Draining Oil
 

Just curious to see, how many of you actually drain your oil coolers when changing your oil.
I drain the oil on my 07 E63 from three different sources, the rear oil pan, the forward oil pan and there's the oil cooler as well.
Most people don't bother with the forward oil pan and oil cooler, but there in quite alot of oil located there.
I just want to get as much old oil out as possible :nix:
I know that some us the suction method, but that doesn't get all the oil out as some of know already know. I think that drain method is he best in my opinion.

I drain mine via both pans. Does the 06 E55 have an oil cooler? If so, where is it?

right under the heat exchanger and behind the passenger side fog light

The poll is invalid because you will get both 55 and 63.

I understand to recommendation from the AMG PL, but I will continue to drain my oil this way. As it gets more of the old oil out then any other way. You mentioned that the oil in the forward pan is negligible, well enough oil came out to have half filled a coffee cup. And the oil cooler holds about a coffee cup of oil as well. I did replace the crush washers and provided thread wrap on the bolts. I wasn't looking for anyone's permission, I just wanted to know if others drain the oil the same way as me. This may not be the preferred method, but it gets out more oil then any other method :)

draing the cooler
 

Will this cause a problem at start up?
Since the cooler is empty the lines will all need to be filled and then send oil pressure to the motor. The short time can cause engine damage.
Do you have a way to prime the system before start up?
I change from both pans using Mobil 1 formula M 5w40 every 5k.
The oil look very clean every time... Maybe I should toss it into my daily driver for another 5k..:-)

Your engine would have to run longer then the initial flow to cause engine damage caused by lack of oil. Since oil is in the pan, it just a matter of circulation. I could see this as an issue in a cold climate, but I just let me car idle until the oil reached it's operating temp, before measuring the oil level, since I drained the oil cooler, I had to add more oil. I've put in approximately 9.75 quarts, to the right level on the dip stick.

I can only guess you do this, because it makes you feel good that you got all of it. I can tell you it's a waste of time. There have been extended drain tests done that prove this. Just by topping up and replacing the sample amount taken, oil life can be extended dramatically. So, missing a quart or so on a 9 quart system will not have any impact.

The way oil looks has absolutely no bearing on its condition. It's all about the the properties of the oil that make it work. The filter takes care of the dirt. (You could put that in your DD and be just fine.)

At the end of the day, its your car and your money. Do what you want.

EDIT: Forgot to add... I'll end up draining both since it is so easy. Plus I have 8 bolts and crush washers to use up. I am sampling to determine life, however.

Those this front and rear oil drain plug suits for the 09 E63, if so I was not aware it had a dual plug. And also how would you drain the oil cooler??
I guess I did mine wrong as I drained only from the back :-/

Since your 09 is built on the same platform as my 07, I would say yes, it does have a front and rear drain plug. The front drain plug, is right over top of the front sway bar, when draining the oil flows around the bar coating it in oil, just wipe it off. Don't forget to replace your crush washers, as their only like .17 cents each. Anytime I do any oil service I remove all three engine belly pans, the oil cooler is located right behind the chin spoiler you can't miss it. You must remove the very front belly pan to access it, and there is a drain bolt on the right side of the cooler. believe it or not, but your car actually has two oil cooler. One mounted low in the nose, forward of the radiators, and one mounted in the right side forward of the passenger side tire, it has a cooling fan attached to it. I wish that I had photos, but I didn't take any on Sunday. The forward sump and oil coller will field about a cup of oil, when drained. But at least you'll know that you got 98-99% of it, you can't account for what's in the oil lines. :y Well, this is a learning experience, the next time, you'll drain all three.

you bet!!
all i know is that i left the oil draining for 30 min before i put the pug back in, and i do my oil changes every 3-4 thousand miles. im just very paranoid and i dont trust over 5k miles oil changes, needless to say every 10k miles.

I can relate, as I'm a bit paranoid myself when it comes to my cars. But I change my oil every 10k, as synthetics don't require frequent oil changes, besides my car only has 36,480 miles on it in 4 years.

well mine has 36,300 since jan 2009. i just recently bought the car

It doesn't matter how often you change your oil, just change it period. I don't gave a set mileage limit, I just use 10k as a place holder to remind me when it's due. Most times I change it at 9500 miles

I change it between 3-5k miles. I know they say full synthetic gets more but I don't see the need to run it to the limit.

You're not even close to the limit.:rolleyes:

15k? Why the hell would you have a hand forced induction engine like this and cheap out by running it into the dirt with dirty oil? I guarantee a motor with synthetic changed every 5k miles will run longer and with less issues than one with oil changed every 15k miles.

Actually, you'd be dead wrong to think such a thing. It'll run just as long. It's like emptying out your gas tank every other day because you feel that your gasoline starts to go stale the day you fill up your tank. Changing your oil every 5K is just absurd and the only thing you are doing is wasting money, oil and time changing it. You ARE NOT helping your engine in the least bit and no matter how hard you pretend that you are, you simply aren't.

Maybe you should change you brake fluid, transmission fluid and coolant every 5K as well...you never know. :rolleyes:

LOL - No.

