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I found a local 1999 E55. It's white. It's not perfect, but everything works. Took it to a MBZ privateer and they did a Pre-Purchase Inspection.
Here are all the things wrong with it:
Chromed Monoblocks are flaking (are these chrome wheels stock?)
Left Front Wheel has a bend in it (found a local shop that quoted $30 to straighten it)
Power Steering leaks a bit ($500)
Rear main seal weeping (this makes me sad, also)
Front Brakes need done (rotors and pads) $450 plus labor
Rear ball joints need done $600
140K miles, new coil packs, valve covers gaskets have been done.
I bought it, drove it around over the weekend and LOVE it. Smooth, gobs of power and just fun.
Last night I filled it up with gas, and parked it overnight.
On my way to work this morning, I was on the highway for about 15 mins (it was fully warmed up); exit the freeway, and at my turn gave it a bunch of gas.
The warning triangle light came on, check engine light came on, and it started to lose power and run really rough.
I pulled over and shut it off. Waited a minute and started it again. (Temps were right in the middle of the gauge). Seemed to run fine after that but the check engine light stayed on.
I drove it about a mile more to catch a car pool ( I was going to show off my car!) but parked it and caught a ride instead.
What do I do next? Get a scan tool and look for codes?
thanks!
Nick
Last edited by swissarmychains; 06-10-2019 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: added pics
An OBD2 scan tool will read the Motor Electronics but not all of the digital modules. For ability to read and reset all digital modules, you'll need a STAR system and use the 38-pin connector under the hood.
The issue with your car could be as simple as the MAF sensor, a crank or camshaft position sensor, TPS, or accelerator pedal sensor. Scan it before you just start throwing parts at it. If you get a good scan tool it will pay for itself in just three or four uses. Your description matched what happened to my car when the MAF sensor faulted. Again, scan before you throw parts at the car.
FWIW, when I purchased my first MB, the W210 E55, I bought a STAR knockoff. The first time I ran a quick test I literally had dozens of stored failure codes! Erased them all, drove the car for a week, then re-scanned for current codes. Be advised the iCarSoft 980 for the Mercedes will not read the W210 E55 (I have both and can vouch for this info). works fine for a quick read of my W211 E55 but not the W210 E55. You'll have to step up to the next level. Hopefully Kajtek will chime in; he's a good source of information on scan tools.
If you haven't visited the other forum benzworld, it has a fantastic stickies section in the W210 sub-forum with multiple DIY posts. A few of them are mine. Lots of great info on this forum but you have to know how to use the advanced search feature to locate that info.
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FWIW, when I purchased my first MB, the W210 E55, I bought a STAR knockoff. The first time I ran a quick test I literally had dozens of stored failure codes! Erased them all, drove the car for a week, then re-scanned for current codes. Be advised the iCarSoft 980 for the Mercedes will not read the W210 E55 (I have both and can vouch for this info). works fine for a quick read of my W211 E55 but not the W210 E55. You'll have to step up to the next level. Hopefully Kajtek will chime in; he's a good source of information on scan tools.
I'm shopping for a scan tool now, can you recommend one, under $300 say, for the 1999 w210? I think I want one that is 38 pin compatible, right?
Or will a good ODBII work ok?
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
If you haven't visited the other forum benzworld, it has a fantastic stickies section in the W210 sub-forum with multiple DIY posts. A few of them are mine. Lots of great info on this forum but you have to know how to use the advanced search feature to locate that info.
One thing to mention is that the battery is likely due for a replacement. It's probably 5 years old, and feels like it cranks a little slowly.
Obviously I'll take it in to have it properly tested.
One thing to mention is that the battery is likely due for a replacement. It's probably 5 years old, and feels like it cranks a little slowly.
Obviously I'll take it in to have it properly tested.
Solar BA-5 battery tester. ~$50 on Amazon. When my battery tests at 50% of new, I replace. FWIW, I check my batteries at every oil change; adds an extra five minutes to the service. Peace of mind and I can test on my schedule without having to miss work.
When I like Solar battery tester, we had reports that batteries on W210 can last up to 17 years, so at 5 I would test well before replacing.
W210 does not allow troubleshooting via OBD plug. You need 38 pins for it.
At this time I think MaxiEcu is hard to beat. They have US sellers on ebay and made W210 packages.
