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Yeah, it's normal. I hit up everyone I could about it because I felt my car's oil temp ran a little hot. Posted about it here, on PL and had many discussion about it with the lead AMG tech at my local dealer whose also a friend and helps keep my car tip-top. He checked with the factory guys as well. For example, I'm in Texas and on cool nights my oil temp would hit as high as 123c at about 70F ambient outside temp while driving at a steady 30mph though my hilly neighborhood. If I got on the road with more air flow, the temps would drop back down. My typical on hot days with no a/c is about 103c - 105c on the highway and can climb to 113c or so if cruising around town. In cooler weather, temps will read 100c-102c on highway but will also climb to 110c around town. Airflow is key to temp fluctuation. I was concerned because some others here seemed to run at a lower typical oil temp.
Consensus by all those I queried was all is normal; your situation is also. Typically, if temp gets out of whack and causing problems, sensors will throw a code.
mine operates between 105c and 110c, but a lot of times likes to hover around 100c...in the summertime between 109c and 115-119c...when I'm in stop and go traffic is when it runs real hot...when I actually open it up and give it gas it seems like the fans or something turns on because even in traffic the temp starts dropping as I'm in traffic.
These operating temps are reassuring to hear. If I run my transmission in auto the temps usually hover around 90-95 (winter). As soon as I switch to manual/ paddle shift and hit 3,000 revs they go up to 105-110. During the summer I remember hitting 125 on paddle shift mode and the fan usually hummed loud.
Vadim so what was the verdict? and how much did it hurt money wise?
Hey I have the same problems. How much did you pay for it ? Thanks
So the car is in the shop. I get a call from the manager telling me that the job is a lot harder then they expected. He was able to remove 8 head bolts from one side and 6 from the other. 2 head bolts have broken heads and are stuck. He said he is unable to remove the Actual head because there is not enough room. He will have to drop the engine to remove the head. I know the price will change now.
I came to the shop to find my Engine on the floor. (Almost Cried)
W211 E63 Engine Dissembled
You Could see the stuck head bolt on the right side.
W211 E63 engine torn apart. Head Bolt stuck
Ill Keep udating you guys as it gets more expensive.
So the car is in the shop. I get a call from the manager telling me that the job is a lot harder then they expected. He was able to remove 8 head bolts from one side and 6 from the other. 2 head bolts have broken heads and are stuck. He said he is unable to remove the Actual head because there is not enough room. He will have to drop the engine to remove the head. I know the price will change now.
I came to the shop to find my Engine on the floor. (Almost Cried)
W211 E63 Engine Dissembled
You Could see the stuck head bolt on the right side.
W211 E63 engine torn apart. Head Bolt stuck
Ill Keep udating you guys as it gets more expensive.
hey sorry how much did pay for it ? I have the same problems
hey sorry how much did pay for it ? I have the same problems
Call your shop/dealer and ask? Without knowing your location or what you pay for labor it's impossible to say. It's expensive.
FWIW, my housemate (he works at an indy) is going to be doing mine soon. I think it's a bit over $200 for a complete set of the updated head bolts at his cost. I'm giving him a month of free rent to do the job and a couple of other mods that need installing (lowing links, rear diffuser).
Makes me think I should just go ahead and do mine. I pulled the valve covers to install MBH headers and can see the older style bolts looking up at me.
Sorry to hear about your problems, Vadim. I hope it works fine now and you didn't spend a fortune. Many people are talking about changing them as a preventative action. I was in authorized MB center today (not stealership) here in MA.
Asked them about it and wanted to find out the price. They said "it doesn't happen that often, don't waste your money, as it costs a lot". I am ready to spend a grand or two for preventative work, but not ready to spend more than that. I guess will hope it never happens to me.
Yeah, it's normal. I hit up everyone I could about it because I felt my car's oil temp ran a little hot. Posted about it here, on PL and had many discussion about it with the lead AMG tech at my local dealer whose also a friend and helps keep my car tip-top. He checked with the factory guys as well. For example, I'm in Texas and on cool nights my oil temp would hit as high as 123c at about 70F ambient outside temp while driving at a steady 30mph though my hilly neighborhood. If I got on the road with more air flow, the temps would drop back down. My typical on hot days with no a/c is about 103c - 105c on the highway and can climb to 113c or so if cruising around town. In cooler weather, temps will read 100c-102c on highway but will also climb to 110c around town. Airflow is key to temp fluctuation. I was concerned because some others here seemed to run at a lower typical oil temp.
