Replaced all front bushings, still hear slight clicking noise going over speed bump.
#26
Senior Member
Can you post back and let us know if this is an easy DIY? I think the C-Class guys can replace these bushings w/o needing to remove the rack or disconnect outer tie-rod end....
#27
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#28
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I do currently have some nose in the front suspension...
Which was greatly diminished by the new inner/outer tie rod ends I did about a week ago (I could have gotten away with just the pass. side inner tie rod which got destroyed after a 3/4" tear in the boot allowed **** to get in there, but I figured I'd replace them all.)
...with just over 70k miles now, I figure the whole front end deserves a refresh...
Upper/Lower Ball Joints.
Control Arms
Thrust Arms
Sway Bar End Links
Steering Rack Bushings
Which was greatly diminished by the new inner/outer tie rod ends I did about a week ago (I could have gotten away with just the pass. side inner tie rod which got destroyed after a 3/4" tear in the boot allowed **** to get in there, but I figured I'd replace them all.)
...with just over 70k miles now, I figure the whole front end deserves a refresh...
Upper/Lower Ball Joints.
Control Arms
Thrust Arms
Sway Bar End Links
Steering Rack Bushings
#29
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what noise exactly? Can you be more specific? I think it could other who may read this later also.
Clickity clack noises or squeaking or?
Clickity clack noises or squeaking or?
#30
Senior Member
Not a squeaky noise (which is usually associated with ball joints, right?), but a 'clicking' noise, particularly when going over speedbumps.
But the bushings in my control arms are visually old/cracked so I can't really pinpoint it on once certain item just yet... And at this point, 10 year old rubber probably could use a refresh.
But the bushings in my control arms are visually old/cracked so I can't really pinpoint it on once certain item just yet... And at this point, 10 year old rubber probably could use a refresh.
#31
Senior Member
I'll definitely post back with pics! The GF is out of town for the weekend, so I can finally get some alone time with the garage.
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Max.H (04-08-2016)
#32
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Everything I've read has suggested that it is related to the sway bar, and particularly to bushings that cannot be replaced. I think greasing will be a decent temporary solution, with the permanent-ish solution being a new sway bar.
#33
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'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
I have the same issues even after replacing upper and lower controls, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar end links, thrust arms and alignment.. It's annoying. Let me know if you find a solution
#34
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Not a squeaky noise (which is usually associated with ball joints, right?), but a 'clicking' noise, particularly when going over speedbumps.
But the bushings in my control arms are visually old/cracked so I can't really pinpoint it on once certain item just yet... And at this point, 10 year old rubber probably could use a refresh.
But the bushings in my control arms are visually old/cracked so I can't really pinpoint it on once certain item just yet... And at this point, 10 year old rubber probably could use a refresh.
I'm about to order the steering rack bushings now along with new steering end links inner and outer and sway bar end links.
#35
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Your theory seems logical also. Sway bar could be possibility too but it would have to be metal to metal contact. It's not a squeak.. I had some squeak but that got resolved with replacing all the ball joints upper and lower.
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Max.H (04-09-2016)
#37
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2005 E55, 2009 VW GLI
As Bob mentioned, it's probably your sway bar. What has probably happened is your driver side bushing has come off of the sway bar and is now slapping against the sway bar mounting bracket when going over uneven surfaces. The bushing is encased in a composite shell and will make an audible sound when hitting a metal surface.
Pull on your sway bar before replacing parts. You'll have to replace the sway bar if it slides in and out of the bushing. The video below is from a different vehicle, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Fast forward to 1:25.
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/...s-range-rover/
You could also drive around without your sway bar links to help isolate the sway bar and the steering gear.
-OA
Pull on your sway bar before replacing parts. You'll have to replace the sway bar if it slides in and out of the bushing. The video below is from a different vehicle, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Fast forward to 1:25.
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/...s-range-rover/
You could also drive around without your sway bar links to help isolate the sway bar and the steering gear.
-OA
Last edited by O-55; 04-08-2016 at 08:08 PM.
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Max.H (04-09-2016)
#38
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#39
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As Bob mentioned, it's probably your sway bar. What has probably happened is your driver side bushing has come off of the sway bar and is now slapping against the sway bar mounting bracket when going over uneven surfaces. The bushing is encased in a composite shell and will make an audible sound when hitting a metal surface.
Pull on your sway bar before replacing parts. You'll have to replace the sway bar if it slides in and out of the bushing. The video below is from a different vehicle, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Fast forward to 1:25.
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/...s-range-rover/
You could also drive around without your sway bar links to help isolate the sway bar and the steering gear.
-OA
Pull on your sway bar before replacing parts. You'll have to replace the sway bar if it slides in and out of the bushing. The video below is from a different vehicle, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Fast forward to 1:25.
