Weistec supercharger in a 99 e55 amg
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Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG (W210)
Originally Posted by suicidal4life
Looks like they are mid length. Still an amazing build. Thanks for pointing me to your build thread. I'm going to enjoy reading all of it.
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W210 e55 amg
so an update about this money pit of a project so I was going to not sleeve the engine but the dumbass mechanic that was rebuilding my engine somehow scratch the cylinder wall and thought it was a good idea not to inform me about it thank god before the heads went on I caught it so I took my engine out of there and took it to a performance shop in Long Island New York and now the damage is to critical so sleeving is a must I guess it was meant to be so I took it too millennium technologies at 1404 Pilgrim Rd Plymouth, WI and decided to nickel silicone Plate it from what I read it lasts 10xs longer then sleeves so I went that route. I got my engine back 2 weeks ago and now the body kit is on the car and the engine is together in the car tuning is getting done I think it was finished on Friday but I haven't had time to go to the shop the guys texted me he's getting over 850 wheel so the cams upgrade and custom heads did me justice but still didn't hit my goal of a 1000whp so a lil disappointed but now it's time to break records and beat 1000whp cars on the track still didn't install the meth injection eurocharge didn't want to do the tune with meth so I'll probably bring it to powerhouse to install and do the tuning for the meth kit killer chiller is on the car so as the ice tank in the trunk and when I install the meth kit I might add on a 100 shot of nitrous but mostly for cooling purposes. Now the big problem I have is that I'm worried about the suspension all I got is strut bars everywhere and pb coilovers and big amg brake kit if any one can tell me what to do with the rear end axels what differentials I could use front end I don't want to go to the track and have my car leave the axles at the start line so if any one can please give me an idea of what I should do so the suspension can match the power it's a 99 w210 e55 amg anyone with some advice please share it thank you I will post pics and videos once my mechanic sends me them and I have pictures of the nickel silicone plating process that I will post up as well
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W210 e55 amg
hey zayed I was wondering what should I do to the suspension to handle the power if you have any advice to give me that would be great thank you
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if any one can tell me what to do with the rear end axels what differentials I could use front end I don't want to go to the track and have my car leave the axles at the start line so if any one can please give me an idea of what I should do so the suspension can match the powerl
You might want to contact blackbenzz he had custom axles made for his CLK after breaking several stock ones.
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W210 e55 amg
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the chassis have around 134k so miles should I just change all the suspension parts to new parts just to be safe or if not all which parts
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
134k is not that much, if you notice softness on the shocks, you can replace them, no need to replace spring coils,,
*prefer to focus about suspension, after complete all mods..!, it will be easier to figure out, if you need to get new suspension..
"ZAYED"
*prefer to focus about suspension, after complete all mods..!, it will be easier to figure out, if you need to get new suspension..
"ZAYED"
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W210 e55 amg
thank you for the advice I really appreciate it and I'm sorry for bothering you to much 😅😅 lol
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
1) About Front calipers:-
E55K using M14 bolt, while your caliper comes with M12, you have 2 choices;
A) Expand your spindle hole (2mm) more.
B) Copy E55K bracket with M12, instead of M14.
*have to tell me which Rotor you will go with to give the Exact off-set of the Rotor balanced to the caliper.
2) About Rear calipers:-
A) you can go with direct bolt-on setup from "Clk55/Slk55".
B) if you will go with E55K setup, you have to put (2mm) sleeves in the caliper holes, to reduce them from M12 to M10,
and use brake shoes from "W211 E55/W220 S55/R230 Sl55".
"ZAYED"
E55K using M14 bolt, while your caliper comes with M12, you have 2 choices;
A) Expand your spindle hole (2mm) more.
B) Copy E55K bracket with M12, instead of M14.
*have to tell me which Rotor you will go with to give the Exact off-set of the Rotor balanced to the caliper.
2) About Rear calipers:-
A) you can go with direct bolt-on setup from "Clk55/Slk55".
B) if you will go with E55K setup, you have to put (2mm) sleeves in the caliper holes, to reduce them from M12 to M10,
and use brake shoes from "W211 E55/W220 S55/R230 Sl55".
"ZAYED"
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W210 e55 amg
1) About Front calipers:-
E55K using M14 bolt, while your caliper comes with M12, you have 2 choices;
A) Expand your spindle hole (2mm) more.
B) Copy E55K bracket with M12, instead of M14.
*have to tell me which Rotor you will go with to give the Exact off-set of the Rotor balanced to the caliper.
2) About Rear calipers:-
A) you can go with direct bolt-on setup from "Clk55/Slk55".
B) if you will go with E55K setup, you have to put (2mm) sleeves in the caliper holes, to reduce them from M12 to M10,
and use brake shoes from "W211 E55/W220 S55/R230 Sl55".
"ZAYED"
E55K using M14 bolt, while your caliper comes with M12, you have 2 choices;
A) Expand your spindle hole (2mm) more.
B) Copy E55K bracket with M12, instead of M14.
