Guys it looks a lot harder than it is and I want to share with the board what I found out doing it the hard way.First I searched up and down the net and just found people that just gave up and after trying for about 3 hours and losing the igniter in the engine bay and a million scuffs and cuts on my hands I can now do the bulbs in 2 min.

1.remove the round black plastic cover by twisting it.

you now can see the back of the igniter.

2.push in a little and turn the igniter and it will pop off and expose the bulb.There is a wire that will come off and you will think wtf where does it go and how did it come off so easy(I will get to this later on)

3.there are 2 springy clips that hold the bulb in and those come off easy and now the bulb is out.

4.install new bulb with the wire facing down towards the car and reclip the springs that hold the bulb into place.

Now that is all the easy part and this next step in putting the rest back together probably took most people that tried it well over an hour.Its impossible to get that stupid igniter on and will drive you insane.

well after countless hours and googling images of the projector housing and looking at how it works with no luck and seeing people post about them giving up I have figured it out and would like to let you guys know how to get it back on real easy.

first do NOT install the wire plug into the igniter before putting the igniter on the bulb.If you look at the igniter there are openings where the bulb slides into and you need to align them with a small flat head so they match up.If you dont do this you will never get the igniter on the bulb and spend hours trying to get it out.

That stupid wire pushes the inside of the igniter and locks the bulb in.

So line up the holes on the igniter and pop it back on the bulb and once its on then install the plug.

thats it and you are good to go.

I was putting the plug on first and didnt notice there are 2 holes on the igniter and installing the plug would put them out of sync and would never let you get the bulb on.

Im sure many have been stuck at that point and wanted to let the next guy know before he goes crazzy trying to get the stupid igniter back on.

 

Thanks for the DIY. Copy/pasted to my email. Also would like to thank you for the TB reset for Codes P505/507 i got. So far so good after driving 15min this morning and stopping at several red lights.

 

I have a solution for people getting the dreaded tb codes coming up soon.

I tapped the oil vapor lines right to the s/c inlet like the sl55 does and it dosnt even have a hole on the TB.

No codes in my car for the last 3-4 months running this way.

For the longest time people didnt know that the oil lines were on the vacume side of the TB blade and that is why most cars will throw codes.At idle the blad is almost closed and if you have the hole on the intake side of the blade there is not a lot of vaccume there to suck the oil vapor enough and the idle is a little higher than the car likes.

 

Great DIY.
By my right one the spring came off and can't fix it :-(

 

def interested when you do a DIY on the TB. Right now car idles around 580, a bit lower than the bar that equals 600rpm.

 

Just tweak the lines and watch your tps% on a fully warmed car in drive the ecu wants to see 2.7-3.2 and will pend a code the second it sees lower than 1.2% my car is boarderline and sits at 1.6-2.0 in drive and its really close to the limit the car will allow

 

I've scraped and bruised my forearm trying to change that damn bulb on the drivers side. I got so frustrated that I called Bramage and he came over to help. We tried for an hour or so and couldn't get it in. I gave up and took it to the dealer.

 

I think i should do the same

 

Lol im all cut and bruised up all over.you guys got stuck where i did also.its simple now that i know how to do it.

If you dont line up the holes on the igniter and install the wire first before putting the igniter on the bulb you will never get it on.

I called dima half way into and he told me he took it it a shop too lol