You don't have to vent it....you have a choice.

Secondly, I ran this on previous vehicles for 15k miles and no smells or anything else. All you have to do is clean it about every 3k.

Right on jrocket..

I think you will need a check valve. If for some reason you forget to check it or the catch fills, you dont want that oil getting sucked back in the TB.

The reason I installed the catch can was because oil was getting sucked in my S/C and IC. I know some oil is normal, but not this much.


Take a look...

http://www.renntechc32.com/oil/index.html#8

Yep,that seems like an excessive amount of oil.I could be wrong though.

A panovac system is actuall old and quite crude in todays technology but it works well.You could run the lines from the bottom of the catch can down to the back side of the cats and it should be ok.But then I dont really see the point of the catch can then,just run the lines from valve covers down to the back side of the cats?I might not be thinking clearly right now though.

I know its an old thread but how about one of these style on each side would that work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-S...spagenameZWDVW

Thanks
Justin

Interesting to see this mentioned on mbworld, as its popular with big inch domestic motors that mostly run big open headers. I've messed around with a few different PCV/Cranckcase vent systems on this car and this was the first method I tried. It was the most functional, simple, and clean aproach to venting the cranckcase I could think of. I was told that any street exhaust shy of open headers wouldn't work. I tried anyway with the pan-evac valve that moroso makes, and everyone was right. It threads into an exhaust bung at a 45 degree in the exhaust section with most velocity to create a scavanging vacuum effect. I mounted the line to a vac/psi gauge found that I could only make about 1-2in vacuum at 5000RPM and about 1-4psi of pressure anything below that. I've got pictures of the setup if anyone is interested. Failure for a street vehicle where you would be sending hot exhuast gas into the crankcase 90% of the time. So I'm pretty certain it needs to be mounted at the collector on an open header. It would have been awesome if it did work though. :rolleyes:

Do you know if anyone used this kit or will it work well?

I know I'm bumping an old thread, but what did you do with the bigger hose that comes off the drivers side valve cover and plugs into the accordian hose between the drivers side airbox and the y-pipe?

Remains connected, only the two lower breather pipes are connected to the catch tank.

I am using a closed catch tank system like DSC's,
was the conclusion that an open system was not suitable as use need the crank case pressure/vacuum connected to the TB......it would eliminate the need to have to check the catch tank level?

I understand that but can't oil travel through the other breather as well? Hence my question.

If your intresed in doing a crank case evac setup let me know, Thats how mine is. I still use a catch can in my set up.

Correct. While under normal operating conditions (ie. vacuum), air is drawn into the crankcase through the larger hose. At WOT, excess crank pressure is pushed out that same hose.

LOl You were answering the same time. Neon, did you run an electric air pump as a evac pump? Racetronix makes a clean p-n-p harness for this.

Old school, Ties in the exh for the negative pressure, creates better ring seal, makes more power and keeps octane robing oil out of the intake. This should come as no suprise, Its a low buck mod.

me too was surprised reading that he didn't do anything to that hose (letter C) saying that it supplies fresh air ..

it was much time ago but I remember I checked under load and it was blowing, not sucking air ... so, it was the first I just sealed !

Yes it does blow crank case preasure, so not sure if sealing it up is a good idea?

my air filters did not get change for a over 10000miles and one of the filters had a bit of oil on it, so it would be a good idea to also catch the vapors.

Yea definitely interested! Let me know
One valve cover has two breathers and the other has one. Do you really think plugging the extra one will have detrimental effects?

yes, if there's no output at all it is bad.

your options depend also on the particular TB you have: not all TBs have an inlet for vapours !

unfortunately did not get to doing it yet, but after installling the 80mm TB I considered indeed the other option of using that intake outlet as the main one (so, without any T connected to the TB anymore)
... after filtering done by a thing like this

:D

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/4...elcatchcan.jpg

...is EVAC this thing, right ... :eek:



http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7...ombafumias.jpg

Yes, that it. The only issue would be that these were designed for use with open headers. If you are running a closed exhasut system, you would need to monitor the the pressure in the crank case and make sure you are not adding to it. For example, it might work at WOT, but actually create pressure at part throttle. Not saying it's a bad idea, but you have to verify that it is helping.

What exactly does this do for our cars? Yeah, I'm a slow...

as I understand it, that black hose connected to the exhaust does nothing bad as far as it originates from a filtering can

but if it just originates from the valve cover, you'll get an old time 2-stroke smell :smash:

The dc3 dual is better >> http://www.saikoumichi.com/

Where are the outlet lines routed? Are they used to relieve crankcase pressure by routing to the exhaust, or simply connected back to the hose going into the throttle body?

quick question guys.. what is the pro and con about just blocking off the outlet from the valve covers completely? i don't see the engine building a lot of pressure there.. I tried doing it tonight by hand and after a bit, still no pressure. even raving the engine up. any thoughts??

thanks

I would not do it