Shaky ass end *UPD Adj Arms*
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06 E55 Wagon, 98 Land Cruiser, Custom tube chassis race car
Shaky *** end *UPD Adj Arms*
So I have a 2006 E55 Wagon. Lowered with star just a bit. But with 19x10 +30 Niche's in the rear with 295 PSS. This setup required a ton of camber, thus why we added the UPD arms. Now the car is trying to kill me everytime I get on the throttle hard. Rear is a bit toe-out (but even side to side) and it's got almost 3 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
Any ideas on why this car is trying to kill me?
Any ideas on why this car is trying to kill me?
#4
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3° of negative camber should not be causing your issue, but you shouldn't see over -2° with the arms and a cross camber of close to 0°. I'm more interested in your toe values.
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HeissRod (04-05-2016)
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
With wheels and tires that wide, now you're looking at needing to pull the lower control arm towards the centerline of the car. That will keep the upper portion of the tire from hitting the fender, pull the camber back towards the stock values, and cause the toe adjuster arm to "push" the rear of the wheel outward (thus providing toe-in). Right now the toe adjuster arm is too short for the amount of camber you have.
At this time, since you've maxed out the UPD adjustability, I'd recommend you contact Kevin at KMac in Australia and see if he will sell you just the control arm adjustable pivot bushing (no need to purchase his toe adjuster bushing as you already installed the UPD version). The KMac bushing will let you pull the lower control arm inward to the point your UPD toe adjuster arm is at a point you can adjust toe to the proper value (use the search engine).
FWIW, I have a 15 or 16-page writeup in the "tech section" on installing the KMac bushings in the rear. Using the UPD toe adjuster arm is going to be easier than the KMac version (because the KMac is hampered by the stock Mercedes limited-range adjustment).
Like HeissRod said, target no more than about a negative 2 degrees camber.
At this time, since you've maxed out the UPD adjustability, I'd recommend you contact Kevin at KMac in Australia and see if he will sell you just the control arm adjustable pivot bushing (no need to purchase his toe adjuster bushing as you already installed the UPD version). The KMac bushing will let you pull the lower control arm inward to the point your UPD toe adjuster arm is at a point you can adjust toe to the proper value (use the search engine).
FWIW, I have a 15 or 16-page writeup in the "tech section" on installing the KMac bushings in the rear. Using the UPD toe adjuster arm is going to be easier than the KMac version (because the KMac is hampered by the stock Mercedes limited-range adjustment).
Like HeissRod said, target no more than about a negative 2 degrees camber.
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HeissRod (04-05-2016)
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With wheels and tires that wide, now you're looking at needing to pull the lower control arm towards the centerline of the car. That will keep the upper portion of the tire from hitting the fender, pull the camber back towards the stock values, and cause the toe adjuster arm to "push" the rear of the wheel outward (thus providing toe-in). Right now the toe adjuster arm is too short for the amount of camber you have.
At this time, since you've maxed out the UPD adjustability, I'd recommend you contact Kevin at KMac in Australia and see if he will sell you just the control arm adjustable pivot bushing (no need to purchase his toe adjuster bushing as you already installed the UPD version). The KMac bushing will let you pull the lower control arm inward to the point your UPD toe adjuster arm is at a point you can adjust toe to the proper value (use the search engine).
FWIW, I have a 15 or 16-page writeup in the "tech section" on installing the KMac bushings in the rear. Using the UPD toe adjuster arm is going to be easier than the KMac version (because the KMac is hampered by the stock Mercedes limited-range adjustment).
Like HeissRod said, target no more than about a negative 2 degrees camber.
At this time, since you've maxed out the UPD adjustability, I'd recommend you contact Kevin at KMac in Australia and see if he will sell you just the control arm adjustable pivot bushing (no need to purchase his toe adjuster bushing as you already installed the UPD version). The KMac bushing will let you pull the lower control arm inward to the point your UPD toe adjuster arm is at a point you can adjust toe to the proper value (use the search engine).
FWIW, I have a 15 or 16-page writeup in the "tech section" on installing the KMac bushings in the rear. Using the UPD toe adjuster arm is going to be easier than the KMac version (because the KMac is hampered by the stock Mercedes limited-range adjustment).
Like HeissRod said, target no more than about a negative 2 degrees camber.
Yes can purchase the rear lower arm inner/replacement bushes by themselves for Camber.
Precise adjustment and design allows to be carried out on vehicle – accurately (underload) direct on alignment rack.
Comes with bush extraction tool allowing OEM bushes to be changed and the new K-MAC bushes installed without need to remove the lower arms from vehicle.
Complete rear kit including the adjustable Toe bushings is $480.
So without the Toe bushes can supply at $330
DHL air freight (average delivery time 3 days) $30
NOTE: Existing factory rear Toe adjustment travel is 6mm – the K-MAC bushes double this range to 12mm.
Can pay by Visa, MasterCard or PayPal.
#10
I agree with above posts. Get toe set correctly.
I had same problem. After my install had slightly above zero toe. Driving down interstate at 65 I nail it to pass slower car and about went into there quarter panel. Got alignment dialed in and I'm all good now.
I had same problem. After my install had slightly above zero toe. Driving down interstate at 65 I nail it to pass slower car and about went into there quarter panel. Got alignment dialed in and I'm all good now.