does anyone have he part numbers for the front wheel bearings?
02-28-2014, 10:39 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
does anyone have he part numbers for the front wheel bearings?
i searched and ive come up with the 2303300325MY meyle kit , but am interested in sourcing the bearings alone.
Has anyone ever just purchased the bearings from a bearing distributor? i have wholesale accounts with a few local distributors, and would like to go through them as i can have my company pay for them. Zero cost out of pocket would be great.
beck/arnely 051-3723 or
BECK/ARNLEY 051-3879
SKF 32008XQVB458
do any of these sound right?
Has anyone ever just purchased the bearings from a bearing distributor? i have wholesale accounts with a few local distributors, and would like to go through them as i can have my company pay for them. Zero cost out of pocket would be great.
beck/arnely 051-3723 or
BECK/ARNLEY 051-3879
SKF 32008XQVB458
do any of these sound right?
03-01-2014, 11:46 AM
#3
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This place is a joke.
They rarely go bad. Usually repacking the outer bearing (a relatively simple job) and readjusting takes away any play and you're good to go for a long time.
03-03-2014, 08:53 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
i will look into repacking the bearing, and re torquing the lock not nut to spec. i definitely have noise coming form the front left wheel, especially when taking a corner you can hear the bearing get louder.
i dont want to purchase a full kit, i want to just purchase the bearings through my distributor. trying to save up money for tires, spark plugs,etc. if i can get the correct part number i wont have to pay the $60 bucks for a kit when the bearings alone are around $10 each and can order them through my company and not have to pay a dime.
i dont want to purchase a full kit, i want to just purchase the bearings through my distributor. trying to save up money for tires, spark plugs,etc. if i can get the correct part number i wont have to pay the $60 bucks for a kit when the bearings alone are around $10 each and can order them through my company and not have to pay a dime.
03-03-2014, 09:18 AM
#5
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This place is a joke.
If its that noisey you may have an issue then, you'll have to pull the dust cap and inspect. Ive seen people remove the caps which is a very bad idea, to fit aftermarket wheels, and water gets in there.
03-03-2014, 10:23 AM
#6
Super Member
I know you're trying to get the information ahead of time, but if you're having a really loud noise and it is in the front of your car it be something of a concern for me, you're going to have to take the wheel off to inspect the bearing in anyway....pull the wheel off, start taking it apart and get the part number probably a Timken bearing.... Then when you get the information come back on here and post it for everybody..... Don't let the wife drive it unless you attend to all front end issues..... Honey I was just trying to save $50 so I kept driving the car and then the wheel fell off
03-03-2014, 12:13 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
caps are still on. Im just super **** when it comes down to my cars. Wheel bearing is just starting to hum, and has almost zero play when trying to test it by hand. not sure if it needs replacing or just a re torque and repack. but id rather just get it replaced and not worry about it anymore.
Im surprised no one has had experience with just ordering up the bearings...
other question is other than going to mercedes, what grease is recommended?
Im surprised no one has had experience with just ordering up the bearings...
other question is other than going to mercedes, what grease is recommended?
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03-03-2014, 01:46 PM
#10
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2007 AMG E63 Weistec S3, 2003 Porsche GT2 with 1375 rwhp
One tube will do. If you have to replace the bearings, and your car is anything like my 07 E63, the job is a real bear. It took 5 hours in my shop with all the tools necessary. It is not particularly difficult, but a lot has to get disconnected to remove the 2 bearings on each side. If you have any play, re-adjust and take out the play, then repack with grease. If the noise is still there then you can replace them.
03-03-2014, 04:19 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...nt-thread.html i
was going to use this DIY ,
im going to try to order the bearings that the kurtwz added part numbers to and see if they work. my cost will be $50 for 2 inners and 2 outers.
Outer: NTN ETA-LM12710-2 JAPAN HN
Inner: NTN ET 32008XPX | OV6 JAPAN HL
if not im going to use this kit,
was going to use this DIY ,
im going to try to order the bearings that the kurtwz added part numbers to and see if they work. my cost will be $50 for 2 inners and 2 outers.
