rolling with punches lately.... grinding under hard acceleration from stop.
 

so was turning into a street, got on it as there was a car closer than expected, hit a small pot hole and heard a bang and followed by a grinding/vibration from by the feet.

didnt think much of it until i was at another traffic light and needed to get in the left lane so i got on it again and low and behold the vibration/grinding by my feet /trans tunnel area is present again.

this is only at low speeds/stop. havent had a chance to check anything yet, was hoping to get some insite before i put the car on the lift.

From what im reading could be diff/motor/trans mounts, checked my subframe bushings last week all looked well but with my luck as of late anything is possible.

Get under car & take some pics, who knows what kind of damage a pot hole could create. Snapped suspension, broken mounts or exhaust etc.. the list goes on. Hopefully something relatively minor!

Check the inner rim as well. Best to put it up on a lift. Hopefully you didn't bust a motor or trans mount.

rims are fine, wasnt a big pot hole, hell im not even sure i hit a pothole could of been a crack in the pavement, but felt like a bump and then heard something and got the vibration/shutter. drove the car 100 miles home since this happened and it drives normal at partial throttle, to replicate this vibration i need to really get on it, is the easiest to do in 1st gear from a dig,.

so im out of ideas, motor mounts and all 4 bolts are good, i stuck a transmission jack and a piece of wood under the engine and lifted slowly, everything stayed in tact and started to lift the car. the rear trans mount seems ok as well, subframe bushings look ok and are tight against the frame, all bolts are there, minimal play with pry bar.

i have 1 questionable diff mount that looks like it might have a tear where the metal meets the rubber but my vibration is up front seems like .

the only other thing i can think of is the center support bushing on the drive shaft, i see no tears but the bearing is definitely sagging toward the bottom, the bushing that keeps it all together has about a 1/2" gap at 12 o clock and at 6 position 1/8" and does have a significant amount of play. I do remember my e36 M3 had a similar issue a with a TORN CSB .

Drive Shaft center support bearing is bad would be my guess.

You can't tell about the tranny mount by looking at it. Mine looked fine but I got wheel hop during burnouts. It's probably not the problem, but it's cheap and easy to put in while you're there.

added pics of CSB how does one tell if bearing is indeed going or bushing is worn?

I had vibration from a stop some time ago. My rear flex disc was shot and the front disc was showing signs of fatigue. Vibration went away once I replaced both discs, the carrier, and bearing.

Your driveshaft boot appears to be torn from the pics you uploaded. The driveshaft splines need to be lubricated properly to allow the rear section to slide back and forth easily.

screw it, guess im going to order transmission mount, both flex discs and csb. i wonder when im going to run out of parts to replace on this toilet...... lol

thoughts on this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/front-Center...pTl4Yx&vxp=mtr

well removed the Drive Shaft, and inspected the Center support bushing/bearing and all looks well. ordered new parts regardless but the bearing they sent me is for a 30mm DS not 32mm. so repacked the original bearing as i dont see anything wrong with it and re installed with new CSB. also FLEX discs look good, a little dry but not cracking and everything looks to be snug.

only part that is showing signs of wear and tear is the trans mount, attached pics.

with this said other than the trans mount everything looks ok, so if i reinstall all this stuff and still have a issue what is next on the list of things to check?

car has 67k on it, replaced trans filter, trans/diff fluid 15k miles ago.

pics

That Trans mount is your problem. It's looking real bad. Get the solid mount from the 212 E63

fack, already ordered a oem one, at least its a quick fix. will reinstall everything today and report back.

also, do i need to preload the CSB or just install it in the same position as the original?

Just FYI if the engine mounts are worn then the new Trans mount will collapse and bottom out in no time. You can check with a mirror how low its sitting once installed.

i thoroughly checked the engine mounts they are both dry no signs of leaking fluid, i will look into replacing the engine mounts once i get the rest of my bugs worked out, thanks for your help.

So the vibration is still there, now I feel my shifter moving back and fourth when accelerating harder from a stop or low rpm . 99% sure I triple checked Everything.

whats next? motor mounts?

well did the 2000rpm in drive, brake test and low and behold engine shifts up 2" .. new motor mounts it is.

Make sure you buy the correct mounts, a lot of places sell regular E350 mounts for the AMG and they will last you a whooping 20k miles before giving up

Mine lasted about 20k, I'll check the part #.

please do, these are the ones i bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-r23...hXNapk&vxp=mtr

220-240-27-17-98-M270 This is what I got. $43 at pelican parts. Cortico, which is OEM. Didn't last a year.
I read on here somewhere that 80001098 is cortico's part # for high hp. ????

im starting to worry cause these idiots sent me a w210 212 240 03 18 trans mount because it cross-references to "fit", instead of Mercedes W212 E63 SL63 Transmission Mount Febi Bilstein 212 240 10 18 which is suppose to be solid.

that number you gave me is http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...1098+&_sacat=0

Yeah the 43 dollar ones that pelican parts send out are for the non kompressor engine. They are advertising the mb part number but you actually get them in a coteco box with a coteco part number and it's the wrong one even though they fit. If getting coteco then our cars take part 80001089 which pelican parts also sells.

And the Trans mount issue sucks too cause pretty much every mercedes car for the past 2 decades uses the same size/shape/bolt patter Trans mount so they will fit but they all have different hardnesses. The solid Trans mount is the way to go though.