AZN Optics 194 LEDs for W211
#351
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#352
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2006 E55, 1997 Mustang Cobra Conv
Another happy customer here!
First off the 194 city lights are a great match to the HIDs! And the 38mm License plate festoons are a prefect fit!
I'll be ordering some of the 36mm festoons for the trunk cargo lights (I believe that's the right size) and will later tackle some of the other interior lights. BUT wanted to know how well the 1156 Amber for the front turn signals are working? I see you have a separate listing for Mercedes w/ IC. Is there anything else that needs to be wired or is it all on the unit's board? Do you have any video's of them?
Also, which bulbs are for the rear turn signals? (w211 '06 e55)
First off the 194 city lights are a great match to the HIDs! And the 38mm License plate festoons are a prefect fit!
I'll be ordering some of the 36mm festoons for the trunk cargo lights (I believe that's the right size) and will later tackle some of the other interior lights. BUT wanted to know how well the 1156 Amber for the front turn signals are working? I see you have a separate listing for Mercedes w/ IC. Is there anything else that needs to be wired or is it all on the unit's board? Do you have any video's of them?
Also, which bulbs are for the rear turn signals? (w211 '06 e55)
#353
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The ones with the IC signal unit are straight plug and play with normal flashing speed.
As for your rear signals, I believe those are integrated units that cannot be swapped out.
As for your rear signals, I believe those are integrated units that cannot be swapped out.
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2006 E55, 1997 Mustang Cobra Conv
#355
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LEDs won't look good for your fogs due to it being a halogen reflector housing. We experimented with this and created a few test models, but when we looked at it, it honestly looked like crap with all the light scatter and zero throw distance. Needless to say, we scrapped the project as per our zero tolerance policy towards carrying something that looks like crap.
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2006 E55, 1997 Mustang Cobra Conv
LEDs won't look good for your fogs due to it being a halogen reflector housing. We experimented with this and created a few test models, but when we looked at it, it honestly looked like crap with all the light scatter and zero throw distance. Needless to say, we scrapped the project as per our zero tolerance policy towards carrying something that looks like crap.
#357
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You can put HIDs in fogs. It's low enough that you're not going to be blinding anyone. I'd stick with 35W though to prevent melting housing. As for the whitest halogen bulbs, from our testing, Philips Diamond Visions are the ones that comes closest to sniffing pure white kelvin levels that HIDs can produce.
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
You can put HIDs in fogs. It's low enough that you're not going to be blinding anyone. I'd stick with 35W though to prevent melting housing. As for the whitest halogen bulbs, from our testing, Philips Diamond Visions are the ones that comes closest to sniffing pure white kelvin levels that HIDs can produce.
Just make sure you buy them from a reputable source. I bought the Diamond Visions for my fogs and I'm pretty sure they're knock-offs, because they're not white by any stretch.
#359
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This is true unfortunately. As Diamond Visions are not sold in US, and due to their popularity, there are lots of knock-offs out there online.
#360
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Are you sure Diamond Vision isn't sold in the US? I'm fairly certain I bought some locally last year from Napa AutoParts.
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#362
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Hmm....could have been. I no longer have the packaging. I believe you recommended whatever I purchased earlier in this thread.
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
How is everyone's bulbs holding up? One of mine went out and my car is far from a daily driver so I'm a bit dismayed that one is gone already. Looking for options. Thanks.
#364
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According to my records, your order was from back in 2011 so you had our older V2 model. These were not shielded from current surges which occurs on some vehicles. Basically if a current surge hits the socket, it causes a heat spike which could compromise the solder on the resistor converting it to liquid state. Then with engine vibration and gravity, components can separate. This is true for all open circuitry LEDs, but we've taken steps in our new V3 model to mitigate low-mid level surges. As for why some vehicles suffer from this electrical issues and some don't, hard to pinpoint, but typically low battery, alternator, pulley, AC, aftermarket audio/video tap, etc can contribute. The only way to really shield the electronics though is to wire in pulse resistors to act as a surge protector. Similar concept to why you plug your tv/computer to a surge protector instead of just your wall socket.
