Trans brake
 

Thought I would share a little project I am working on. It is not cheap but should be through testing and development here in the next month or so. Going through design revisions right now. It will be quite a bit different than this when it is done.
I will only be doing them on new/remanufactured valve bodies. No used cores.
Also they will require a new deep pan. And will come as a modified valve body for much, much firmer shifts.

What's the price?

Not firm on that yet. But with a new pan and a modified valve body and the t brake added. It is going to be around 3k. Hoping to get it down a bit from there. We are working on some other stuff to hopefully to take these transmissions to some really crazy power levels.

Freddy Brown has been doing the trans brake also

I am not sure who that is but are you saying he is doing a trans brake for these transmissions?

Let me know if you are ever down here at PIR or Woodburn testing that thing. It's something I may consider down the road and I'd love to see it in action!

can you do valve bodies minus trans brake

We will be this spring. It will be going in a TT Jeep right away.

Yes. Shoot me a PM.

Whipple yes he's doing them
He's been doing them for at least 2 years, that's when I spoke to him with Kustom2k1

Is it the silver one that Troy was testing last year? Shoot me a PM if you'll be there and I'll try to make it out.

Will do.

Working out the revisions on the trans brake. Will hopefully be dropping this off to be made in the next week. Need to go through all the measurements and 0 point locate it to the main valve body.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a4e06f2653.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e345eb403f.png

What ever happened to the stand alone TCU?

It is all up and running. PM me if you have any questions.

Finally did some track tests this weekend. Very happy with how the trans brake worked. We ended up breaking the transmission rather quickly though. Not from the brake but from the amount of power the truck makes. Seems running in the mid to upper 9s is about what a stock input shaft can do with over 5000lbs. We have a new one that we are going to put in that should be able to take the abuse.

[QUOTE=whipplem104;7019190]Not firm on that yet. But with a new pan and a modified valve body and the t brake added. It is going to be around 3k. Hoping to get it down a bit from there. We are working on some other stuff to hopefully to take these transmissions to some really crazy power levels.[/QUOT
Got my trans brake for $300, and Line lock for $100. Running over year now. Dammmmm 3k WTF LOL

Hi. Question on the 722.6 valve body. A friend modified his and slightly shimmed the pressure regulator for firmer shifts and it worked pretty well. I already have a valve body done buy IPT transmissions and it really did not do much. {Also have a Eurocharge TCU tune } I am a little leery of shimming the regulator to mine but it did seem to work for him. What are your thoughts on this. Thanks for your time, Gary

You got a trans brake for the 722.6 for 300.00. That is awesome. What clutches are you locking up for the brake function. Reverse? Is it external and you had to run lines inside? I thought about doing a much cheaper setup but I wanted to make something that the average guy could bolt in without modification. It also includes a new valve body that has been modified and the deep pan. Those parts alone are right at 1200.00. If I had volume sales at all I can get them down to 2000.00. But it is a very small number of people that want this or that it would even benefit. Unless you are trying to spool up a turbo it really would just be for Pro tree. since you can set and bump your way into the beams.
Or if you have a car that can use the weight shift.

Gary,
I do not recommend shimming anything in the valve body. The most common valve to shim the spring pressure in these do a couple things wrong.The main problem with this idea is that it creates small change in the actual shift pressures and a very big change in the control pressures. This basically creates the problem that the shifts tend to bind up. This is really rough on clutches. To have much of an effect you have to run so much pressure that the pressure regulating valves cannot get rid of it.
It also is very touchy because the spring is so strong that shimming it does very little until you bind it up. So you get a bit of a placebo hard shift at lower throttle and not much change up top where you actually want it.
I have two different valve bodies that I make. The one that I use in Mercedes is a 150% increase in shift pressure. I actually make a new valve for it. It is the only linear way to change the shift pressure as well. So with this you get 7.5psi instead of 5 and 150 instead of a 100. The very low psi change in the lower areas is still within the range that the computer can adapt and smooth out your daily shifts but up high it still shifts crisp. It is not abusive. PM me if you have any more questions.

Yes line lock locking up the front breaks for the burn out. Trans break is reverse allowed me to bring my RPM from anywhere to 2500 to 4000rpm . Works on any car you don't just need it for turbos. If you foot break a regular car or supercharger car it's still want to roll forward but also not too many people know about transbrake that's why it's hard to get sales. And price for transbrake should be no more than $500. GM transbrake are anywhere between 250 and 350 with the solenoids complete kit.

So you put an external trans brake solenoid with lines on your 722.6 valve body. How did you block reverse from draining back? Is it a 3 way valve? The problem I see with using reverse is that it is under bind from the b2 piston and wont release properly. It burns up the clutches. How did you overcome this?

Yes external transbrake on the 722. The car is put in first gear and reverse at the same time so there is no binding. Release the button and you're gone. I can't give all my secrets away that's why I have the fastest Mercedes around. #Tracksmarts. Good Luck

What I meat by bind is that b2 for 1st gear is housed in the b3 reverse piston assembly. So when you activate reverse for the brake you must slide b2 along the k3 clutch. Under no or little load like when in normal reverse b2 is released this works fine. But when under very high loads like at full throttle. The return spring has to slide the b2 piston and clutches under very high load back to release reverse. THe b2 clutches are locked against k3 under very high load. Now you want to slide them back to release reverse. It is really a slow release and the clutches drag. It works but it is not as quick and tends to wear out clutches quickly. It also can lock up in high gears. My design will only work in 1st and 2nd gear. Just a different product. Glad you like yours.