Outer: NTN ETA-LM12710-2 JAPAN HN
Inner: NTN ET 32008XPX | OV6 JAPAN HL
if not im going to use this kit,
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 03-03-2014 at 04:35 PM.
03-03-2014, 04:47 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
anyone have a write up showing the best way to remove bearing from hub? i have most of the tools needed but always nice to see others experiences and tips vs learning the hard way.
03-03-2014, 05:25 PM
#17
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2007 AMG E63 Weistec S3, 2003 Porsche GT2 with 1375 rwhp
That part was pain. We used a press but the hub does not line cleanly so you will have to stabilize the hub and used different hub press tools to get it off. Not much help here, sorry. It took a lot of force to get them off.
03-05-2014, 01:20 PM
#18
Super Member
Thread Starter
so ive confirmed my wheel bearings are the culprit to my sloppy steering, darting, and humming. used the method in post number 4 to tighten things up as well as repacked outer bearing as it looked dry.
car drove so much better, but today on the way back to work it started to get noisy again. awaiting on new bearings to come in and will just redo them and hope it lasts.
does anyone have a better wheel bearing diy?
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...l-bearing.html
car drove so much better, but today on the way back to work it started to get noisy again. awaiting on new bearings to come in and will just redo them and hope it lasts.
does anyone have a better wheel bearing diy?
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...l-bearing.html
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 03-05-2014 at 01:49 PM.
03-05-2014, 02:35 PM
#19
Super Member
I saw when on YouTube but I'll let you search the videoshttp://m.youtube.com/results?q=merce...20bearing&sm=1 when you get to doing the job how about posting up some pictures so that way the next guy doesn't go through what you're going through
03-05-2014, 03:03 PM
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
i sent that vid to my buddy last summer for his clk. Cost a bit more to get the whole hub assembly than wheel bearing but was able to DIY itself with no problems. I made sure that he hand tighten and then back off the nut. No issues at all with his bearings since then.
03-05-2014, 04:50 PM
#22
Super Member
Thread Starter
watched that video a few days ago, hopefully next week i will have all my parts to do the job.
need to do my rear pads as well, going to order some akebonos, P.O. replaced the fronts with some oems recently but i hate the dust, might as well do the fronts while i got things apart ....
this the procedure i used from this member
need to do my rear pads as well, going to order some akebonos, P.O. replaced the fronts with some oems recently but i hate the dust, might as well do the fronts while i got things apart ....
this the procedure i used from this member
You are correct it is very easy to put too much preload on a bearing.
Here is how I do it and your results may vary. (I have never had a failure using my method but it is possible to have a failure) (my disclaimer
)
[1] I will rotate the hub while using a wrench to LIGHTLY snug up the bearing nut.
[2] Once the nut is snug I will back off the nut and tighten again VERY LIGHTLY. This is to take the bearing to ZERO 0.000" clearance.
[3] This time with the nut snug STOP rotating the hub.
[4] Back off the nut just enough so you can move it with your fingers.
[5] Then WITHOUT turning the hub tighten the nut to a light finger tight position then lock it in place.
Remember when the bearing heats up the internal clearance gets tighter and will increase the preload and pressures can exceed the film strength of the lubricant resulting in bearing failure.
Now this is how I do it and I won't recommend this to anyone. But for me
it works.
vettdvr.
Here is how I do it and your results may vary. (I have never had a failure using my method but it is possible to have a failure) (my disclaimer
)[1] I will rotate the hub while using a wrench to LIGHTLY snug up the bearing nut.
[2] Once the nut is snug I will back off the nut and tighten again VERY LIGHTLY. This is to take the bearing to ZERO 0.000" clearance.
[3] This time with the nut snug STOP rotating the hub.
[4] Back off the nut just enough so you can move it with your fingers.
[5] Then WITHOUT turning the hub tighten the nut to a light finger tight position then lock it in place.
Remember when the bearing heats up the internal clearance gets tighter and will increase the preload and pressures can exceed the film strength of the lubricant resulting in bearing failure.
Now this is how I do it and I won't recommend this to anyone. But for me
it works.vettdvr.
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 03-06-2014 at 08:44 AM.
