Skizz

Nice. Speedriven, huh? Glad I won't meet you at any local stop lights.


My tech buddy runs an M156 Weistec blown Stage 2. He still uses M1 0w-40 Euro. To each his own, I guess.

oneslow55

In the end it all comes down to preference,I'll tell you this the Mobil makes the engine noisier and burn too.The zinc is not the same as it use to be.

green1212

oneslowe55 has made some very good points indeed!! i wonder how much mobil 1 paid mercedes amg to place that "sticker" on the front of engine bay there??? i am sure someone knows. if you really get into it and for those who do their own oil, just take some time and gather a small amount and send it out to blackstone or whoever you want to get it analyzed by and let them tell you whats going in your oil...!!! if you really care to know. many people just like to follow the directions/owners manual and for most that's fine but for those that are here to learn about modding their cars, fixing their cars and here to get help figuring things out on their cars---- naturally that "person" wants the best for their "baby"!! and i am sorry to say: mobil 1 isn't the best! so i will leave the oil points like this: if you change your oil every 3k miles, it damn well may not matter what oil you use b/c you doing it so frequently that its out before any real damage or protecting properties are lost. but if you are following mercedes 15k miles or i like to do just 10k mile interval changes, then i suggest you pay the $20 to $25 to get your oil analyzed and see whats going on..... who knows, they may report you have coolant in your oil and that maybe a hint that something is not right??? its a very cool and informative readout of your oil from wear properties left, to water content and/or other chemicals like antifreeze if present etc etc etc...
and in time you will come to realize what oneslowe55 is talking about: Mobil 1 is maybe 4th or 5th down the list of the best oils to use!! i hate to start something up here but i can't help myself: i personally use castrol 0w30 european formula: its between a "normal" 0w30 formula and a heavy 0w40 oil with all the protection you can expect from Castrol. did testing over a 5 year period and this oil is damn awesome! don't want anybody to go out and get it b/c as soon as something happens to your car you will blame it on the oil but thats what i use and will continue to use for a LONG time!!!

MACEDON

If you're in Florida, shouldn't you be using the heaviest oil possible to fend from the high temperature? That's the whole idea between the 40w, the 0w is I feel not that necessary here....

Yuille36

Someone once told me that they use a heavier weight oil in the summer, due to the heat and high humidity here. And that they use a light weight oil like 10W-30 in the winter. It made sense to me at the time. I use 0W-40 all year long, due to it's greater operating range. Besides it was specifically blended to operate at extreme temperature ranges.

Skizz

[QUOTE=Skizz;7142450]Hmmm......I use M1 0w-40 and sent a sample with 4,800 miles (quite a bit longer than I typically go - personal preference, nothing more) to Blackstone and report back said "Very nice. No contaminations to note at all and metals look great compared to universal averages". The previous owner did the same and sent oil in with 9,700 miles on it (I never go that long) and Blackstone said "oils shows typical wear for the M156 after about 5,600 miles of use, so you went longer and still had less metal, so if you'd like to add 2,000 miles to this fill, your engine and oil are up to the task".



Oil testing is $28 from Blackstone now. My experience is excerpted above when I sent my oil for testing. I would also suggest having oil tested. And I also suggest changing one's own oil and coming to your own conclusions, especially if you have the wherewithal to understand what you see.

Opinions, and forums, are often based on quantifiable factors and conjecture. Having less zinc in an oil is a quantifiable factor. It also must be taken with other factors as we know that there are other wear inhibitors outside of zinc, and whether these compounds are added and play a role. Zinc is certainly not a cutting edge wear inhibitor.

Whether M1 makes an engine noisier is conjecture. I also note that most who feel this way have the E55 (M113) and most that tend to feel M1 is sufficient for their use have E63's (M156). Certainly not all, but I wonder if when the statements similar to "it makes the engine noisier" are made, it is the user's experience with a particular engine, or engine family. I just don't think it can be stated as fact that M1 makes an engine "noisier", and that is assuming we are talking mainly about valve train/lifter noise. We all know the differences in the M113 and M156 in this area.

I don't think anyone here has said M1 is the "best" oil, certainly not me. I don't believe there is such a thing. It is also conjecture that M1 is fourth or fifth down on any list of "best" oils. Indeed, I may try Motul and/or Liqui-Moly in the future, but I doubt I will see any quantifiable differences as I change my oil every 3-5K. But as Blackstone said based on their analysis of my M1, I could go beyond 11k and sleep well. My experience with Castrol was different that the above poster in a turbo-4 car I owned a while back. But I don't think Castrol sucks. I just found it wasn't best for my application at the time. I may try it again in another spec or application.

