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Removing SC, "while you're in there items",

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Old 01-06-2016, 02:17 PM
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E55, Granturismo, F430, 993, E39, Jag
Removing SC, "while you're in there items",

Do the Phenolic Spacers make a difference to the IAT when placed under the SC? What other items are needed to be replaced while having the SC off?
Old 01-06-2016, 02:20 PM
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Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
Old 01-06-2016, 03:06 PM
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'06 E55
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?

Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Old 01-07-2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNobody
Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
The MAP is a great idea since it's a real ball buster to access. I searched but can't find the updated MAP sensor. I'm assuming replacing the sensor with a stock one is good enough?
Originally Posted by Denroll
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?

Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Absolutely! Excellent references. Here's my work in progress:
  • VCG's (Frantically clean and paint them while I'm at it)
  • Replace gaskets - if needed
  • Remove SC
  • Remove intake
  • Replace CPS
  • HE upgrade
  • Bosch 010 Pump
  • Wires & Plugs
  • BWK
  • TB upgrade
  • Injectors cleaned
I'm planning to add a catch and look at the SC intercooler. I need to research this a bit more...Are there and DIY for these items? Is changing the SC oil recommended/necessary @ 80K?
Old 01-07-2016, 01:28 PM
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2005 E55, 2007 ML63, 2008 SLK, 2015 GLK350, BMW Z3, Dodge Power Wagon, Electric Smart car
If you separate the intercooler from the supercharger best to replace the 2 bypass valve gaskets. I have had CEL lights caused by reusing these 2 gaskets. Sucks when you have to pull the SC a second time for $8 worth of gaskets.
Part # 1131411080 & part # 2711411280
Old 01-07-2016, 04:36 PM
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E55, Granturismo, F430, 993, E39, Jag
Originally Posted by JoeNobody
Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
Hi Joe...Is this it??? http://www.davesdiscountautoparts.co...sch/0261230191 or this http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bosch-0261230...826?rmvSB=true
Old 01-07-2016, 07:13 PM
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
EPC says part # A 005 153 72 28 for the Manifold Air Pressure sensor

Last edited by Bean93x; 01-07-2016 at 07:28 PM.
Old 01-07-2016, 07:26 PM
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
I personally would replace the oil cooler gaskets even if they aren't leaking. I need to do mine and it's looking like I will have to remove the SC just to be able to access the 4 screws holding it together. My three piece seal ring kit has a part number of 112 184 99 61 - FE- KT
Old 01-07-2016, 07:47 PM
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E55 and several 928s
Some pretty good info here.

I'd say any rubber you meet, you replace.
Old 01-07-2016, 09:00 PM
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If your ever planning on doing a upgraded throttle body this is the time to do it . Unless you want to pull the sc again later.
Old 01-07-2016, 10:39 PM
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You found it. Bosch part 0261230191

I bought one a year ago, and I'll eventually get around to installing it
Old 01-08-2016, 12:39 AM
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While we're on the topic, are there any special tools needed or a DIY thread somewhere that shows how to pull the SC? Can it be done by one person or do you need a buddy or a cherry picker?
Old 01-08-2016, 03:14 PM
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'06 E55
Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
While we're on the topic, are there any special tools needed or a DIY thread somewhere that shows how to pull the SC? Can it be done by one person or do you need a buddy or a cherry picker?
No special tools required. I've removed the sc several times by myself, but I make Arnold look like Stephen Hawking.

Take pics of all the locations of the little hoses and things like that before beginning. I can do it in about an hour, so count on about 90 minutes if it's your first time.

I did a step-by-step write-up here once. I'll see if I can find it.
Old 01-08-2016, 03:21 PM
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'06 E55
Found it: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6447573

It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...

-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.

It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
Old 01-08-2016, 04:33 PM
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Awesome Thanks Dman!!!
Old 01-08-2016, 06:05 PM
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Thanks Denroll, I'll see if my human-sized muscles can get the job done. ;-)
Old 01-12-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?