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According to my records, your order was from back in 2011 so you had our older V2 model. These were not shielded from current surges which occurs on some vehicles. Basically if a current surge hits the socket, it causes a heat spike which could compromise the solder on the resistor converting it to liquid state. Then with engine vibration and gravity, components can separate. This is true for all open circuitry LEDs, but we've taken steps in our new V3 model to mitigate low-mid level surges. As for why some vehicles suffer from this electrical issues and some don't, hard to pinpoint, but typically low battery, alternator, pulley, AC, aftermarket audio/video tap, etc can contribute. The only way to really shield the electronics though is to wire in pulse resistors to act as a surge protector. Similar concept to why you plug your tv/computer to a surge protector instead of just your wall socket.
I ordered some off Amazon, figure if bulbs are going to burn out prematurely, might as well save half buying them.
#366
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Thanks for the reply. Guess where it states in the very first post the average lifespan is 50,000 hrs, I'm on the lower end of that scale..... with perhaps 150 hrs tops.
I ordered some off Amazon, figure if bulbs are going to burn out prematurely, might as well save half buying them.
I ordered some off Amazon, figure if bulbs are going to burn out prematurely, might as well save half buying them.
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#370
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Should be our 1157 Bayonet LEDs with integrated flasher IC. http://www.aznoptics.com/index.php?m...products_id=63
We've already had several w211s using these with no issues.
We've already had several w211s using these with no issues.
#371
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Any chance you have them in hyper white
And Super Bright 68-SMD 360-degree shine H7 LED Bulbs
One pair Xenon White 360 degrees shine 24-SMD Error Free 2825 W5W T10 LED bulbs with built-in CAN-bus controllers.
And Super Bright 68-SMD 360-degree shine H7 LED Bulbs
One pair Xenon White 360 degrees shine 24-SMD Error Free 2825 W5W T10 LED bulbs with built-in CAN-bus controllers.
#372
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We don't have any in white currently, but can get them made in our next production cycle mid september.
As for H7 LED bulbs, we experimented around those type of LEDs and decided not to carry that product line. The main issue was it just generally looked like crap in a reflective housing. You end up with tons of light scatter and zero throw distance. Just imagine one of those night time toys where it projects stars on the ceiling for kids.... that's basically what you have projecting forward. Any time of forward projecting light such as lows, highs, and fogs you really want either halogen or HID solution unless the housing was designed to utilize LED type lighting.
As for the other 24-SMD wedge bulb, with 24-SMDs, you're looking at a fairly substantial sized LED unit unless those are really small diodes. In the LED world, more doesn't mean better. You're much better off with fewer, but larger diodes than many and smaller. The center part of the diode is where the light is emitted, so with a larger diode, you have less bezel dead space per available area than you do with smaller diodes. This translates better light output.
As for H7 LED bulbs, we experimented around those type of LEDs and decided not to carry that product line. The main issue was it just generally looked like crap in a reflective housing. You end up with tons of light scatter and zero throw distance. Just imagine one of those night time toys where it projects stars on the ceiling for kids.... that's basically what you have projecting forward. Any time of forward projecting light such as lows, highs, and fogs you really want either halogen or HID solution unless the housing was designed to utilize LED type lighting.
As for the other 24-SMD wedge bulb, with 24-SMDs, you're looking at a fairly substantial sized LED unit unless those are really small diodes. In the LED world, more doesn't mean better. You're much better off with fewer, but larger diodes than many and smaller. The center part of the diode is where the light is emitted, so with a larger diode, you have less bezel dead space per available area than you do with smaller diodes. This translates better light output.
#373
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As you all know, AZN Optics is always looking out for new innovations and designs in the market to bring you the best option available for your w204. We've just released a spin off our older V2 model which we're calling V2.5. This design incorporates a capacitor to help regulate power as well as a physical cut PCB to help reduce heat transfer to more delicate diode components. Few other component improvements as well.
#375
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194 wedge LEDs for your front city lights, 38mm festoon LEDs for your rear plate. If you've upgraded to clear/smoked sidemarkers, it's another 194 wedge LED set for your sidemarkers. Front signals are 3457 super wedge LEDs. If you have OEM halogens, your low beams use H7 HID kit (we offer Morimoto units). If you have OEM xenons, your low beams use D2S HID bulbs which we also offer Morimoto units.