W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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Noobie with s/c pulley install

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Old 07-02-2012, 09:42 PM
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E55 AMG
I heard one of these pulleys today; oh and I saw it too...*shudder*
Old 07-11-2012, 04:28 AM
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OK, my parts are all here and ready to install over the weekend ASP aluminum pulleys, Shardul S/C pulley, new HD green belt, and PTE 180F t-stat. Jerry will retune it for the pulley on the 27th. I have some questions about installing this for those of you who already went through the process:

1) What are you guys using to remove the S/C clutch bolt? Looks like 24mm but there's not enough room for a socket due to the fan shroud. I'd really like to avoid lifting the motor, if possible.

2) Counterclockwise to remove, right, and what's the correct torque spec for the bolt?

3) The instructions mention eliminating dowel pins with the replacement clutch. Do we leave the dowel pins or remove them? I'm assuming the former.

4) How many shims to use in addition to the factory shims? My kit came with 6 shims, I don't think I need to use that many, correct?

5) Any sanding or resurfacing of the pulley necessary while the clutch assembly is off? Does anything require lubrication or just reassemble dry?

6) What's that littler spacer for that comes with one of the ASP pulleys? I didn't receive any instructions from ASP.

Can't wait to get this stuff installed, but I'm worried about that bolt even thought I have an IR 3/4 impact. It just doesn't look like there's enough room there so I may have to jack the motor :-(


Last edited by mrweelr; 07-11-2012 at 04:32 AM.
Old 07-11-2012, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mrweelr
OK, my parts are all here and ready to install over the weekend ASP aluminum pulleys, Shardul S/C pulley, new HD green belt, and PTE 180F t-stat. Jerry will retune it for the pulley on the 27th. I have some questions about installing this for those of you who already went through the process:

1) What are you guys using to remove the S/C clutch bolt? Looks like 24mm but there's not enough room for a socket due to the fan shroud. I'd really like to avoid lifting the motor, if possible.

2) Counterclockwise to remove, right, and what's the correct torque spec for the bolt?

3) The instructions mention eliminating dowel pins with the replacement clutch. Do we leave the dowel pins or remove them? I'm assuming the former.

4) How many shims to use in addition to the factory shims? My kit came with 6 shims, I don't think I need to use that many, correct?

5) Any sanding or resurfacing of the pulley necessary while the clutch assembly is off? Does anything require lubrication or just reassemble dry?

6) What's that littler spacer for that comes with one of the ASP pulleys? I didn't receive any instructions from ASP.

Can't wait to get this stuff installed, but I'm worried about that bolt even thought I have an IR 3/4 impact. It just doesn't look like there's enough room there so I may have to jack the motor :-(

1. Fan shroud has to come off
2. 90Nm if I remember correctly, the tq specs are in the instructions
3. Leave the dowel pins on
4. Use all 6
5. No
6. That spacers goes inbetween the double idler pulley.
Old 07-11-2012, 12:53 PM
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Thanks Shardul. How do I remove the fan shroud? It wasn't obvious when I looked around last night. So 24mm short impact socket with universal joint or angle adapter right? What sort of pulley strap do I need to hold the pulley in place before hitting the bolt with an impact? I'd like to pickup the necessary tools before the weekend. So use all 6 shims in addition to the factory shims? Will do, thanks.
Old 07-11-2012, 01:05 PM
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good talking to you over the phone.
Old 07-11-2012, 01:13 PM
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I lifted the motor when I did mine and it's easier than it sounds. Simply remove the two lower motor mount bolts (one on each side) and jack the motor just enough to get the socket with long extension onto the s/c pulley bolt. I used a piece of wood to spread out the load and had no problems at all. When I was done I lowered the motor back down and everything fell right back into place, reinstall the motor mount bolts and you're done.

I bought a strap wrench with a rubber strap from Home Depot. to hold the s/c clutch when removing and tightening the bolt. Using an impact wrench to get the bolt off is the only way to go and then torque to spec when the new pulley is in place.

I found this install guide when I was researching it before I installed mine.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
SC Clutch.pdf (229.0 KB, 303 views)
Old 07-11-2012, 01:21 PM
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Thanks Kickem. I'm going to try removing the fan shroud method first and if I have to, I'll lift the motor. How many shims did you end up using in addition to the factory shims? Did you do any cleaning or prep on the pulley? Any lubrication anywhere or just slap it all together dry? I can't wait to get this clutch installed, the herky/jerky supercharger engagement and squeak have been there since I bought the car. I already have traction problems, should be a real tire burner after this pulley is on with the EC retune :-)
Old 07-11-2012, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mrweelr
How many shims did you end up using in addition to the factory shims? Did you do any cleaning or prep on the pulley? Any lubrication anywhere or just slap it all together dry?
I've had mine apart twice and am up to 3 shims plus the factory but I would probably go with Shardul's advice and use them all if that's what he recommends...he's had a lot of feedback, I'm sure. Mine is a little under tolerance again and I'll probably end up putting a couple more in there.

