Bean93x

Also, is it possible to buy the Rheotemp 500 through Nye as a common person? I guess I could just put where I work and have it shipped there but is there any other means of purchase?

StarvingArtist

No need to take them out. One of mine was bad, I had to replace it with one from another SC.

elgato

So there is nothing sealing the bearings? When the S/C is engaged does the flow of air go through the bearings? Reason I ask if if air does flow through, how long will the new grease last till it's blown off? And for those that do not have a catch can for oil ingestion, is the oil actually "lubricating" the bearing when it gets sucked in?

StarvingArtist

The bearings are well shielded, mine still had grease at 100K, but there was a residue of ultrafine grit on the backside of my S/C snout. It looked like ripples in sand, but barley noticeable as darker lines.
The car had K&N's when I got it at 50k. I held them up to the sun when I was cleaning them, and decided they were too open. Replaced with OEM. Now I'm thinking that was a wise decision.

kshawn

Check ecstuning.com I purchase my kompressor oil from there.

sexyxe

Any updates from anyone on when the bearings are arriving? If they have been made? Any other replacements? I'll be taking my blower off in the coming months and would like to either replace or regressed my tears as I'm now at 140km/85m.

s14dk

ill take 2 if the order is still going through !

Khan 55

Old post on the loss of the tiny threaded plug but since some are using straight allen keys or angled ball type or stuffing in rags and whatever, I'd use a rag as well. To be extra safe, before starting this service, take a length of electrical wire maybe 2mm thick or 3mm. Wrap it around the length of the allen key ensuring there isn't much spacing between the wounds, as well as maintaining decent length on the outer ends of the allen key. Once done, just use a good charged battery that is not connected to anything and just TOUCH the two ends of that wire as it is wounded on the allen key to the positive and negative terminals of a well charged battery. As I mentioned just touch it twice or thrice but keep your face away and wear gloves when doing this. You will have a magnetic allen key that should stay magnetised for a good half hour maybe or more.

GatorMB

The Bering part number posted above is common for alternator.

The Inner race adapter is special along with the inner seal. When internal lubrication is present the inner shield of the bearing can be pried out and away. But this shield is in place without sealing. hmmm!!!
The internal shield is for oil containment and drainage for oil circulation.

Very Informative thread gents, Lets keep it up.
Best, Gator

PS: An alternator bearing sells for around $2.00

dougz4m

how do you get that SC drain plug back in????

GatorMB

Sorry Folks,

Alternator bearings are all common numbers from the past, 3200 series etc..
I have used the 6203 bearings in industrial three phase motor applications. At one time they were around $2.00 a piece. About 16 years ago.

The bearing thread has been moved and renamed. This remains SC Oil change thread.

All the Best, Gator

Crissus

No, this is not a normal 6203 bearing for 2$/piece...
These are roller bearing types, we need. But lets continue here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ng-source.html

Maverick32

Hey guys, sorry to up a 8 month old thread, but there is a wealth of information here. Just popped over from the C32 section.

2 quick questions:

1. What is the best way to remove the dust caps covering the inner bearings? Do I need to remove the front section of the supercharger (pulling out the rotors?) or can they be removed some other way? I don't want to damage them by prying them off.

2. When I look within on of the rotors (the one that is hollow!) there is a grey paste. What do you suspect that is from? Metal shavings gathering? I can post pictures if that would be more helpful. I'm currently waiting on new gaskets, and I thought I'd do some preventative maintenance if possible while i'm in there.

lseguy

general question: why do people apologize for posting a question/inquiry in a thread that has tons of helpful info? Isnt it MUCH preferred to continue to have that relevant and ongoing information in the same thread, vs creating entirely new threads?

latemodel21

I thought the same : ) it is not like this is a thread that has been idle for 9 years ... it is still a current topic, and I think this is still the current thread.

No need to apologize for the bump ... this is still a relevant thread

Can't say for sure if all of the M113k info is applicable to the M112k SC, but I suspect it is relative to your questions.
1) Yes, you need to remove the rotors (twin screws). You should not even consider removing a dust shield for access.
see here https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6624860

Your bearing refill need to be thoughtful (it is in no way like "packing" front wheel bearing). Here is some info on how they should be filled (that I have come to believe, based on conversations with the bearing manufacturer) .
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6618169
Upon closer inspection, I think you will find all of this info and more is actually in this thread.


2) I suspect the gray goo is oil from your crankcase breather system (that is introduced at the throttle-body); its presence is normal, the volume you are finding might not be however. ... Worth checking, is under your engine oil fill cap; if you have gray goo there as well, then we are probably talking about a coolant breach which is NOT normal (head gasket, etc).

Hope that helps,
Chris

Maverick32

I think it's more of a Canadian thing! haha.

