DIY Retrofit for Automatic Trunk Closer.
 

Well after months of collecting bits and pieces together and finishing up a project at work, I set about installing my trunk closer.

I have attached a PDF of how to install the trunk closer on W211. This was one of the more challenging retrofits I had to do simply because there wasn't much documented in the WIS and I purchased some used parts and the harness they sent was completely wrong so that had me confused for a while.

This can also serve as a harness replacement guide for those that already have the closer and had issues with their harness getting cut. By the way, I have a spare harness (somehow, I ordered two) if anyone else wants to attempt this.

Had to break it down into 4 pdfs due to file size limitations. It probably messed up the numbering also for the steps ..

Trunk Closer DIY by Turbo97se

Disclaimer: This DIY serves as a reference document only. Please double check all part numbers in reference to your VIN number in EPC. Please read all the safety documentation in the WIS before attempting this install

I have only covered at a high level what needs to be done. Details of how to remove lining etc have not been covered since they are largely covered either on-line or in the WIS.

What you will need:

1. Trunk closing motor and controller A2118202042
2. Potentiometer A2118201597
3. Wire harness A2115404810
4. Power closing latch A2117500184
5. Door switch to open and close A2118211751
6. Trunk switch to close (and lock if you have keyless go) – A2208211479
7. Trunk molding for switch A2117500393 – check colour
8. 30A Maxi fuse – Parts store/Ebay
9. Access to DAS to initialize and normalize motor
10. 4x M6-1.0 flange nuts

Tools:

1. 10mm sockets/extensions
2. #15 torx
3. Trim removal tool

************************************************** ****************

Steps to install:

1. Familiarize yourself with the harness:
There are 5 connectors in total

http://i39.tinypic.com/vhry2c.jpg

2. Remove spare wheel cover and trim from left side of trunk
a. You will see the Rear SAM and rack for GPS DVD, Parktronic module etc ..

http://i43.tinypic.com/141jv4y.jpg


3. Remove the SAM – this is removed by:

a. Removing 10 mm bolt under the Navigation DVD player and swinging out the carrier.
b. Remove two more nuts holding the SAM
c. Using trim removal tool remove the electrical harness from the top of the SAM


4. Find connection B on your harness:
Plug into the first slot (should be numbered 88)
You will need to get a 30A Maxi fuse to plug into the slot. Leave it out for now but have it handy for later.
Run the power cable along with the red wires (shown on the left in the pic below).
Run the wire to the SAM area.

http://i42.tinypic.com/14dnbs2.jpg


Here is a close up of after plugging in:
http://i39.tinypic.com/29za2wn.jpg

5. Find connection D on your harness – plug has 4 pins only 2 of which are occupied

6. Plug connector D in to SAM connector number 6, located where my finger points to.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2aij9cj.jpg

7. While the SAM is out, route connector E cable along rear fender and under tail light (sorry picture is blurry and not sure why the text turned sideways after saving image)

http://i40.tinypic.com/ivgwtz.jpg


8. Run the cable to the striker eye area:

http://i41.tinypic.com/i20tmu.jpg
The connector feeds in from the right and connects to power striker eye.



Below is a picture of the power striker installed (viewed from inside the trunk). It is composed of two parts (forgot to take pic) 1. The motor part is where the connector plugs into, this goes behind the chassis mount. 2. The moving striker is the part that goes on top.:

http://i44.tinypic.com/20zwlmp.jpg

The way it functions is that when you press the button to close the trunk, the striker eye moves to the up position while the motor closes the trunk lid. The trunk closes onto the striker in the up position and pulls it down.




Below is a picture of the part that was originally there:
The bar goes on the back side of the chassis plate.

http://i43.tinypic.com/fan3p2.jpg


9. Here is the drive motor (minus controller):

There are two studs on top that go into the rear parcel shelf.
The lower part goes over a stud in the trunk.

http://i41.tinypic.com/14nhgu1.jpg

To mount in the trunk, you will need to do the following:

Remove C pillar trim on drivers side (Left side) - that is the trim above parcel shelf.
Remove rear seat bottom
Remove rear seat back (2 nuts - one on each side and one bolt in the centre)

You can either remove the rear parcel shelf (which takes a lot of effort) or slide your hand under the rear parcel shelf and put on the 2 M6 1.0 flange nuts to hold the unit in place.