Consensus by all those I queried was all is normal; your situation is also. Typically, if temp gets out of whack and causing problems, sensors will throw a code.
I'm of the opinion that changing the engine coolant often, has a lot of due with the contaminants that effects the head bolts. As I've owned three AMG's now with the M156 engine, and haven't experienced this phenomena.
It's not only good practice, but essential to the overall health of your engine. As you eliminate the contaminants that eat away at the bolts. I recommend a engine flush and coolant change every two years, which is normally every four years.
But this is what I do, the choice is yours.
I’ve been reading up on headbolts threads and can’t find the torque specs for the bolts if you are doing one at a time. 90nm plus 270 degrees for a fresh head gasket but haven’t been able to find out if the new bolts and old head gasket use the same specs. I’m collecting parts, and researching untill all the parts arrive.
Vadim, I live in Arizona and it has gotten up to 50c here a few times. My '09 has 56,000m about 94,000k on it and the engine stays between 95 and 100c on the oil temp all the time.
It climbed to 107c once when I was driving up to Mt. Charleston near Las Vegas so I installed two small electric fans and a switch into the heater hose with a 160f temp sending unit.
I use 10w60 Liqui-Moly oil and add Ceratec every 10k. I change all the fluids on the car every three years and it runs great. The cams are clean since I checked them with a recent plug change.
These engines are like F1 engines and require above average maintenance regardless of driving style. Only above average (more frequent than factory states) will keep you running good over time.
If you want a Chevy or a Ford then buy one to drive to work and reserve the M156 for weekend use but keep it maintained religiously or you will get bit again. If you install new cams get them treated
with WPC treatment and install M159 buckets, this along with later style head bolts, or ARP studs with billet idler pulleys and a 185 thermostat will make the engine a companion for life. IMHO..
The head bolts in my E63 are getting done this Sunday. My mechanic's cost on the updated ones wasn't much over $100 for the complete set. They're made be Ehlinger (something like that, can't remember).
I'll be sure to take pics while he's doing it. He's doing them 1 at a time. The car is also getting new plugs since he'll be in there and lowering links will be installed if there's time. Also have to figure out the extremely annoying heat shield rattle that I have under load at part throttle.
Would like to know how he is installing the head bolts, my Benz Tech buddy says to use grease on the bolts, seems like most are using high temp RTV. Also what is he using for torque values. 90NM and then a 270 degree turn? Would be great if you could get this info and pass it along. I have seen a few folks claim to use the same values as old bolts, but the way that would work would be removing the heads and 3 90 degree turns going across all the bolts until 270 degree turn is completed. Most claiming this way have not done the job themselves as far as I can tell.
Usually new head bolts and many other engine fasteners are specified to torque the bolt dry to obtain required value ... using RTV is a bad idea ... what is the goal anti-seize or thread locking? RTV should not be used for either. replacing a bolt one at a time ... not going to replace the head gasket? If any of the bolts were loose there could be gasket comprimise
The head bolts in my E63 are getting done this Sunday. My mechanic's cost on the updated ones wasn't much over $100 for the complete set. They're made be Ehlinger (something like that, can't remember).
I'll be sure to take pics while he's doing it. He's doing them 1 at a time. The car is also getting new plugs since he'll be in there and lowering links will be installed if there's time. Also have to figure out the extremely annoying heat shield rattle that I have under load at part throttle.
hopefully the noise isnt coming from a baffle, but likely from a protective panel that has a missing screw.
Head bolts probably aren't getting done this weekend. Turns out his shop doesn't have the special tools needed for the cams. He's going to ask around and see if any local shops have some he can borrow. If not, there's a good chance I'll be buying the tools and selling them when the job is done.
Originally Posted by VictoryRoadPerformance
The noise is most likely Camshaft adjusters
Nope, it's a heat shield for sure. You can hear it under the middle of the car and replicate it by tapping on one of the heat shields.
01-20-2017, 12:00 AM
I got my car back
