thanks! I was thinking thats how it came off but did not want to pry on it and be wrong. So I guess both air filter boxes come off as one piece, then you turn them upside down and remove the filters at the same time?

Wonder what size torx it is? 15 Maybe.

Thanks Again!
VH

mysticblu999

Can't remember the size, its something like that. The screws won't come all the way out either if i remember right. What filters did you get?

VonderHaarAMG

I bought the Mann OEM replacements (Fleece). Dealer want $70 a piece hahahahah. Where do they come up with those prices?! MBPartsguy on ebay had 'em for $16. My E55 is all original, considered a K/N or some other oil impingement type, but I put a K/N on my old LT1 Camaro and noticed no change (except the fact that I never had to buy another air filter again, I guess).

VH

Aarhuser

I just cleaned my air filter on a 1999 E55 and got the MIL when I started the car. Here is the question: can you tell me if there is a clip holding your airbox outlet down direcly to the mass air meter housing? I know about the 4 friction clips that hold the box, but is there another clip? The dealer says no, but they can't even get me the right parts I ask for. One of the error code readings was mass air flow, but I cleaned the unit and no change. Also, it said possible vaccuum leak, which is why I suspect I'm missing a clip.

tsquare

There is no clip holding the airbox to MAF. There is a preasure fit type gasket on the airbox, (this gasket is responsible for sealsing the airbox to the top of the MAF-it is preaseure fit only) . You should replace this gasket, especially if you suspect it is the original (it will get hard and dry and cause leaks). You will also want to check that you did not move the throttle body when you put the airbox on the MAF as this can create air leaks (when the engine is running you can hear the air leak at idle). ALso there are preformed vacume hoses that can crack and cause leaks, these should alos be checked and/or replaced if they feel dry and brittle.

I recently replaced the (two) gaskets on the throttle body(again they were hard and dry), my MAF and the gasket between the MAF and the airbox. The throttle body was easy to move around the intake manifold when working on the MAF before I replaced the (two) gaskets, now it sits on the intake manifold and MAF much stronger (the seal is much tighter) and the gasket between the MAF and airbox is also much tighter. My car runs terrific since this repair.

Lastly, when you put the airbox back on top of the MAF, as you press down the airbox, be certain to seat the MAF cleanly into the airbox gasket, if you just pres it down, the MAF may be angled and not seated properly into the airbox, the same goes for the throttle body, make certain as you place the airbox onto the MAF that you are not pressing the throttle body into an awkward position. You should be able to see that the throttle body, MAF and airbox are all seated straight.

Hope this helps

VonderHaarAMG

He is right, you have to seat the air box down of the MAF. So now that I have figured out how to do it I have found that it is very easy.

1.) Remove the plastic engine cover. It is held on by friction clips (4 tab-type in rear, and 1 friction type in front). Pull up from back first to release the 4 tabs (back meaning closest to the cab of the car) Then pull up on the single clip in front (closest to the grill). It will pop up and off the engine.

2.) Remove the two (2) air intake hoses that run from the grill into the airbox. There is one on either side of the airbox. They are "accordian" type hoses that are held in place by friction (nothing to unbolt or unscrew). Just grab them each firmly with one hand, put the other hand on the airbox to steady it, and pull toward you (the grill). You may twist them slightly back and forth to ease them sliding off.

3.) With both intake hoses free grab the entire airbox with both hands (get a firm grip on both sides of the airbox), also it helps to grab the airbox near the back (towards cab/firewall). Pull straight up firmly using equal force with both hands. The entire airbox will pop off the car and will be free in your hands. It is held in place with four (4) more friction clips. Once it is removed you will be able to see the four (4) knobs that the friction clips attach to. You will also see the MAF. The back (firewall side) of the airbox has a round hole with a screen and a round rubber gasket surrounding it (this hole will fit back of the MAF when you replace the airbox).

4.) Turn the airbox upside-down. You will see that the perimeter of the airbox holds several torx-type screws (I can't remember now, but I will guess about twelve (12) total. Unscrew each of these to open the airbox. I can't remember exactly, but the torx screw size was either T-15 or T-17 size. The screws will loosen and back out, but will not come all of the way out (good so you don't drop and lose them).

5.) Once all screws are loose pull the airbox apart (comes apart in two (2) pieces). There you will see the two (2) air filters. Remove the air filters (2) by simply pulling them out. A few bugs and wings fell out of my filter when I did this and went into the airbox, so I just used a shop-vac to suck out the dirt. Once airbox is clean, install the two (2) new filters back in the airbox in the same position that the old ones were in and seat them all the way down (or else the airbox may not close back up correctly).

6.) Reassemble the airbox, do not over-tighten the torx screw (snug them down).

7.) To replace the airbox (IMPORTANT). Position the airbox back over the MAF (MAF opening (round) over MAF itself (round)). With the MAF opening aligned over the top of the MAF push down on the front of the airbox (grill side) to lock the friction clips into place. Then place your hand around and under the back of the airbox (firewall side) until you can feel the gap between the airbox MAF gasket and the side of the MAF itself. Push down on the airbox directly above when the MAF opening fits onto the MAF itself untill you feel the gap close, you may have to tap lightly on the top of the airbox to seat it down. There will still be a slight space between the airbox MAF gasket and the lip on the side of the MAF itself, this is normal. Seating the MAF should also have seated the back (firewall side) two (2) friction clips as well. If it did not, just push them into place. Failure to seat the airbox properly may result in the car throwing a MAF code, but this did not happen to me. I would assume if you do throw a MAF code to try re-seating the airbox.

8.) Lastly, replace the plastic engine cover by aligning the four (4) friction tabs (firewall side) in thier spots on the airbox. Once those are in place push down on the front (grill side) of the plastic cover and the one (1) remaining friction clip should snap back into place.

DONE (total time, about 10 minutes)

Hope this helps!

VH

Aarhuser

Awesome, thank you so much for the detailed advice. I am going to try a new seal before replacing the MAF. I cleaned the MAF throrought with CRC 4 times (used the whole can), with no effect. If the seal is bad, then that would have no effect. I am fairly sure i have it seated correctly, but i will check again using the technique listed below.

W210E55_Silver

Sorry about the old thread post, I just got my E55 and this was useful.

During a short drive my check engine light came on, turned out to be a dirty air filter. I cleaned the filter in it, blew out the dust in the airbox, refitted it and the check engine light was gone. Found the filters cheap at Rockauto ($13ea), so will get a pair of new ones soon.

My car has 183k miles, and the MAF looked spotless.

Wanted to add that my North american E55 had T-25 torx screws holding the upper and lower airbox together, not sure if they are all the same.