Below is the picture of the motor mechanism mounted in the trunk.
The main wire harness runs right next to the lower bracket shown. I took extra precaution of wrapping that harness with thick felt and zip tie to prevent wearing through the cable.

The arm, if it is not in the right position can be rotated with vice-grips. Don’t try to activate electrically as I did at first or you will have tough time getting it in the right location. Motor controller connector D from the harness can now be attached to the motor.

http://i41.tinypic.com/20psmfm.jpg

10. Lastly run the trunk switch line (connector C) to the trunk. I thought I took more pictures of this part but I guess I didn’t.

a. Remove the plastic trim on the bottom edge of the trunk lid, there are
b. You need to remove the lining to the trunk lid – below is a picture of how to start. Also note how the switch is located. The original piece just has a grab handle where the switch is located.

http://i39.tinypic.com/110ag5h.jpg


http://i42.tinypic.com/xn58wx.jpg

Here is a WIS photo I marked up for clarity:
http://i39.tinypic.com/291grwh.jpg


c. replace the trim after tip-tieing the cable in place



Lastly, you will need to have a DAS to normalize the trunk.

With DAS go to:
1. Control Units
2. Seat and Doors
3. TLC – Trunk Lid control
4. Initial Start up
5. Initial Start up with MANUAL settings input (since this is a new install)
6. Follow the instructions given by the DAS for the next steps
7. It will take you to normalizing the potentiometer, again follow the instructions on the screen and then you are done!

Great diy!

This is awesome. thank you so much. I have been looking for this data and part numbers forever! :bow:

:yRespect :y

About How much did you spend in parts for everything?

Pricing will vary ... I searched a long time for parts and pieces, then got somewhat lucky and found almost complete car. $500 for most of the expensive parts (it would have been for everything but he sent me wrong harness and I did not know I needed the power closing lock piece until i started putting it together). So I have about $760 total in it.

I have an extra motor and controller and brand new harness. I need to look for the controller.

If you search Ebay in the US and in Germany (using terms W211 Heckdeckel) you may get lucky.

If you buy everything new:

1. Trunk closing motor and controller A2118202042 - $816
2. Potentiometer A2118201597 - $93
3. Wire harness A2115404810 - $48
4. Power closing latch A2117500184 - $261
5. Door switch to open and close A2118211751 - $60
6. Trunk switch to close (and lock if you have keyless go) – A2208211479 - $40.80
7. Trunk molding for switch A2117500393 – check colour - $26
8. 30A Maxi fuse – Parts store/Ebay - $3
9. Access to DAS to initialize and normalize motor
10. 4x M6-1.0 flange nuts - $1.00

Total of ~$1348 for factory parts.

I just realized, I forgot to add the switch in the door panel in the DIY ... I'll go back and fix that ... it was so easy though.

Awesome DIY! I always wanted the trunk closer. I hate slamming my trunk :/

Thank you very much for the detailed write up!

I have a fully optioned (minus distronic) complete 06 parts car and was going to transfer some of the options like the trunk closer to my E. However a friend of mine is likely buying the E so I'll sell the unneeded parts like the trunk closer assembly so somebody who wants to follow Turbo97se's how-to.

PM me, please don't booger up this helpful thread if interested.

Thanks alot!
I assume for the W215 it would be similar? :-)

I wonder if this, or something similar can be done in a W210?

I'm getting lazier by the day, what does something like this cost?

Thanks for all the detail!

Mr. lazy look at post #7

Do you mind adding it up for me :rolf:


Update: Never mind, he was nice enough to do that as well. I just got excited and posted up; I'll use this excuse for the brain fart. I'm on my cell phone.