MB never chromed their wheels, but couple decades ago, chrome was prestige in US, so lot of dealers did chrome MB wheels on new cars. The quality is as you experienced.
Most of member post on this and twin benzworld forum and depends on the section, one is better than the other.
W210 section on benzworld over the years had higly educated members, who brought wealth of knowledge and organized it in stickies. Really good starting point and you will not have to deal with Plutoe.
Than when it comes to AMG, - JOE55 is not only great contributor, but good to be around as well.
Paint looks great on the picture and I hope in real as well. This is the main point I observe when buying used MB.
Everything else is easy fixable.
Enjoy new drive.
Thanks for the help this far, it's much appreciated!
Couple of updates:
I did the reset of the ECU, which made the check engine light go off. Car runs fine, big power and I really love it so far.
A few issues to address of course, but so far, I'm happy with it!
That's called an ECU SNEAKY reset,
1) Turn the ignition key to the on (position 2), without starting the car.
2) Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold 10 seconds.
3) Turn the key to off position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4) Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
ZAYED,,
I reached out to iCarsoft to find what I need to read codes from my 38 pin 1999 e55, I'm posting this here in case someone finds it helpful!
Has anyone here used the iCarsoft reader? Wondering how it works compared to one of the STAR systems you see for sale out of China- specifically looking for STAR Xentry diagnostics.
The E55 Monoblocks sell for good money if they're in nice shape. If you like them, they're worth getting restored.
I had Riteway Wire & Wheel (in the East Bay, so not too far from you) redo a set of Monoblocks for me for my wagon and they did a great job. They're not cheap and only take cash/check. I paid $860 to have mine redone in the correct silver with a polished lip and they looked new afterwards. The turn around was only a couple of days and I had just dropped them off. All of the wheels were rashed/bent when I dropped them off.
Pretty much impossible to break a 210/208 AMG. The trans is bulletproof, it mostly likely could go without a flush throughout its lifetime, but I would not recommend it. No point in speaking about the engine.
Sounds like a potentially failing fuel pump to me. Rest assured your problem is minor my friend. GL!
Back then, MB did not chrome wheels. If it came with chrome, the dealership or someone had them chromed. Research hydrogen embrittlement. MB didn't do it for safety reasons. Not sure if they offer it now but I don't think I've ever seen an MB come with chrome wheels from the factory.
So the check engine light has gone out. It seems that it comes on if I give it FULL throttle (but have not tested this ... ahem... thoroughly).
I got my iCarsoft reader but have not played with it yet.
My first post, my first Mercedes, my first AMG.
.
Last night I filled it up with gas, and parked it overnight.
On my way to work this morning, I was on the highway for about 15 mins (it was fully warmed up); exit the freeway, and at my turn gave it a bunch of gas.
The warning triangle light came on, check engine light came on, and it started to lose power and run really rough.
I pulled over and shut it off. Waited a minute and started it again. (Temps were right in the middle of the gauge). Seemed to run fine after that but the check engine light stayed on.
I drove it about a mile more to catch a car pool ( I was going to show off my car!) but parked it and caught a ride instead.
What do I do next? Get a scan tool and look for codes?
thanks!
Nick
Nick,
Congratulations on your purchase. Does a “bunch of gas” mean half-throttle, full-throttle (to the floor, but without depressing the switch), or hard to the floor?
Congratulations on your purchase. Does a “bunch of gas” mean half-throttle, full-throttle (to the floor, but without depressing the switch), or hard to the floor?
I'm going with "hard to the floor".
After doing the reset i have driven it somewhat more gently and the issue has not returned.
I'm going with "hard to the floor".
After doing the reset i have driven it somewhat more gently and the issue has not returned.
Okay. The symptoms aren't identical, but I'll mention a problem that I had a few years ago. If I pushed the pedal hard into the floor (depressing the switch under the pedal), the engine would not respond. I would end up having to pull over, because I had no ability to rev the engine/accelerate. Once pulled over, I would shut it off, restart it, and then the problem would go away. It's similar to how you have to reboot Windows 10 when it acts up. The issue was the pedal position sensor, which was an easy piece to replace. Just a thought for you. Best of luck.
06-10-2019, 01:20 PM
The issue was the pedal position sensor, which was an easy piece to replace. Just a thought for you. Best of luck.