I didn't have to do any cleaning, prep or lubrication other than wiping everything down and cleaning the threads before reassembly. Take your time with the shims as they're a pretty snug fit to the shaft and enjoy the extra horsepower when you're done!
Old 07-11-2012, 01:57 PM
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I would do all 6...do yourself a major labor-saver, lift the motor...it takes minutes!
Old 07-11-2012, 05:20 PM
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OK, I'll use all 6 shims plus the factory shims which is what everyone's recommended. I don't want to have to tear it apart again a second time. That said, do I still need to measure clearance or just stack the shims, reassemble and call it a day since the tolerances change after break-in anyway? Does the shim orientation matter, I'm assuming they are stacked together facing the same direction, right? Sorry for the questions, but I don't like doing jobs twice and the additional info will help others planning to install their own S/C clutches. Thanks!
Old 07-11-2012, 05:37 PM
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i left the factory's on first...stacked up the others on top. if you don't hear any squealing and the SC works...enjoy!
Old 07-14-2012, 02:49 PM
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OK, I wrenched on the 55 until 1:30am and go everything installed last night. Went out and drove it for about 30 mins and she pulls like a **** raped ape. This is without the Eurocharged retune, I can't wait to get the dyno tune done on the 27th in SF! Clutch engagement is smooth and completely silent, I can't believe how harsh and noisy that POS OEM S/C clutch was, she runs so smooth now with no more hesitation going into boost Definitely the best mod I've done thus far, headers and E63 mufflers are next on the list.

As far as the install goes, I just unbolted the top plate and lifted the fan shroud enough to slip a 3/4" impact socket and extension through and the bolt came right off with 125psi and my IR impact gun. Took my time cleaning and carefully reassembling everything and didn't run into any drama. The torx bolts holding those OEM pulleys on were uber tight and I was glad to break those loose without stripping anything. I used all 6 shims that came with the new pulley and stacked on top of the OEM shims. There is plenty of clearance between the clutch face and pulley and it spins freely with the engine off. I did notice the pulley does spin some with the engine idling, but I can stop it with my hand so I'm not too concerned.

I highly recommend this mod and it was worth every penny to me. We'll see how it holds up, but it looks like a solid piece so I have no doubts it will last for a very long time.

Here are some pics...

Old 07-14-2012, 02:51 PM
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:53 PM
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by slownrusty
The CTSV has 6 lugs!?
Thats what it looks like in the picture good investigating detective .
Old 07-14-2012, 04:00 PM
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looks solid man... congrats, keep us posted with a dyno and stuff
Old 07-14-2012, 06:34 PM
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Are u getting a remote retune to drive with in he meantime? Looks great would love to check it out.
Old 07-15-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lm7
Are u getting a remote retune to drive with in he meantime? Looks great would love to check it out.
Yes, I already have the Eurocharged remote tune and TCU. Will be dyno retuned on the 27th for the new pulley. In the meantime, I'm crushing everything I run into in this beast. I raced a new BMW ActiveHybrid 7 yesterday that still had dealer plates. We went from a 50mph roll and I put a carlength on him by 90mph and hit the brakes. He stayed in it and did a flyby up to 120mph+ in a 45mph zone, more money than brains. That big heavy twin-turbo V8 BMW was fast. I'm looking forward to getting the EC retune done to fully benefit from the new S/C clutch. Even without a retune, it's a very noticeable increase in performance over the stock clutch/pulley.
Old 07-15-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mrweelr
Yes, I already have the Eurocharged remote tune and TCU. Will be dyno retuned on the 27th for the new pulley. In the meantime, I'm crushing everything I run into in this beast. I raced a new BMW ActiveHybrid 7 yesterday that still had dealer plates. We went from a 50mph roll and I put a carlength on him by 90mph and hit the brakes. He stayed in it and did a flyby up to 120mph+ in a 45mph zone, more money than brains. That big heavy twin-turbo V8 BMW was fast. I'm looking forward to getting the EC retune done to fully benefit from the new S/C clutch. Even without a retune, it's a very noticeable increase in performance over the stock clutch/pulley.
Sounds awesome, I am stock piling some bolt ons and I was leaning on having ASP install all of it but your DIY makes me think I can handle it, i just don't want to get started and find I need a tool i don't have.

how is the new pulley down low from a stop, any belt slippage?
Old 07-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lm7
Sounds awesome, I am stock piling some bolt ons and I was leaning on having ASP install all of it but your DIY makes me think I can handle it, i just don't want to get started and find I need a tool i don't have.

how is the new pulley down low from a stop, any belt slippage?
I didn't need any special tools other than a large air compressor and a good IR 3/4 impact and sockets. You'll also need high-quality Torx bits to get those OEM pulleys off, you definitely don't want to strip those out.

The new S/C clutch is super quiet and smooth compared to the original 67K mile clutch that was on my car. That chirp noise was very annoying and the engine used to cut out/hesitate right when the boost kicked in. That issue is gone and I love driving my car again No perceived belt slippage, I used a new HD green belt and it's on very tight compared to the blown out belt that was on there before.
Old 02-07-2013, 04:21 PM
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Hi, what are your long term experiences with this mod?
Old 02-07-2013, 05:32 PM
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Hi, what are your long term experiences with this mod?
Works the same as it did when I put it on in April 2012.
Old 02-07-2013, 05:57 PM
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yes great product and great support
Old 02-07-2013, 07:25 PM
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I have a couple thousand miles on mine with zero issues... positive engagement and solid performance gains. Excellent mod!
Old 02-07-2013, 07:46 PM
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Did everyone get shims? I ordered from Eurocharged during the black Friday sale and got the pulley in the box with the heat exchanger but didn't see any shims anywhere??


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