Cheers!

this is awesome. thanks for the writeup. i want to do this one day, i hate when people close my trunk(usually i do it for them) but people get ballsy and touch my paint...dont like it at all

If anyone is interested in doing this, I have an extra motor/potentiometer/controller for sale.

$300 plus shipping for all of it.

pm sent!

good thing i didn't have to DIY... :D

Does anyone still have any parts for this for sale?

I have the trunk harness, brand new unopened .. I ordered one a long time ago and when I got around to retrofit accidentally ordered another one. Hit up SirBoostaLot for other parts.

how much for the harness

I cannot edit the original post. just wanted to re-iterate please double check part numbers according to your VIN. There will be differences in parts depending on if you have Keyless go or not for example dictates trunk switch type and possibly wire harness.

Also I will not be held accountable for any damage incurred due to improper installation following this guide

I have a complete kit from a 07 e63 if anyone is interested in using this DIY. pm me

WOH ! ... i wish i can do it on my w212 ... awsome

hello. told me that will I Need and module а2118703026. It is it true?

From what I have seen, the motor (A2118202042) usually comes with the controller. But I got mine used so not sure. Mine all came together

Thanks for the reply. For me everything is sold separately. So this module will I need?

Older thread but this is so tempting to do for our 2009. I hardly use the trunk ever but it's cool to do retro fits. I already have STAR and did the power folding mirrors retrofit. That wasn't too bad. This retro fit looks easier.

If I bought all parts from dealer it is going to cost $1821. If I use a combination of eBay and dealer I can get the price down to around $850.

Are the parts above for the face lifted w211?

Thanks,
-Nigel

I have all parts minus the harness which is coming tomorrow. I hope to install everything over the weekend.

Next question. What happens with the trunk springs? Are they still used? Do I remove them? Does the motor now only open close the trunk or can it manually be done as well?

Haven't seen any information regard the above.

Thanks,
-Nigel

I have tried to be very detailed in my DIY, so if it is not mentioned, it is not touched. The springs are still used and not modified in any way.
Not sure what you mean by, "Does the motor now only open close the trunk or can it manually be done as well?" Do you mean can the trunk now only be opened/closed using the motor. The answer to that is that the trunk can be closed by hand although you will feel a lot of resistance through the motor and it is not very good for the motor to do that.

One thing I perhaps did not mention is that there are two different motor controllers available. The older version closes the trunk very quickly and the newer one very slowly. I have both ... the newer one that closes more slowly seems to be more prone to getting caught up on any resistance and has more issues closing. The older/faster one is super fast at closing the trunk and could be considered a safety issue (which is perhaps one of the reasons that MB slowed it down), but I prefer it cos it makes absolutely sure the trunk closes.

I love this feature actually. I use it every day. I am considering making an additional modification to add a kick sensor that is on new cars to automatically open and close the trunk when your foot is close to the bumper. It would not be that hard to do really, just sensor, microcontroller to detect open state and wiring.

Good luck with your retrofit ... putting the motor in is probably the more challenging part of this. I was a little lazy and did not remove the rear speaker deck covering so access was awkward.

Thanks for all the info. I got all the parts. It appears that the the harness though for my year is different. I can't find a spot to plug this into on the rear fuse box. The little brown connector goes into sam fine.

Yea I wasn't sure on the trunk motor if it was only powered at that point or if need be, you can manually shut/open if it stopped working.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...8ad286af4d.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...f9ee54c508.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0c32108bf9.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...cb0e126a57.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...f4d2e6467f.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...f36fd9a757.jpg

I believe I also got the updated controller as well. I think this harness isn't right for my 09' though. I just don't know or have a part number for an 09' harness...arg.

Thanks,
-Nigel

Hopefully you read my disclaimer on post #2 about the part numbers. Please PM me your VIN and what part number you have for the harness and I will look up the correct part number for you. If it is just a power connector, I can usually figure a work around if it is indeed the wrong part number. I would not imagine it would be any different though. Will get you taken care of

* Edit It has been about 5-6 years since I did this .. the details are hazy... did you follow step 4? I think ... but cannot be certain just now that the plug you circled should plug into the large fuse rail in the rear wheel well. Did you do that step?

