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SC clutch not engaging

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Old 08-22-2017, 01:23 PM
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SL55, GL450, and 300SE
SC clutch not engaging

DISCLAIMER: My SDS is broken, so while I wait on repair, I am trying to troubleshoot this the good old way

What causes clutch not to engage? at all, I dont mean loosing boost because of heat soak, I am talking about ECU not ordering the clutch to engage at all...

12V is present at clutch connector.

ground line continuity from clutch connector to ECU is OK

introducing ground at ECU pin1/connector1 engages the clutch OK

So the problem is logical; the ECU is deciding not to engage the compressor for some reason.

IAT is within normal range.

What else can be messed up causing ECU to disable the compressor?
Old 08-22-2017, 02:56 PM
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maybe the electro magnet is bad or diode in the magnet failed for some reason
Old 08-22-2017, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hayseed
maybe the electro magnet is bad or diode in the magnet failed for some reason
As mentioned, the clutch engages manually, when ground is introduced manually, instead of by ECU.

The problem is logical, either the ECU has a problem in it, or getting a bogus signal from other components, and not engaging the clutch.

Its not the IAT, so what else could it be?

Last edited by bayhas; 08-22-2017 at 04:16 PM.
Old 08-22-2017, 09:44 PM
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Scanned the car with an Autel today, an advanced scanner, but not as advanced as SDS...

More twists:

- NO CODES whatsoever in ME2.8.1

- Component test for ME2.8.1 actuates Y2/1 clutch (Compressor clutch) successfully
Old 08-23-2017, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bayhas
Scanned the car with an Autel today, an advanced scanner, but not as advanced as SDS...

More twists:

- NO CODES whatsoever in ME2.8.1

- Component test for ME2.8.1 actuates Y2/1 clutch (Compressor clutch) successfully
Could it be a map sensor? Just guessing here.
Old 08-23-2017, 01:01 AM
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CLS55
Do you have a tune? Could try reflashing your ecu
Old 08-23-2017, 07:18 AM
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opportunity for fsp
Old 08-23-2017, 12:13 PM
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^

I wanna do a fixed stock size because of that
Old 08-23-2017, 12:27 PM
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Check your fuse in the rear for the pump. If it pops the ECU will not engage the clutch.
Old 08-23-2017, 01:27 PM
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I had intermittent (and finally , none at all) SC clutch engagement when my bypass throttle (on my 2003 sl55) was failing (m16/7 recirculated air flap). It did throw codes in my case.

I printed you the page from the Mercedes WEB ETM that gives an overview of the inputs associated with the SC clutch .... hope that helps.

Cheers,
Chris
Attached Thumbnails SC clutch not engaging-sc-clutch-control.jpg  
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro
Could it be a map sensor? Just guessing here.
Intake pressure and temp reading are both normal. I was hoping for an out of range reading on either...
Old 08-24-2017, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat
Do you have a tune? Could try reflashing your ecu
Indeed, and yes, we're both thinking logically, first thing I did was to reflash with factory map, to eliminate this variable.
Old 08-24-2017, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
Check your fuse in the rear for the pump. If it pops the ECU will not engage the clutch.
7.5A Fuse is good...
Old 08-24-2017, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by latemodel21
I had intermittent (and finally , none at all) SC clutch engagement when my bypass throttle (on my 2003 sl55) was failing (m16/7 recirculated air flap). It did throw codes in my case.

I printed you the page from the Mercedes WEB ETM that gives an overview of the inputs associated with the SC clutch .... hope that helps.

Cheers,
Chris
I was reading this publication yesterday, and voltage did drop, due to discharged battery when the issue first happened. but SC never came back after batteries were recharged.

I tried to disconnect both batteries, wait for a bit, and reconnect, no luck.
Old 08-24-2017, 05:52 PM
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Expensive experiment, try replacing the battery? Or IAT sensor is also very cheap and worth doing if it hasn't been done for a while. Not that I advocate throwing parts at a problem and hoping for the best of course.
Old 08-24-2017, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tw2
Expensive experiment, try replacing the battery? Or IAT sensor is also very cheap and worth doing if it hasn't been done for a while. Not that I advocate throwing parts at a problem and hoping for the best of course.
all of these components are passing tests, battery voltage on both batteries is >12.5, MAP and IAT both reading normal range of vacuum and temp.
Old 08-25-2017, 09:17 AM
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Did you check your IC pump relay too? The fuse is position 4 and the relay is the very bottom one on the same module. It's a skinny one with a fat one directly above it. See pic, green arrow

This was my issue, someone had misplaced that relay when troubleshooting the fuel pump and put it back in the wrong spot. I had exactly the same symptoms as you.


Old 08-25-2017, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hergs7
Did you check your IC pump relay too? The fuse is position 4 and the relay is the very bottom one on the same module. It's a skinny one with a fat one directly above it. See pic, green arrow

This was my issue, someone had misplaced that relay when troubleshooting the fuel pump and put it back in the wrong spot. I had exactly the same symptoms as you.



You placed me on the right track!

in my case, the whole issue started similar to your, dead M3 fuel pump. Replaced fuel pump, still intermittent pump run.

Finally it turned out to be a bad wiring, near the M3 fuel pump, and N118 module. fearing corrosion and future problems, I opted to bypass the wire completely, and run a new one from the fuse box K40/5 to N118

Turned out the the bypass i installed left Z3/29 without power, and subsequently K27/5 relay without power...

Low and behold, without power to K27/5, the car runs, but no boost...

According to STAR, K27/5 powers primary fuel pump inside the tank, however, SL55 has only one external pump, so I am guessing K27/5 powers the M44 coolant pump, thus no boost without K27/5

Good news is if I keep the car for 15 more years, and my son wants to take it for a ride, I discovered an easy method to tame down the 600HP monster down to 230HP grocery getter, just replace the K27/5 relay with a dummy one... LOL

Thank you everyone for the help!!!



Last edited by bayhas; 08-25-2017 at 01:42 PM.
Old 08-25-2017, 04:45 PM
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That makes me want to wire up a valet switch for when my wife takes it for a spin. Last time she drove it she used up like half my tires, came home with a smile on her face though. It was brutal chasing her down with the Tahoe full of my kids as she did serpentine patterns every time she stabbed it from a stop.

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