*have to tell me which Rotor you will go with to give the Exact off-set of the Rotor balanced to the caliper.
2) About Rear calipers:-
A) you can go with direct bolt-on setup from "Clk55/Slk55".
B) if you will go with E55K setup, you have to put (2mm) sleeves in the caliper holes, to reduce them from M12 to M10,
and use brake shoes from "W211 E55/W220 S55/R230 Sl55".
"ZAYED"
#94
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i think 6800 to sleeve this engine is just overpriced. i just posted another thread on this exact issue and i think the cost for sleeveing should be between $2000 and $3000.
i would really love to hear exactly what im getting for 6800 and please do not tell me about tolerances, that is a joke.
i would really love to hear exactly what im getting for 6800 and please do not tell me about tolerances, that is a joke.
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W210 e55 amg
i think 6800 to sleeve this engine is just overpriced. i just posted another thread on this exact issue and i think the cost for sleeveing should be between $2000 and $3000.
i would really love to hear exactly what im getting for 6800 and please do not tell me about tolerances, that is a joke.
i would really love to hear exactly what im getting for 6800 and please do not tell me about tolerances, that is a joke.
#96
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i was just reading an article on that process!!! i went back now and saw they recommended using moly or tungsten carbide faced rings for that type of coating.
so you are getting a bore and a coating, they will probably hone it to spec, deck, assemble and attach the heads? whats the $$$ damage on that (more curious on the cost of the coating step if they broke it down for you)? and what pistons are they recommending or you leaning towards?
i'm much more comfortable with having sleeves installed tbh. dont get me wrong, i know there are shops that are proficient with the coating process, but i would expect a really big bill. i thought i also read somewhere that the nickel coating may not stick to the alusil, but i am definitely not sure about that. i know i definitely read that the coating really has to be done perfectly, not too thick, not too thin and then honed perfectly. they have some funky lasers or something to test it prior putting in the pistons.
so you are getting a bore and a coating, they will probably hone it to spec, deck, assemble and attach the heads? whats the $$$ damage on that (more curious on the cost of the coating step if they broke it down for you)? and what pistons are they recommending or you leaning towards?
i'm much more comfortable with having sleeves installed tbh. dont get me wrong, i know there are shops that are proficient with the coating process, but i would expect a really big bill. i thought i also read somewhere that the nickel coating may not stick to the alusil, but i am definitely not sure about that. i know i definitely read that the coating really has to be done perfectly, not too thick, not too thin and then honed perfectly. they have some funky lasers or something to test it prior putting in the pistons.
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W210 e55 amg
i was just reading an article on that process!!! i went back now and saw they recommended using moly or tungsten carbide faced rings for that type of coating.
so you are getting a bore and a coating, they will probably hone it to spec, deck, assemble and attach the heads? whats the $$$ damage on that (more curious on the cost of the coating step if they broke it down for you)? and what pistons are they recommending or you leaning towards?
i'm much more comfortable with having sleeves installed tbh. dont get me wrong, i know there are shops that are proficient with the coating process, but i would expect a really big bill. i thought i also read somewhere that the nickel coating may not stick to the alusil, but i am definitely not sure about that. i know i definitely read that the coating really has to be done perfectly, not too thick, not too thin and then honed perfectly. they have some funky lasers or something to test it prior putting in the pistons.
so you are getting a bore and a coating, they will probably hone it to spec, deck, assemble and attach the heads? whats the $$$ damage on that (more curious on the cost of the coating step if they broke it down for you)? and what pistons are they recommending or you leaning towards?
i'm much more comfortable with having sleeves installed tbh. dont get me wrong, i know there are shops that are proficient with the coating process, but i would expect a really big bill. i thought i also read somewhere that the nickel coating may not stick to the alusil, but i am definitely not sure about that. i know i definitely read that the coating really has to be done perfectly, not too thick, not too thin and then honed perfectly. they have some funky lasers or something to test it prior putting in the pistons.
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Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG (W210)
Originally Posted by 1999w210e55amg
the process is complicated and hard to explain but it is now cheaper then sleeving and A lot more reliable the charged me $2000 to do it and that with the rush process instead of waiting 20 days for it to come back it only takes 10 and I read up on it a lot it is literally 10x better then sleeving keeps the cylinder walls cooler and it is so much better in so many ways if I were you I'd go that route the place I took my engine to is Millennium technology they are good people
Basically, they will clean the whole block with a chemical bath to remove any previous coatings, grease, dirt etc but most importantly, expose any cracks, scoring or other damage the cylinders or block may be "hiding".
If they find cracks, deep scoring etc they will cut out the damaged area and build it back up with TIG welding, then machine/hone/clean to specs which will allow for the plating.
They will plate with electrolysis, and again hone to spec tolerances for piston/ring fitment.
Done.
I just had my 2-Stroke Kawasaki 250cc MX engine re-plated to factory specs with Nikasil actually, and its like new. I used a company in the U.K. but Millennium Technologies are very well known in the MX scene! Everyone uses them, even the Pro's - so I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
Good luck!