2nd set of billet spacers, and steering wheel shimmy is back
#1
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2nd set of billet spacers, and steering wheel shimmy is back
so i got rid of my my 5mm spacers and drove the car with out spacers and no shimmy .
got my new 10mm billet spacers in, used a height gauge on granite measuring table and they seemed to be within a few tenths.
cleaned the hub area, slipped the spacers on (snug fit) re installed wheels, torqued the lugs top bottom left right.
get on the high way and more miles im covering the more its starting to shimmy...
wtf!
with out spacers its smooth with spacers it shimmies. what the heck is going on? is the mounting face of my rotor out of whack?
got my new 10mm billet spacers in, used a height gauge on granite measuring table and they seemed to be within a few tenths.
cleaned the hub area, slipped the spacers on (snug fit) re installed wheels, torqued the lugs top bottom left right.
get on the high way and more miles im covering the more its starting to shimmy...
wtf!
with out spacers its smooth with spacers it shimmies. what the heck is going on? is the mounting face of my rotor out of whack?
#2
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
I assume your talking front wheel spacers.
Are you running spacers like this?
Or like these?
I've used the top ones (H&R) with no issues. There designed for the front axle. If your wheels arn't sitting properly on a hub they will vibrate. I'm guessing your lugs are centering your wheels. Or at least trying to.
Are you running spacers like this?
Or like these?
I've used the top ones (H&R) with no issues. There designed for the front axle. If your wheels arn't sitting properly on a hub they will vibrate. I'm guessing your lugs are centering your wheels. Or at least trying to.
#3
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2006 E55
Re-check lug torque now that you have put a few miles on them.
If you have a dealer/indy that you use, see if they will throw the car on the lift and measure run-out on the hub surface with a dial indicator.
If you have a dealer/indy that you use, see if they will throw the car on the lift and measure run-out on the hub surface with a dial indicator.
#4
I believe the front hub have a very slight taper to it. I've added 5mm spacers as well and noticed steering wheel vibration. I'm thinking you might be able to use some metal tape to compensate for the slight gap. That might do the trick!
#5
Senior Member
You definitely need hub centric spacers so the hub centers the wheel and not the lug nuts. The same thing will happen if you buy a set of wheels with a larger hub bore and you don't get hub centric rings for them.
#6
Yep, the front hub has a slight taper to it. The actual part of the hub where your hub bore or hub ring sits falls off the "shelf" after about 5mm
Im looking in to how to remedy this on my own car now. Might give the metal tape thing a try.
Im looking in to how to remedy this on my own car now. Might give the metal tape thing a try.
#7
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Thread Starter
they are hub less rings, 66.5 id, i dont think metal tape will work cause the tape will make the hub over sized for the spacer to fit over. i guess i can add tape before the spacer, so that the wheel sits tighter on the hub. i will attach a dial indicator to the hub and see ifi cant find any high spots.
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#9
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
I just don't get why people don't just buy the correct h&r spacers that are designed for the front of our cars.
#11
Super Member
had the same problems and its worse the larger the wheels 20 inch......
I bought the most expensive hub centric spacers from Germany that removed the need for the grease cap and I could never get rid of the vibration. They are sat in my garage where they belong.
I bought the most expensive hub centric spacers from Germany that removed the need for the grease cap and I could never get rid of the vibration. They are sat in my garage where they belong.