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/...s-range-rover/
You could also drive around without your sway bar links to help isolate the sway bar and the steering gear.
-OA
Do they sell new sway bar bushings? Or can they be sourced from energy suspension? Maybe, they are universal type of bushing that energy suspension carries? Not sure..
New sway bar sounds expensive.. Any recommendations?
Last edited by Max.H; 04-09-2016 at 11:02 PM.
#42
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I just had the airmatic pump filter replaced. I'll have another look. I guess I'll try to move the airmatic pump around and try to replicate sound and do a visual. I guess replacing those too won't hurt.
#43
Senior Member
Mine is coming from there too. My sway bar bushings seem perfectly fine with no gap and no play. Like I said, MB claimed it was my airmatic but I don't think so. I get no drop from air loss over 2 days sitting in any suspension mode. I never hear my pump cut on when I open the door. They also said all my control arms and ball joints were perfect. It drives me mad!
#44
Sounds like airmatic pump might be the cause. Yes visually check the pump bracket and look for rust or damage bracket. If worn out the pump will rattle around in the bracket itself. It took two mechanics before they found this problem on my E55 (and of course the replacement springs are too damn small, making he problem worse). We added some washers to tighten up the springs and that fixed it.
#47
Senior Member
Thanks, I will have a look. My noise sounds like it coming from up top in the bay somewhere. At first I thought it was the dash popping or something. Sounds as if it could be coming from the top of the airmatic. But not sure what that could be if it were in fact the airmatic like MB said. I bought a used 8k mile Arnott just in case but haven't wanted to just throw it in without doing my due diligence to see if it's something else I can track down. I am not a fan of just throwing parts at a problem.
#48
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2007 Mercedes E550
Replaced my thrust arms, Top and Bottom ball joints. Car rides great and super smooth! BUt, still hear a slight clicking noise from front left side when going over speed bumps. It was much worse before and you could hear the clicking at low speeds.
The old ball joints were all pretty bad.
Anyone ran into this before? I'm thinking it's sway bar end link? I can re grease the sway bar bushings and change end links.
Sorry if this specific question has been asked before.
The old ball joints were all pretty bad.
Anyone ran into this before? I'm thinking it's sway bar end link? I can re grease the sway bar bushings and change end links.
Sorry if this specific question has been asked before.
Did you check torque specs on end links? Had the same issue and had a couple "mechanics" check to no avail. It wasn't until I tested my digital torque wrench that I found the links were only about 10 ft lbs. Tightened them to 35 ft lbs and click went away! The sway bar brackets should be 25 ft lbs btw
#49
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Hey Buddy,
Did you check torque specs on end links? Had the same issue and had a couple "mechanics" check to no avail. It wasn't until I tested my digital torque wrench that I found the links were only about 10 ft lbs. Tightened them to 35 ft lbs and click went away! The sway bar brackets should be 25 ft lbs btw
Did you check torque specs on end links? Had the same issue and had a couple "mechanics" check to no avail. It wasn't until I tested my digital torque wrench that I found the links were only about 10 ft lbs. Tightened them to 35 ft lbs and click went away! The sway bar brackets should be 25 ft lbs btw
#50
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That noise is almost certainly the sway bar bushings Max.
It seems unlikely at first because it's definitely more of a "click " sound than you'd expect from a bad bushing ,but give this a try first. Get a can of synthetic lubricant (I used royal purple) that has a little red tube you can stick in the cap for small areas. Jack up the front of the car and turn the wheel all the way to one side, and you'll see the sway bar bushings where they mount to the frame. There's a tiny opening in the side of the bushing where you can fit that little red tube into. Soak it until it runs out the other side, then spray the sway bar end links also while you're there. You may have to drive it around the block and repeat, depending how dried out it is.
I drive my E daily, and have had to lube those bushings twice in the past 14 months, but it definitely works at least for a while. Replacing the sway bar is on my "to do" list, but since there's a 5 minute/$5 fix, that job isn't even on the top 30 for now
It seems unlikely at first because it's definitely more of a "click " sound than you'd expect from a bad bushing ,but give this a try first. Get a can of synthetic lubricant (I used royal purple) that has a little red tube you can stick in the cap for small areas. Jack up the front of the car and turn the wheel all the way to one side, and you'll see the sway bar bushings where they mount to the frame. There's a tiny opening in the side of the bushing where you can fit that little red tube into. Soak it until it runs out the other side, then spray the sway bar end links also while you're there. You may have to drive it around the block and repeat, depending how dried out it is.
I drive my E daily, and have had to lube those bushings twice in the past 14 months, but it definitely works at least for a while. Replacing the sway bar is on my "to do" list, but since there's a 5 minute/$5 fix, that job isn't even on the top 30 for now
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Max.H (04-17-2016)