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Old 06-10-2015, 01:23 PM
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Crank Shaft Position Sensor DIY with PICS

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Old 09-28-2015, 10:39 PM
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Any pictures what screws I have to remove to get the air filter box off? On my E320 all I had to do was lift the whole box up
Old 09-28-2015, 10:41 PM
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CLS55 AMG
Originally Posted by Mackhack
Any pictures what screws I have to remove to get the air filter box off? On my E320 all I had to do was lift the whole box up
All of the torx screws that affix the air filter boxes to the engine bay. These screws are all the same sizes so you shouldn't run into any confusion. I would recommend replacing the engine air filters at the same time since they will be coming off regardless. I'll try to get pictures for you in a little bit.
Old 09-28-2015, 10:45 PM
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Thank you. Air filters were replaced at the last service. But the picture would be appreciated.
Old 09-28-2015, 11:13 PM
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CLS55 AMG
Originally Posted by Mackhack
Thank you. Air filters were replaced at the last service. But the picture would be appreciated.
Excuse the dirty engine bay. My airmatic struts just went out recently so I've had to prioritize fixing that over not degreasing my engine. I've circled all of the screws you need to remove.





Old 09-28-2015, 11:32 PM
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Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
Old 09-29-2015, 08:33 PM
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is this the correct one ? or is there a better quality merc/oem one ?

Amazon.com: Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor: Automotive Amazon.com: Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor: Automotive
Old 09-29-2015, 08:35 PM
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CLS55 AMG
Originally Posted by new55
is this the correct one ? or is there a better quality merc/oem one ?

Amazon.com: Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor: Automotive
Yes that is an OEM replacement
Old 09-29-2015, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by new55
is this the correct one ? or is there a better quality merc/oem one ?

Amazon.com: Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor: Automotive
That's the one I bought.

I was trying for 35 minutes to get to it. I gave up for today. I thought my E320 is tight but on the E55 I can't even reach the end of the cable where the connector goes into the CPS. I don't even see the screw.

Do I have to go in from beneath?
Old 09-29-2015, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackhack
That's the one I bought.

I was trying for 35 minutes to get to it. I gave up for today. I thought my E320 is tight but on the E55 I can't even reach the end of the cable where the connector goes into the CPS. I don't even see the screw.

Do I have to go in from beneath?
No you need to approach it from the top with the air box removed. First you should unplug the plug from the sensor -- this plug has a heat wrap around the top and is removed by pushing down on the ends. The sensor itself is seated at an angle and is bolted into place with a screw. You will need an E8 female head with around 10" - 12" of extension, as well as a 1/4 ratchet of course. Once you get the screw loose, remove it with your hand so that it does not get lost (it's really easy to drop). Then you need to place the new sensor in the spot where the old one was. This part is tricky because you have to place it by feeling around the area with your hands -- you won't be able to see anything. Once you believe it's in the correct area, place the screw back in and begin tightening it with your 10-12" extension and ratchet. Once that is done plug the plug back in and you should be good to go.
Old 09-29-2015, 09:38 PM
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I removed the filter box and went down the cable with my hand to feel where the screw is but I couldn't reach that far. And because of that I couldn't unplug it either. Now it's too dark ;(
Old 09-30-2015, 10:16 AM
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How did you guys take the Y-Pipe from the TB off? It's secured with a clamp with a little clip/lever on top. I didn't touch it since I never took it off on this engine.

Last edited by Mackhack; 09-30-2015 at 10:22 AM.
Old 09-30-2015, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Mackhack
How did you guys take the Y-Pipe from the TB off? It's secured with a clamp with a little clip/lever on top. I didn't touch it since I never took it off on this engine.
yes, just undo that clamp and it comes right off...
Old 09-30-2015, 10:36 AM
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and make sure you are following the correct cable..it's at the top of the bellhousing it doesn't go underneath the firewall
Old 09-30-2015, 10:45 AM
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There is the thick wiring harness coming from the Engine compartment electrical box going down and splits. The smaller wiring harness is the one that goes to the CPS but I just can't reach the connector.

So how do I open the clamp? Maybe someone has a picture with a quick explanation?
Old 09-30-2015, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackhack
...So how do I open the clamp? Maybe someone has a picture with a quick explanation?
If you have removed the front air tubes, then both air boxes will pop off their rubber mounts (don't need to unscrew anything for this step). Then only the Y-pipe will be holding the whole assembly onto the TB. There is a clip on top and a hidden one underneath. When I did mine I just unclipped the top one then the bottom one came loose. It's a little tricky, so take a close look at how the clip works and you should be able to get it without using any tools. Then the whole Y-pipe and both airboxes come out as one big assembly.
Old 09-30-2015, 08:40 PM
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Thanks. I didn't know and didn't see the one underneath. Let's give it another try. Second time will be much faster in the future
Old 10-01-2015, 09:41 PM
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I tried again today. Epic fail. I just can't get to the connector and unplug it. I don't feel the screw either to place the socket on. I follow the wiring harness coming from the SAM box. It splits. The slit off cable I follow down and that's the end of it.

According to the pictures in post one the screw is at 6 o'clock underneath the connector of the sensor. This makes even less sense.

Who in his right mind positioned this sensor down there instead of on top of the tranny where it's easier to get to it once the air filter is off from the TB?

Last edited by Mackhack; 10-01-2015 at 09:46 PM.
Old 10-01-2015, 10:08 PM
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This is on the top of the bellhousing, where it meets the block. I had to unbolt the sensor before I could unplug it.
Old 10-01-2015, 10:18 PM
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I never had to try to fix something for a week. This is a cluster ****. It's at about 2 o'clock when I would stand in front of the car right?
Old 10-01-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackhack
I never had to try to fix something for a week. This is a cluster ****. It's at about 2 o'clock when I would stand in front of the car right?
Yes you're in the right place. It's not too deep down, you should be able to find it. The head of the cable has a heat shrink around it. Keep at it -- best of luck.
Old 10-01-2015, 11:03 PM
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Does the heat shrink prevents me from seeing the screw and won't allow me to press in the little latch to get the connector off the sensor? Maybe that's the reason I can't really get to it with my hand. I'll try to get straight to the screw with my 18 inch extension.
Old 10-01-2015, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackhack
Does the heat shrink prevents me from seeing the screw and won't allow me to press in the little latch to get the connector off the sensor? Maybe that's the reason I can't really get to it with my hand. I'll try to get straight to the screw with my 18 inch extension.

No it should be unplugged before you attempt to remove the screw with the extension. So try unplugging the cable first, and then feel around with your hand for the screw. You have to go through it using feel alone since it's too dark and cramped to see inside.

Also try positioning yourself behind the driver's fender as opposed to being in front of the car.
Old 10-02-2015, 12:14 AM
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I'm always at the fender with flashlight and my hand down there LOL
Old 10-02-2015, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jawzey
No it should be unplugged before you attempt to remove the screw with the extension.
This is not mandatory.
Old 10-02-2015, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HeissRod
This is not mandatory.

Never said it was...but it makes the job a whole lot easier especially for somebody who has been having trouble with the DIY job.


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