As I said, there are many which-oil-is-best threads in any section of this forum. There is another active thread going on now in this one with a different tone and sentiment. I'm not an M1 fan boy and may try something different in the future just for the hell of it. Or I may not. I also want the best for my cars and put my money where my mouth is. If spending more got me subjectively "better", I'd do it in a heartbeat. I just don't think there is quantifiable evidence to say that M1 is not more than sufficient for our cars. Whether it makes engines noisier than Brand X is conjecture based on personal experience within a limited control group to form an opinion only. And when we get to which oil brand is, or isn't, best or where it is on any best oils list, all that is left is opinion. BTW, I think The Rock can beat up Vin Diesel.

skylinrcr01

Meh just dump some honda MTF in there, it'll be fine. /S Or that peniston fluid.

Skizz

Mobil1 0w-40, of course! It makes everything work better

oneslow55

No offense to many on this post but you guys need to really educate yourself's more on oils..Google is your friend!

Skizz

Me? No offense taken, and I appreciate the sentiment of not wanting to offend. Differences in opinion are just that. And google is also your enemy. True, it is where you find useful info. It is also where you find most of the misinformation out there on any subject you choose. Google has turned out more "experts" these days than all universities combined.


You sound like you are experienced and based your opinions on facts as you understand them. I respect that. However, there are also opinions that are just that, based on your experience. I have sat in on many trials where two "expert" witnesses, with many years of experience and advanced degrees, have examined the same evidence and come to polar opposite conclusions.


I am not intimating that you do not know what you're talking about. Likewise, you shouldn't surmise that I don't because my experiences and translation of data are different than yours. We just disagree. But that's what makes the forums useful; people sharing opinions. We should just be cautious about what we state as fact. They are often confused.

oneslow55

SkiZZ GREAT POST ,agreed .Google has become the battle of the idiots with zero experience and relating like parrots wheat someone else said she said Many don't take things with a grain of salt like you do they get rather offend fast .I have tried many different combos over the years and trying diffent oils with the builds,not all oil works well for some setups due to tolerances,that plays a major factor to!

Skizz

Me too. I've tried many different oils in different set ups and found the same as you: some perform better than others in certain scenarios. It's good to share experiences we have and help others along if we can. AND learn something ourselves too every now and again.


Been meaning to ask, which do you prefer in your E55? How long is your typical change interval? I think we know by now what I use and I usually change between 3 and 5k, just because I'm uptight, OCD and always gotta be touching my car like it has ***** or something. No wonder the M1 always looks good when drained!

green1212

this is the idea that we have been fed but when you look over the characteristics of various oils, whether its 0w30 vs 0w40, or 5w40 etc etc...
i would say (very simplistically saying here) that today's oils handle the heat very well. let me step out and say something here: have anyone notice that back some 10 to 20 years ago, very "heavy" oils were being recommended by most manufacturers but you look today and you very well can notice that "lighter" oils are being recommended, most commonly 0w20!!! the main reason why is that the most "engine" damage will occur not when you going at 70 mph for 10 hours or 85 mph for 10 hours, the most "engine" damage occurs upon startup!!!! thats when everything is "dry" and the oil is "stiff" as hell!!! heat provides increase lubricity and allows the oil to be easily distributed around. so the idea has become now to do whatever possible to avoid that most likely common engine damage on startup by using "lighter" oils like 0w20 due to the fact that its lighter and may very well get everything lubed quicker..
just as an example: take a look at the dodge hellcat 707 hp vehicle right.. their recommendation for oil is 0w40!! (pennzoil brand they recommend but 0w40) ... thats a 707 hp making all kinds of heat for sure and the same damn weight as recommended for our stock 469hp E55..... ???? think about it..... like i said, i am just saying.....we can definitely use a "lighter" oil... do your research and use whatever oil you want to use. there is a company/oil called Renewable Lubricants. look them up, great oil and i know some ferrari guys and machbach guys running Renewable Lubricants 0w20 oil and thats all they ever use!!!! not saying they know anything we don't or we should do the same thing....... one caveat i have against Renewable Lubricants: its very expensive and you need to order ahead of time. just can't go to your local parts store and get their oils..... anyway: great discussion and nothing stirs up more controversy than which oil to use, best basketball shoes, carillo rods/ H beam vs I beam connecting rods etc etc etc!
you all take care now!

St.Christopher

We were both having a bad day....I apologize also! Its kinda funny to read what we wrote now that we are cooled off and sober...

cetialpha5

And for those who are still Mobil 1 fans, there's a rebate for $12 off a 5 quart jug and Walmart has it down to $22.88 now so $10.88 for a 5 quart jug, limit 2. While Walmart isn't listed as a participating retailer, they've run this rebate for the last couple of years and if you call they say it will be honored and you can submit the rebate online. Good til May 31st. This time the only restriction is that Amazon doesn't qualify, used to in the past.

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...nd-mobil-super

Also true about Mobil 1 losing the BMW LL-01 spec, but it still meets MB 229.5 spec. The UOA's still show that it's fine.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...Me#Post4407598

As an FYI, some prefer Castrol 0w40, has MB 229.5 and also meets BMW LL-01.