Sending you a PM with everything I have and pictures as soon as I get done posting this.

So that fuse I have I was looking at where all the rest of the fuses are on the side, right beside the SAM, left( driver side) rear most part of the trunk. I can take a further picture. Attached actually is what I am looking at. I don't think there is anywhere else for this to go?

*Pic is what I grabbed of youtube. But that's what I am looking at, behind/above and don't see anywhere for this to physically plug into.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...26d316a5a7.jpg

Appreciate the future help. Pm'ing you now.

-Nigel

OMG!!!! YES!!! I didn't even realize there were fuses there. I thought that picture was somewhere by the sam/fuses on the left side of the trunk!! It plugs right in! SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO happy!!

I just have to go and pick up the nuts and fuse tomorrow but freaking A!

Thank you!

I'll post an update here shortly after everything is buttoned up!

-Nigel

Cool .. yes perhaps the original photo I provided was not 100% clear. The picture does have a picture of the battery in it, but only a corner of the battery. I am not in the US now or I would've sent you a picture.
Hope you enjoy the trunk closer. Definitely one of my favorite retrofits. Only Parktronic is ahead of this one I think. I have run out of retrofit ideas and bored. Let me know if there are other ones out there. :)

SUCCESS!!! Thank you for this how to and help! It's GREATLY appreciated. Just got everything going and normalized.

Works perfectly!! I uploaded two videos on youtube. This is freaking awesome!

Outside opening trunk then using trunk button to close.

Other video is using the interior door switch to then open/close the trunk. LOVE IT!!!!




-Nigel

Glad you got it all working! Hope you enjoy it for years to come! :)

Thank you! Appreciate all the help. Your how to is the only one like this!

One question. Should the buttom portion of the trunk do a soft close? Or is my video correct in how it closes down the trunk. I ask only because I was browsing the other w2** forums and it appears that the newer models do a soft close feature where the last inch or two does a nice quiet part.

Is that not applicable for ours? Seems like my trunk just closes with a steady/solid click.

Thanks,
-Nigel

Yep all my parts are identical to yours. I have the active striker. I have thought I had it plugged in. I thought it was odd on adjustment only because when i put the new latch on, it had at least an inch or so up/down and left/fight movement. I will undo my latch to make sure that when i hit the close button to see if the actual latch does move up. It MIGHT be that I have the entire latch assembly up too high...

Will investigate more now. I will note that I get zero errors in STAR. So I would think that if there was a problem with the striker that it would throw some type of message in STAR... but I am not 100%.. Going to take a part a couple things and check out. Will update shortly.

My parts before installed. My striker looks exactly like what yours looked like.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...6f6b7e27b.jpeg



-Nigel

Welp. Found the problem,

You know the harness that plugs INTO the closing latch. That needs to be plugged INTO the latch, it appears that I completely forgot to connect it... Whoopsies!...lol

Now I just need to re-adjust the latch. I have the latch set so that it closes without it being plugged in. Which means I have to drop it down a little bit since it goes up as it's closing.

Crisis averted...hahahah
;-p


EDIT: Will ask one question. There is a YouTube video of a an e55 and in the convenience menu there is a feature to turn on so that it limits how hight hte trunk opens. I do not have such menu at all. Is there a way to add this via STAR... I looked everywhere in cluster settings in STAR and do not see this option anywhere.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...3f4660a37e.jpg


-Nigel

Figured it out after using google translate from my phone to look at every option. Please see attached screen shot of what you have to enable in STAR to get it on the instrument cluster to limit the trunk opening if you are in a garage or have super low ceilings...etc.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...fd614112c5.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...b1b9f411f0.jpg



Thanks,
-Nigel

Thanks to this I just completed this on a CLS 55 and all working well :)

the only problem is that that I didn’t get the bolt that connects the motor to the boot lid so used a M8 bolt but this is just a stop gap.

anyone know of you can get a replacement bolt?

thanks!