Would also be a good time to...check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Is there any instructions on greasing the rear SC bearings and adding a catch can?
Old 01-12-2016, 10:14 AM
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I was able to remove the SC by myself thanks to Denroll's tips. I propped a 2x4 just in front of the SC while lifting it and then sliding the piece of wood underneath the SC. Slowly pulled the charger onto the wood making it a lot easier to grab. Once the SC is closer to your body it's a piece of cake lifting it and placing it on your workbench.
Old 01-12-2016, 04:59 PM
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If you have an engine puller handy, do yourself a favor and make a plate to suspend the SC from it. I recently had mine out to change the bypass throttle and add an 82mm snout. Pulling it out by hand was not so hard with my son lifting one side while I got the other. However, faced with re-installing it on my own, I modified I lifting plate (bolt-on in place of carb style) to fit the SC and it was a BREEZE putting it back in by myself.

While I had it out I also added a port on one plenum for a boost gauge sender (to be installed later) AND I wish I had replaced the MAP sensor.

Cheers,
Chris
Attached Thumbnails Removing SC, "while you're in there items",-20151121_103037-1-.jpg  
Old 01-13-2016, 03:14 PM
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'06 E55
^Good idea. If you don't have an engine hoist, you can use some metal rods that go through the bolt holes to use as guides. Use vice grips on the rods to hold the supercharger in place while you connect the hoses.

Since I went with 3/4" hose to the intercooler, I made the hoses a little longer than necessary so I can move the supercharger into an easier place to connect/disconnect the hoses.



Originally Posted by djempirE55
Is there any instructions on greasing the rear SC bearings and adding a catch can?
Check the posts around the middle of November 2015 in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...filling-3.html
Old 01-13-2016, 04:35 PM
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Excellent tip. How many bolts are holding the SC down and are they the same sizes?
Old 01-26-2016, 07:45 PM
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
Originally Posted by Denroll
Found it: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6447573

It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...

-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.

It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
Is there a rubber boot for each inlet or is it a single gasket? I want to replace mine when I pull my SC off but I can't seem to find anything that resembles a single boot on EPC. All I can find is a gasket for both the right and left side. Do you have a part number or something for reference?

Also, Do you have torque specs handy for when it's time to bolt everything up or do you go by feel?

Almost feel like I should invest in a time trial for the WIS lol

I'm gathering a shopping list for when I undertake this project in the sping and this is what I have made up so far. Feel free to let me know if I need to add something or remove unnecessary..

Rheotemp 500 grease for rear bearings.. Ebay

MAP sensor # 005 153 72 28

Crankshaft Position Sensor #003 153 28 28

Mercedes pre mixed coolant

Fuel dampener O rings.. - I can't find these on EPC either.. Are they the same as the injector o rings or am I looking in the wrong place?

Fuel injector O rings (8) # A 019 997 13 48

OEM intake air filters (I have K&N and am going to switch back)

Electronic gas actuator to intake gasket #112 141 13 80 (Is this necessary?)

Intake Air Temperature sensor (Can't find part number)

SC to head gasket (lower gasket) X2 #113 141 09 80

SC intercooler bypass valve gaskets
# 113 141 10 80 (1) / # 271 141 12 80 (1)

SC intake gasket # 113 141 07 80

Surge hose (Are these necessary?) X2
# 113 094 20 82

Surge tank gasket
# 113 098 00 80 (1) / # 113 098 01 90 (1)
Old 01-26-2016, 09:14 PM
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E55
mercedes coolant is not pre mixed fyi
Old 01-26-2016, 10:09 PM
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
Originally Posted by Rocman8
mercedes coolant is not pre mixed fyi
Did not know that. I haven't bought any from the dealer yet, just following the sticker on the coolant reservoir.
Old 01-27-2016, 12:40 PM
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Replace the diaphragm (fuel damper). There is a screen filter within it that can get quite dirty. It will also come with an o-ring.

Here is mine after 105k miles:



You will also need 16 injector o-rings. Air temperature sensor part number is 006-153-80-28.


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