Lowered E's need allignment help...
 

I have lowering links and MB says cant allign car. NTB says don't have the specs for AMG's. Then Merchants says sure. My camber is way out of wack by almost 2 degrees thats why my inner tires wear out superfast. But they say there is no camber adjustment. Does anyone else have this problem? Do they make camber shims? camber kits? Tired of spending $$$ on friggin tires.

I don't go to MB for alignment. Specialty shops can set to any numbers you want. The camber bolts are about $175 and only adjust a small amount (at best I think a couple of degrees).

Hello littll Bro... Remember you talking about modding the upper bracket to allow more adjustment. Email me so that I can get the picture again. I need to make a set. I dont get enough adjustment. 5000miles and I had to replace the fronts. Wore down to the steel fibres this time and scared the crap out of the little one.

I'll probably step real lightly back into the scene.:)

Nice. Perfect timing.

The picture isn't correct, since the piece shown at 1 is bolted onto the s shaped arm. It is that piece that has the bolt holes. It is the piece that has the knuckle on it, so it may be a pain to fab, but you could maybe shave the holes and slide the bolt locations?

What are your numbers? If you're running -2 degrees of camber, but your toe is zero, you should get pretty good wear.

Where do you live? If in the SF Bay Area, try Freeman Frame & Alignment in San Jose.

x1 for freeman he is the old school guru

The closest we can get even with the camber kit is -3 degrees. Of course I hit a stupid pot hole and on our lovely bay area 880 freeway and knocked the crap out of the toe.

Jangy-son we were looking at the top knuckle plate. It looks somewhat straight forward. But I've been burned, no I'll say scourced before. So what I'll do is order a set from MB and slot the holes and see how it works.

Hey where are those Jangified wheels? Any issues?

No they can't. Camber bolts can only adjust 1/3 deg per bolt.If they could do "a couple degrees " ie. 2 degrees, we would not have any problems!

So guys is this problem the reult of driving the car lowered ??? Also...I don't think its a great idea to elongate any holes in suspension mounting areas is it ???

Yeah, I've been going there for 12 years. He aligned my E500 about 4 years ago. He does custom suspension work. My car's a daily driver, so tire wear is important to me. I had him set my camber at -0.5 front, and -1 rear. I'm currently running PS2's, have 17K miles on them, and they're wearing evenly

So, you get the ones I mean? I don't guarantee anything, but I think it will work. Looks simple enough.

My rims are done and ready. The car is what is down!!

Yes, camber is due to lowering.

Is your car lowered,if so how much?

You think I'd be talkin to my little bro if I wanted a guarantee:rolf: :rolf:

We'll see how it goes. On tuesday I go order them. Why is your beast out of commission?

Oh by the teh way little brotherpsst I've decided to keep the cams

Yes, it's lowered. Not sure how much, but it looks like this:

UPDATE: went to a custom shop and 4 hours later they got it right. caster adj was way out. camber is now only out about half degree. after a road force wheel balance its like a brand new car. it rides sooo smooth i forgot how good this car drives.

I'm still down from the RennTech Stage 1 install at creative. It apparently takes a month to check a pulley out?

good grief...wtf is their problem? have you at least been given any excuses? i would have shown up with a flatbed and a summons by now.

THATS WAY LAME!:X :X :X :X are they paying for a rental car?

Sure, plenty of excuses.

They aren't paying for anything, much less a rental.

way to hijack my thread boyz!!! j/k. so have you seen the end of the crank yet? is the woodruff key/keyway mangled at all? is their any damage to the tip of the crank? curious minds want to know.

LOL, since it is your topic. The crank is absolutely strong. On the other hand, the metal the dampner is made of is NOT. That is actually a good thing, and probably designed in.

The end of the crank looks fine. There is a buildup of metal (slight) from the dampner (likely when it was dancing) that needs to be cleaned off.
From there, we do not know how easy it will be. It could be as simple as replacing the seal and key or as complicated to finding other problems past the seal or even not having enough room to do the work. I am personally not a tech, and I am hoping that the damage is simply to the dampner. However, I want it checked out, just in case. I am hoping that the face of the motor doesn't need to be removed to access the damage or the key "slot". It may take quite a bit of work getting the metal off, since it is basically fused on, but we will see.
That is the scoop.