Pics of Boost, IAT, 20lb battery, methly/H20 kit, Cut outs, etc...
 

Attached are some pics of the install location of several items

1) Ashtray for electronic cut outs & methly/h20 kit
2) Location for boost & IAT gauge
3) both guages -- enough room to pull out for monitoring...not for rice
4) Boost gauge
5) IAT gauge

More pics....

Last batch of pics...taps for IAT/boost gauge, pics of Iforge Daytona's w/ 4.5 inch rear lip...and hood heat shield trim to allow air to escape from the engine bay through the black stock hood vents

Nice pics...timely too...Venting underhood looks like a great idea.I was trying to figure out how to get this car to cool down after shut off. Nice stealthy installs...cut outs are pretty cool looking too !

I am curious, what kind of IAT do you see? as compared to ambient?

Did you relocate the battery to the center of the trunk from the side?

very stealth. I'm actually considering installing both the boost and IAT gauges in the a-pillar. And maybe even a NOS gauge :v:

Do it, Do it, Do it. :y

Any chance by removing the rear rubber strip on the bonnet you risk getting electrics wet?

Yesterday it was 93 out and I started up my car and saw 93-95F IATs. I drove it 4 miles (no boost) and the IATs stayed at 95-98F and the engine coolant temp was fully hot. I drove another 3 miles and the IATs creeped to 102F and just stayed there. I was parked waiting in a drive though with the AC blasting and it stayed between 102-105F. Then I went to another place and parked the car for 20 min. Came out IATs were 130 and after 10 minutes of driving it would not go lover than 110F - about 15F over ambient.

On the boost (one run) the IATs go to 140-150 and back. IATs do not significantly drop off until the car is moving at about 40+

The original battery has a strip that you pull to tighten it....it was already tight but when I removed it I had to tighten the 20lb battery and doing so caused the batter to shift a bit to the pasenger side.

As far as getting electronics wet are you referring to the engine bay or where the methly kit is?

Nice install although i would prefer a digital readout of the Boost / IATS in the ashtray area ?

Can you not tap the cars OBDII data for boost and IAT's to feed a simple LED display...? Wouldn't that be neat - and easy!

Yeah digital would probably be better for all of the gauges in retrospect. The ash tray houses the electronic cut out trigger and the methly/h20 trigger with 2 lights -- red it is armed. green the bottle is dry.

potentially an option for digital read out for IAT....

http://www.scangauge.com/

What are your thoughts on this one as a boost gauge? I can't find any others that look nice? Does anyone know if this one is compatible with our cars?

http://shop.edoperformance.com/index...th=395_763_765

This is the one that I ordered:


http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd375.htm

Isaac,

Nice job on the install..

When the shop tapped the intake manifolds for the meth injection nozzles did they do it near the bottom (closest to the supercharger outlet y-pipe) ??

The reason I mention this is because the IAT sensor is located in the middle of the Y-pipe. If you cool the intake charge and the IAT sensor doesnt see the modified temp you probably wont see any performance benefit.

My nozzles are being plumbed at the bottom of the intake manifolds closest to where the clamps are. I am putting my boost and intercooler dual temp gauge into the ashtry area along with my water injection readout. This makes everything visible while driving but also keeps them hidden away when you dont want to see them.

The dakota digital gauges are small enough to fit in there and look very nice.

All in all, they did a nice job on your install!! Good luck on the dyno!

This is the dual temperature digital gauge that I have.. 1 probe gets plumbed pre-intercooler, and 1 jets plumbed post intercooler.

http://www.andial.com/content/930/gauges.htm

What about using the exsisting IAT sensor for the IAT gauges. Rather than tap a hole somewhere in the intake system for another sensor use the stock IAT sensor. Maybe tap into the sensor's wires....there is probably only a few.

I'm sure this is impossible for some reason.....just a thought.

Thats exactly what I was thinking ...

This looks like a real easy install into the ashtray area ... you just zap it into the OBD2 slot and your done - no need to tap new sensors .... would be handy to have the cars OBD2 slot to have a slave female connector to allow this connection of the meter to be behind the vehicle trim...? So from the outside the trim and cars OBD2 slot will look 100% stock.

Nothing a little solder and wires cannot fix... :)

woah awesome! Can you give me some details of what im seeing under the car at that dump pipe? it simply bypasses the rear muffler using some type of actuator?

Whats the odyssey batt weigh next to thye stocky?

great stuff!

Yep those are dump pipes that bypass the mufflers however I would still expect that 85% of the flow would probably go thru the mufflers...just a guess. Its LOUD though when its open. The red switch in the ashtray is what opens and closes it electronically -- just 3 seconds.

The oddessy batter is like 21 lbs, the stocker if I recall was 54 lbs.

great! Does the bypass valve seal very well? i know some of the older style bypass vavles tended to leak and still let out some extra noise when closed.. What brand are the bypass valves/where can i buy them?

cheers!

Evrything looks good but Did YOU CAR become any FASTER ???:)

The jury is out if it became faster. Correcting to STD/SAE rwhp levels it appears that I gained 11rwhp from the methly. Last year "open" pipes illustrated a 11rwhp gain -- all at the high rpm levels. I had the shop also test the open pipes vs. closed 3 weeks ago and they said it didn't produce any measurable gains...I was not there so I am going to test the car out AGAIN:

1. No meth/closed
2. Meth / closed
3. meth / open
4. non meth/open

will take 4 runs but I can probably infer everything in 3 runs...then I will test H20 another day....

The cut outs did go bad on me....18 months from install they got raspy and it sucked. I just had them replaced. I got them from www.fcct.net and initially from http://www.rpmracinginc.com/index2.html

goto media>video's>CLS55 that is the difference in sound - closed vs. open...