Are you talking about the bolts that are press fitted into the motor assembly housing frame? See attached picture with red circles?
If you are talking about those, honestly they are not seen once you put the top back trim piece that is covering the rear deck... You'd be fine with any bolts honestly just as long as they aren't too tall which would prevent the rear deck lid cover to properly sit and ones that wouldn't have slack between them and the housing. *IE: Using bolts that the diameter isn't big enough and the entire housing would move back and forth once bolted in..

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ef6925cfd4.jpg


My set up was missing the MB nuts so I just went to the hardware store and found the correct threaded nuts to use on the bolts. Unless someone took this out and inspected the nuts/bolts one would never know.

-Nigel

Hey Nigel,

Thanks for the reply, however those aren't what I meant, I mean the bolt that connects the motor arm to the boot lid

Ahhh gotch ya. Yea that bolt is going to be fairly not common. When I purchased my trunk motor from the eEbay seller when it arrived it did NOT have that specific bolt... after emailing them explaining that the pictures in their auction had it and what I received didn't, I was a bit pissed.

They could not find it anywhere. And said if I wanted to send the entire motor back that was ok with them considering their pictures had it. I found that they had another auction with another trunk motor and I asked the guy that was helping me out if they could simply send that bolt with the grommet. That's key... you need both. He went and double checked to make sure and he said yep that's no problem. Few days later I had the specific bolt and grommet. I don't even know where you'd get this. I highly doubt MB sells this part separately. I'd say your best bet is probably calling around junk yards or emailing people on ebay to see if you can simply just buy that bolt/grommet. Might cost some money but definitely cheaper than buying a whole used motor assembly for the bolt. (Might even check too see if there are junked motors that someone can take the part from).

Wish I could help more. Things like that drive me nuts because it's not an off the shelf type part.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...cf26f67f55.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...6766d796f3.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ff4109ebdd.jpg

Attached pictures of bolt in case anyone was wondering.

-Nigel

Yep that is the one indeed! Unfortunately it does seem that there’s no part number for it (when it should be )

I've been looking around and can’t seem to find that anywhere. Just using a 8mm bolt and nut at the moment, but that’s not good enough. Might have to fabricate something...

Hello,

I'm gathering all the parts for Automatic Trunk Closer, but I can't find wiring harness ( A2115404810 ), where did you guys buy it? I was searching on eBay.de, eBay.co.uk, eBay.com and original Mercedes-Benz Online Shop and it's not available :( Can someone help?

Best regards,
Luka

Hello,

Finally I found wiring harness now I'm just missing that famous bolt and grommet, does anybody have a picture of actual bolt and grommet so I can fabricate something, thank you!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...fed63c0d2d.jpg

See my post above for some pictures. You'd probably be better off finding it in either a junk yard or messaging someone on eBay seeing if they will sell you the bolt/grommet... Above it was mentioned a 8mm bolt was used but, Ideally I would want the oem bolt/grommet.

-Nigel

Thank you for the replay! I did saw those pictures, but I can't see complete bolt. I did call couple of junkyards but no luck and on eBay there are only motors without bolt/grommet. Yes, 8mm bolt is "perfect" for the smaller heksagon hole in the trunk but hole on the motor arm is bigger, I will have to figure something out.

I am adding the trunk power close module to my 05 w211 and have the same problem. Looking at the photos, the screw appears to be a custom shoulder bolt with a rubber bushing. Can't believe MB wouldn't sell this in service as it is a wear point. If I can't buy a replacement from MB my plan is to use nylon sleeves/washers and a shoulder bolt. Fortunately the attachment point is not visible after installation.

I wanted to thank you for putting all of this together. I previously owned a 2006 E55 that had the trunk closer. Recently I purchased another E55 and this was the one missing option. I did not realize how much I used it on the other car until I didn't have it.

In any event, I installed the system this weekend and it is working great. I never could have done it without your efforts. :y

Although I took all my parts from a parts car I have, I wanted to thank you for making this post. Got me through it very quickly and I luckily didnt even have to have my car programmed for the power trunk. Once I plugged everything in it started working.