Gonna try resetting ECU/Tranny....let's see what happens.
 

Bottom line is I drove her back from Kleemann in Co Springs over 700 miles at smooth highway speeds. Cory said this car set up the system with granny settings. He told me that if I disconnected the negative terminal overnight, then hammered it for about 300 miles.....real hard. She would setup the motor and tranny with a more performance aspect.

Couldn't hurt......will let you know what I find out with it.

I do this quite a bit when I want to test out changes I make. It really does make a difference. My tranny "snaps" into gears when I shift using M or S. It has a very quick shift.

Also, I find that it changes the behaviour in S mode quite a bit. It holds higher RPMs and initial throttle response is quicker. (or maybe it's all in my head.. who knows..) It sure is fun going through the procedure though.. :)

I disconnect overnight, go to my local "test track" and run repeatedly from a deadstop at WOT until I run out of road.

OK, I know the computer has to learn your driving behavior and that it takes about 300 miles. Is this a constant learning curve? If you have it taught for Granny mode what would happen if you simply drove hard for 300 miles after that without reseting the computer? The computer learning thing is a little confusing. What happens if you reset the computer, drive hard for 300 miles so you can have performance fun and then get caught it granny traffic for the next 1000 miles (such rush hour work traffic for a couple of week)?

According to an article I read awhile back it takes 40 up or downshifts to change the program not 300 miles. I also had the dealer reset my ecu when the shifts seems lazy and it seemed to make a huge difference. Try driving the heck out of for few blocks that seems to make the same change to me.

Supposedly, the following procedure works with any "drive by wire" vehicle _without_ having to disconnect the battery:

1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.

2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.

3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.

4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.

I've tried it once and it seemed to work, but there seems to be no substitute for slammin' the throttle and letting the system learn by itself. :) Welcome others experience.

Wow, worth a shot. Thanks!!

Thanks for the heads up...I will try that tonight...

Anyone else try re-setting their computer this way?

I have been disconnecting the battery and it's a pain in the butt. I also experienced a situation where the windows didn't work properly when you open and close the doors for about 15 minutes. Needed to re-set those too to get em working again.

Thanks for this tip!! I will try this method the next time I have to do the reset. This is definitely much less painful than having to pull the battery wires. :y

Victor,

I am curious to know if doing the throttle trick gives you the same result as disconnecting the battery. I have tried it and didn't find any difference. I have not tried disconnecting the battery yet, too much to reset.

I am scheduled to do another ECU tune in the next day or two. I'll try it and will see what happens.

I tried this trick today and works great. No doubt shift points are more aggressive and shifts more firm. I'll bet this will help quarter times by doing it just before runs. :y

This is the quickest and easiest way to do it. Just do some firm starts and floor it in different gears when you get moving. It should take less than a couple of minutes on a clear road.

I did this to my neighbor's S-class and he thought it had had a tune-up.

Disconnecting the battery erases your previous driving mode, but letting the computer learn your new style of driving is more fun.

Is this any different from hammering the car for a few minutes where the adaptive tranny re-sets the shift points and holds your gears much longer for a while, until it realises that your granny is back, driving the car to church on Sunday...?

ECU ALERT: I recently ran my battery flat by pressing the REST button too many times to blow the smell out of the aircon, without the engine and alternator running in between... :crazy:
MB came in with a new battery and replaced it. I had to then go to the dealership to re-load a whole heap of data lost in the process. Apparently it is a normal thing when you disconnect a battery.
If you have done it, your ECU and everything else that's electronic now runs on about 40% of it's previous "intelligence". Go to the dealer to re-boot.

What is the verdict on this... does it work?

BTW -- have you ran your car yet? What were your times? We are pushing about the same power and I'm just curious. Thanks.

Hell, Yeah it works.
No more of that hesitation off the line, definite stronger growl off the line, more responsive throttle, the works.
Best 10 second ever spent.:zoom:

Thanks for the tip.:bow:

2003 CL 55 Silver/Black

I've done this several times and it definitely works...just read the above thread and do exactly what the instructions say...make sure you wait the 2 minutes, I wait about 2.5 just to make sure. If you're wondering if it worked on not then you didn't to it right. You should notice a MASSIVE difference unless you are hard on the car daily and therefore the ECU has already adaptively set itself up this way, most people don't.

When I first did it I was shocked! car was peeling out all over the place, just busting it through 1st 2nd and 3rd everytime.

LOL..... because of all that's been happening with JakPro's TCU/MHP situation, I thought this was an update, but when I clicked on the thread, it turned out to be 3 years old :)

I have a question about this.

What is the "ON" position? Are we talking the RUN position? and not the steering unlock position where in everything in the car basically comes on ?

Also ... I read in another forum, that the pedal should be held to the floor but DO NOT PUSH THE KICK DOWN SWITCH.

What do you think about this?

I was having some hesitation/slow shifting issues, so I did this and it seemed to clear it up nicely.

:y

ON position is before run position. our car have 3 position. ON the middle one first one being off. Only the SRS light is on in the ON position.
I though you had to press the kick down feature.

LOL, ya know, I was one of the first to post on this years ago and we've gone round and round so much that I honestly forgot which position it is supposed to be in.

I don't mess with it much anymore as I have a Star and just wipe tranny adapts with Star.

I know FOR SURE it has nothing to do with "not touching" that kickdown switch at the bottom of the pedal so don't worry bout that. Hold her allll the way down.

Biggest thing (IMO) is not to open the door or disturb the car after the reset. Just sit there for 3 mins. If you have a watch, you can time it and you'll here a "click" under the dash. Not sure what exactly happens but she's a whole new beast after that click.

Who would have thought that resetting those tranny adapts would make such a huge impact.

I've read both ways ... one was adamant not to click the switch. Don't know the reason why.

I tried it in the "ON" position and the "RUN" position and it seemed to work in the run position for be (The one right before starting the car)

Maybe I did something else.

Also I got out of the car and came back. :eek:

I hadn't even thought about using Star to clear the tranny adaptations until I read your post. I'm curious, though: why do you prefer using Star?

The tranny reset can be done with SDS and like Victor said it makes the shifting SNAP into gear.:bow:

Remember if you drive a car like a pu$$y it will be one especially with the adaptive properties of many new ECU/TCU's.:D