These cars are known to burn oil in some situations as well, which I've dealt with in the past on other vehicles. Running the car hard in high temp situations on oil that's been cycled for 15k miles is just asking for trouble. Please take your car out to run hot laps on the drag strip with 15k on the engine oil. I'll be laughing if/when you spin a rod bearing.

Remember that most people are running Mobil 1 oil, which arguably uses inferior base stock compared to the higher synthetic brands out there. It's subject to wear and breakdown. Even after 5k miles, mine comes out black and looks/smells like ass. At that point, a fresh change results in noticeably smoother idle and operation. I wouldn't trust it to protect my engine on hard runs in high temp conditions at 15k miles.

But hey, if your car is a commuter that you never beat on (really, why by a 55k for that reason), then by all means change at 15k.

And, well, mentioning the other fluids are absurd, and can't be compared engine oil for obvious reasons.

First, it's 10K, not 15K to start.

Second, do you know why the oil turns black? I bet you don't know that it has nothing to do with it being dirty, but I guess you won't believe anyone anyways so it's worthless to argue that point.

Third, noticeably smoother idle and operation from changing out 5K mile oil? LMAO...talk about placebo. :crazy:

Forth, not changing your oil for 10K had nothing to do with not checking oil levels till 10K. There is a reason our cars take 9 quarts of oil when they only really need half that amount to operate. But again, you obviously are stuck in 1967 when frequent oil changes actually DID matter so what's the use of me going on about it.

First of all, it's hardly a placebo. Your car will run smoother on a fresh oil change. Second of all, many people think that running "full synthetic" justifies 15k oil service. I couldn't care less what it says on the label.

Third, I know exactly why oil turns black. I also know why it potentially smells like fuel, and the other reasons why it would break down. When conditioners in oil are at work, it tends to collect particles that would otherwise collect on surfaces within the engine. Despite whatever notion you may have, it all ends up somewhere.

I'm glad you're wearing rose colored glasses assuming engine oil stays perfectly clean and serviceable 100% of the time even through repeated heat cycling and tens (whatever) of thousands of miles of repeated use. Let's not pretend that engine blowby, crankcase ventilation, fuel injector leakage, or anything of that nature plays into the equation.

While we're at it, let's go down to the track and tell those guys to stop changing oil every 200 miles. It's all good. That 50 bucks worth of oil and filter isn't worth peace of mind.

I don't think anyone is suggesting 15k miles.

But even a decent synthetic oil will go 7-8k miles without even a hint of a problem.

Further, when's the last time you saw an engine failure due to a relatively high quality oil...not low pressure, not overheating, not fod, but actual oil related failure? its a non issue.

Do what you want, but changing synthetic oil at 5k vs. 7 to 8k has no bearing on engine life.

This is so stupid, I can't even believe it.

No, it's not. I don't care what you may think, but it's the truth. You're just a notorious forum troll who probably has zero practical experience with cars outside of parking them in his garage, so whatever.

I've seen rod bearings spin and even seize causing engine failure on a number of cars not necessarily due to the type or quality of the oil, but due to not being diligent with checking oil levels and the quality and/or conditions of the oil (thinning due to fuel leaks, etc). The longer you run between oil changes with the possiblity of an undiagnosed condition only increases the odds of this happening.

What do you not understand about being a longevity issue? Given less frequent oil changes, who's to say your motor may pay the price before it hits 200k miles? Let's face it - if most people wait until the 10-15k range (yes, this is normal for some), it's going to take a toll over the life of the engine, as opposed to someone who changed it in the 3-5k range.

Don't even bother answering that question, actually, because I have neither the time nor the inclination to argue endlessly with trolls such as yourself. I'm right. You're wrong. That's all there is to it.

You could possibly be the dumbest person on this site.

No practical experience? I was one of the first people over 600rwhp with a returnless 99 cobra which I built myself. Not to mention having one of the highest hp 99 cobras for at least a year at 700rwhp which was also featured in a national mustang magazine. Lets see, engine build, supercharger installation, rear end swap, tranny swap, tuning, etc. Should I go on? Not to mention I do 99% of my own work on every car I've ever owned, including mercedes, bmws, porsches, audis, and the aforementioned mustang.


Now, since you're so dumb, you've confused checking oil with changing oil. yes, keeping the right level is critical...which is confirmed by CHECKING IT, not changing it. If you changed the oil every time it was low, you'd probably be on OPECs christmas list.

As for fuel leaks, if you are having such issues with fuel dilution, you have a mechanical issue. Instead of changing the oil every 200 miles, YOU FIX THE ****ING FUEL LEAK PROBLEM. Obviously if you have a mechanical problem, you fix the problem, then change the oil.

Now, 200k miles. 1. How many people are going to drive their E55s 200k miles? Very few.

2. A modern engine can easily go 200k miles on 10k synthetic oil changes if the car is not abused or mechanically deficient (that fuel leak you mentioned).

3. You have absolutely zero proof to the contrary whereas there are countless stories of people going 200k miles following the FSS oil change schedule, which is about 12k miles.


Finally, none of this has to do with that fact that you made this statement:

Now, please explain to those with less practical experience with cars than you :rolf:how specifically a fresh oil change will make the car run better. Please provide technical details.

Does it make the spark stronger? Does it promote a more complete fuel burn? Does it remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber? Does it clean fuel injectors?


please, I'm dying to hear this.