Hey Chris,

Thank you for the links. I mostly want to inspect the bearings to see if they are dry or full of contaminants. However, I'm just hesitant about removing the rotors on a SC that sounds ok when spinning. It's the trade off of doing something preventative vs 'if it ain't broke' kind of mentality.

Does the front snout have RTV as the sealant? There is no gasket listed for the front as far as I remember. I still have MB RTV from the valve cover gasket work I did previously. (quick edit: I saw your post a few pages earlier, mentioning something about a front gasket. If it's not RTV, then I would be worried about ruining that seal with no replacement available).

I haven't seen any oil in the coolant system (oil cap is clean, oil looks good). I did have an intercooler leak (1L/1000KM), but I don't believe that would contribute to this grey goo, since the leak is at the air outlet of the intercooler. Additionally, there is no contaminant on the rotors themselves, just the inside. I'll open it back up tonight and take a picture, just for further analysis.

I appreciate the insight!

latemodel21

The gaskets between the front cover and the gearbox and the gearbox and the rotor housing are the paper type. They are not available from Mercedes (as far as I know). I don't know if the M112k is the same as the m113k, but on the m113k (as I demonstrated in one of the links above) it can be disassembled in such a way that leaves one (front to gearbox) untouched. Just be careful with the other (gearbox to rotor-body) and you should have no issue leaving it in place and re-using it (no RTV required or desired here).

Cheers,
Chris

Maverick32

Ok good to know. For whatever reason both Chrome and Safari don't let me open pictures on this forum (comes up as a black screen).

But I see how you removed the front snout, while leaving the gearbox area still sealed.
I will just be careful when opening it up to avoid any tears.

I will post an update tonight. Thanks Chris!

latemodel21

I have the same issue (black screen) on occasion. If you do a right mouse button click on the picture, you should be able to select "open link in new tab" under those circumstances.

Cheers,
Chris

Maverick32

Wow, that solved the issue!

Maverick32

I attempted to, briefly, to open the front of the SC, but decided against it for now. It's pretty cold outside (about 5F, and about 25 in the garage), so I didn't want to risk breaking a bolt, or something else. I think I will wait until the spring to give it another go, should I believe it needs it.
The rotors spin freely, and completely silently. The rattle I was hearing must be coming from the loose clutch plate.

I opened the rear part of the SC again. The contaminant within the rotor veins was not goopy, but rather a solid stuck to the inside. I managed to gingery scrape it off with a plastic tool, and vacuumed all the pieces out with a small tube. Luckily they came off in rather large chunks.

The pieces are slightly magnetic, with the consistency of wet chalk. Thoughts on whether it is still the oil contaminant?

GatorMB

It could be rotor seals,

I have not opened the supercharger but the looks of that is either PCV sluge or a vein of one of the rotors is coming apart.

The supercharger spins free and bearings feel good then a de-coke of all the crankcase piping is required.
really looks like EGR passages of most modern engines but the W211 has no EGR. But some do have an auxiliary air pump that feeds extra exhaust and oxygen under peak load and engine start up. Burns off excess CO.
You could send it to an oil analyst company that un compounds things so to speak. Not expensive.
The least likely would be a cavitated crankcase pipe that is spilling into the blower.

Best to discover the origin before damaging anything.

Gator

Maverick32

My inclination is that it's not part of the rotors. This was removed from the hollow of the yellow rotor, but the portion that faces the air inlet. It's definitely a deposit. Keep in mind this is not from a w211, but a w203, if that makes any difference (I'm just piggybacking off this thread because it has a significant wealth of SC knowledge not in the w203 section). I believe the secondary air pump sends air directly into the engine, by-passing the SC via some valves that sit in front of the SC.

It could be oil mix with super-fine shavings, or something getting blown into the rotor hollow. I think you're right, that I will have to send it to a lab to get it checked out.

latemodel21

I tend to suspect that it is as you have guessed, from the crankcase. I like the idea of having it checked out by a lab. It seems like an excessive amount of material to be coming from the crankcase, did you mention the mileage on the motor already? (didn't notice). Did you take a pic when it was still on/in the rotor hollow?

I just went out to my shop and pulled an M112k SC off the shelf that I removed at about 140,000 miles (input shaft failure) and as you can see, there is very little, if any, accumulation in the rotor hollows (and the snout is pretty clean as well).

On a side note, hadn't looked at the intake side of an m112k SC in a while and now I see why you were asking about dust shields (I assumed you were talking about the shields that are integral to the bearing) ... I would still say that they probably should be left in place and the rotor/gearbox assy should be withdrawn when you get to re-greasing the bearings.

Hope that helps....

and do keep us updated,
Chris

StarvingArtist

Is it road grime getting past your air filters. Do you run k&n.