AMGPilot

Sounds like you're spending your allowance and not your "Family"'loan

A NTG 2.5 conversion is cheaper than keyless go

03'55AMG

Keyless go is a no go. Too much money. And I thought about the NTG 2.5 but I dont want to tear the car apart to run more wires. The dynavin seems like the best aftermarket option. Its not too expensive, has great features and stock look, and is "Plug n Play" with the steering wheel controls and stock audio gateway.

Unless I can find parts on the cheap from a part car, NTG 2.5 is unlikely in my future.

viren.89

Before getting Pioneer I also thought about Dynavin, but reviewers said, that you have a 5% power loss (volume) with Fiber optic equipped cars and radio reception ceases to be that good plus some of them run Windows 6.0 CE (really slow) , could be upgraded to Android though.

Opti-1's bad is that there will be no fade functionality thats it. Hopefully I get it installed today and will update how it goes.

AMGPilot

You run ONE wiring harness down the Drivers side cable duct. It's true plug and play and it sounds and performs better than the Dynavin. But hey what do I know other than I've installed quite a few NTG 2.5 conversions

03'55AMG

I'm on my way to my Mercedes dealer to get parts and prices, so can someone please provide me with the 2.5 part number?

AMGPilot

LOL, you don't get the conversion parts at the dealer

03'55AMG

I found that out REALLL QUICK when they tried to charge me over $1800 for the audio gateway..

Overall, I will never return to that dealer, ever again. Literally had the worst experience one could imagine. I get there(parts department), and there is 5, yes FIVE people working the counter, except they are all busy doing the exact same thing. Looking up parts for a mercedes that cost a lot. They are literally all sitting their looking at random parts for a car and seeing which cost most. One guy said "Ohh this ones $250," and another person from sales starts imitating masturbation.. So I interrupt them and ask why they ALL needed to be doing that, and then someone comes over to help me, looking all pissed off.

Like what the **** is this, I am here to spend money and your pissed I interrupted your little experiment. So I ask for the prices on a voltage regulator(W/ tax= $100.62), and an audio gateway (W/ tax=$1,870.50), and then purchase an oil filter (W/ tax=$16.52) and two washers for the drain plugs (W/ tax=$3.04). I then leave with my parts and they all go back to the computer... Seriously.

Any ways, there was a light at the end of the tunnel. I ran into somebody I met a while ago who works there, who chatted me up a while back about the AMG when it was being serviced. He then insists he must show me a car they got it, and I said I would later, and that I was upset with the service. He then says, trust me, you will love it. I am glad I followed him...
A 2013 SL63 AMG twin turbo V8... Designo interior, carbon fibre package, matte white paint job, It was sweet.. If only I had $170,000..
Enjoy!

03'55AMG

Hey Marcus, if you don't mind would you PM me what parts I need for a NTG 2.5 conversion? I read up a lot and I think I want to take this route if feasible. Also, from what I have read, you run one harness, and plug it into the trunk, then it all works. But plug it into what? Thanks

jnash

That particular clamp-on Radio Shack meter gets terrible reviews at the radio shack site on accuracy of DC amps. As much as 7 or so amps in error. I wouldn't trust the actual readings, but you might be able to determine relative changes in DC current as you pull fuses etc.

03'55AMG

I tested it on circuits I knew had a half amp draw. I also know what you are talking about. It reads 7 or 8 amps off, then you zero it out and its accurate. It read .48 amps on my known half amp circuit.

cij911

Bumping this thread....I have a brand new MB battery and am seeing 0.6 amp draw. The car often sits for 5+ days and I already have seen the "convenience features" disabled message. Isn't a 0.6 amp draw excessive ?

I pulled the two aftermarket fuses I installed and the draw was no different, so that means 0.6 amp draw is from a factory component.

Update : I unplugged the Innovate OT-2 OBD2 plug and the draw dropped to 0.2 amps. I am quite surprised the draw from the OBD2 plug / OT-2 is so high (0.4 amps) when off. Now I just need to find the other draws as even 0.2 amps is excessive.

I always thought general belief was 0.03 amps or less is standard. Anyone know what the FACTORY says ?? (MB Techs please chime in....)

Thanks in advance!

jnash

It should be less than 60 milliamperes after every system has shut down. You may see as low as 20 mA depending on options. It takes 30 mins or less to see this drop when everything is turned off, and car is locked.
Clip the trunk lock closed if measuring at the battery in the trunk to turn off the trunk lamp
If it stays at 0.6 then I would start pulling fuses but give it time to settle as every time you open a door the current drain will probably go up.

cij911

Thanks Jim...I made a duplicate post and forgot to post back here that after the system went into "sleep mode" the draw dropped down to 0.025 amps (so 25 mA). Interestingly though, the real issue was my ODB2 datalogger - drawing 0.4 amps (which is what apparently killed my battery the first time).

typhoon43

I also noticed when I plugged in my 2 Aeroforce Interceptors into the OBDII port that I would have the "convenience features disabled" battery warning after letting the car sit overnight. Once I hardwired the gauges to 12V accessory, they now turn on/off with the ignition and no more warnings. I never thought those 2 little gauges would draw that much current from the OBDII port.