Removing SC, "while you're in there items",
#1
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Thread Starter
Removing SC, "while you're in there items",
Do the Phenolic Spacers make a difference to the IAT when placed under the SC? What other items are needed to be replaced while having the SC off?
#2
Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
#3
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'06 E55
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
#4
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Thread Starter
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
- VCG's (Frantically clean and paint them while I'm at it)
- Replace gaskets - if needed
- Remove SC
- Remove intake
- Replace CPS
- HE upgrade
- Bosch 010 Pump
- Wires & Plugs
- BWK
- TB upgrade
- Injectors cleaned
#5
Senior Member
If you separate the intercooler from the supercharger best to replace the 2 bypass valve gaskets. I have had CEL lights caused by reusing these 2 gaskets. Sucks when you have to pull the SC a second time for $8 worth of gaskets.
Part # 1131411080 & part # 2711411280
Part # 1131411080 & part # 2711411280
#6
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#8
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
I personally would replace the oil cooler gaskets even if they aren't leaking. I need to do mine and it's looking like I will have to remove the SC just to be able to access the 4 screws holding it together. My three piece seal ring kit has a part number of 112 184 99 61 - FE- KT
#12
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While we're on the topic, are there any special tools needed or a DIY thread somewhere that shows how to pull the SC? Can it be done by one person or do you need a buddy or a cherry picker?
#13
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'06 E55
Take pics of all the locations of the little hoses and things like that before beginning. I can do it in about an hour, so count on about 90 minutes if it's your first time.
I did a step-by-step write-up here once. I'll see if I can find it.
#14
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'06 E55
Found it: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6447573
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
#17
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Thread Starter
Is there any instructions on greasing the rear SC bearings and adding a catch can?
#18
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Thread Starter
I was able to remove the SC by myself thanks to Denroll's tips. I propped a 2x4 just in front of the SC while lifting it and then sliding the piece of wood underneath the SC. Slowly pulled the charger onto the wood making it a lot easier to grab. Once the SC is closer to your body it's a piece of cake lifting it and placing it on your workbench.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you have an engine puller handy, do yourself a favor and make a plate to suspend the SC from it. I recently had mine out to change the bypass throttle and add an 82mm snout. Pulling it out by hand was not so hard with my son lifting one side while I got the other. However, faced with re-installing it on my own, I modified I lifting plate (bolt-on in place of carb style) to fit the SC and it was a BREEZE putting it back in by myself.
While I had it out I also added a port on one plenum for a boost gauge sender (to be installed later) AND I wish I had replaced the MAP sensor.
Cheers,
Chris
While I had it out I also added a port on one plenum for a boost gauge sender (to be installed later) AND I wish I had replaced the MAP sensor.
Cheers,
Chris
#20
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'06 E55
^Good idea. If you don't have an engine hoist, you can use some metal rods that go through the bolt holes to use as guides. Use vice grips on the rods to hold the supercharger in place while you connect the hoses.
Since I went with 3/4" hose to the intercooler, I made the hoses a little longer than necessary so I can move the supercharger into an easier place to connect/disconnect the hoses.
Check the posts around the middle of November 2015 in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...filling-3.html
Since I went with 3/4" hose to the intercooler, I made the hoses a little longer than necessary so I can move the supercharger into an easier place to connect/disconnect the hoses.
#22
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
Found it: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6447573
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
Also, Do you have torque specs handy for when it's time to bolt everything up or do you go by feel?
Almost feel like I should invest in a time trial for the WIS lol
I'm gathering a shopping list for when I undertake this project in the sping and this is what I have made up so far. Feel free to let me know if I need to add something or remove unnecessary..
Rheotemp 500 grease for rear bearings.. Ebay
MAP sensor # 005 153 72 28
Crankshaft Position Sensor #003 153 28 28
Mercedes pre mixed coolant
Fuel dampener O rings.. - I can't find these on EPC either.. Are they the same as the injector o rings or am I looking in the wrong place?
Fuel injector O rings (8) # A 019 997 13 48
OEM intake air filters (I have K&N and am going to switch back)
Electronic gas actuator to intake gasket #112 141 13 80 (Is this necessary?)
Intake Air Temperature sensor (Can't find part number)
SC to head gasket (lower gasket) X2 #113 141 09 80
SC intercooler bypass valve gaskets
# 113 141 10 80 (1) / # 271 141 12 80 (1)
SC intake gasket # 113 141 07 80
Surge hose (Are these necessary?) X2
# 113 094 20 82
Surge tank gasket
# 113 098 00 80 (1) / # 113 098 01 90 (1)
#25
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2005 E55, 2009 VW GLI
Replace the diaphragm (fuel damper). There is a screen filter within it that can get quite dirty. It will also come with an o-ring.
Here is mine after 105k miles:
You will also need 16 injector o-rings. Air temperature sensor part number is 006-153-80-28.
Here is mine after 105k miles:
You will also need 16 injector o-rings. Air temperature sensor part number is 006-153-80-28.