E55 Eurocharged mids vs Maximizer long tube headers
 

Made the switch from mids to long tubes and it’s a night and day difference. I gained a 1.8mph in my trap speed with similar 3000 DA on 91 pump gas. They actually sound quieter at cruising speeds and louder at WOT. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...92b9cf83d.jpeg
I have long tubes to x pipe to c63 mufflers.


Mid length headers: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only

Long tubes: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only

Nice results.

I wonder how mbh'sdesign compares to theses two,
since they are lengthwise somewhere inbetween.

How much were those?

I bought them for $1255.00 from VRP. He had them the cheapest compared to other vendors on eBay.

Here’s the link for them: http://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route=...product_id=299

How was the fit and everything? Did you have to mess with the O2 sensor wires?

They fit great. They’re pretty long too. I put a racket strap over the driver’s side engine mount to prevent the motor from turning during WOT pulls and hopefully make the mounts last longer. The clamps that come with it are not the greatest but you can get some nice ones fairly cheap on Summit Racingnkr online. I went and got 3 inch V bands welded on and now they can come on and off whenever I need to work under the car.

The front O2’s fit fine but the rear O2 bungs are too far back to reach for the stock rear O2 length. I ended up just coding them out through Star and unplugged the rear O2’s No more CEL.

Could you possibly provide a little more detail on the ratchet strap? I've got long tubes on and have lots of vibration under hard acceleration. And that's with all brand new motor and transmission mounts. Thanks.

Hard to believe the LT's only give 4-5% more power over the mids when they're side by side like that. Anyway big thumbs up on the v-bands. I plan to do mine the same way to make removing the headers way easier if/when I have to.

On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.

Pictures of the strap would be awesome.

With a username like that idk what you're doing here lol

I have TRIED to race 3 C7's from dig at stop lights- none of them would budge. Perfect opportunities too, nobody on the road, night time nice and cool outside... nothing. Probably because it's USUALLY older guys that drive them instead of hot heads like me. Guaranteed I'd lose but it's always worth trying.

my mods to slightly pull on the C6Z06 were:
long tube headers
77 clutched with a 168 crank pulley (I don’t recommend this stack on stock fuel system, it costed me cylinder #8 in my last motor)
82mm throttle body
2 heat exchangers
10 gallon trunk tank (I only have 5 gallons filled in there)
550cc injectors with looped fuel rail
dyno tune from Anthony Lawshee/Race IQ this was on 91 pump gas

about 2 months after the second run with the red C6Z06 I lost compression on cylinder #8.

New motor is in and this is the new set up:
Current mod list:

Maximizer Long tube headers with no cats, no resonator to x pipe to c63 mufflers

185mm ASP Crank Pulley

Stock supercharger pulley

UPD belt wrap kit (prevents belt slip)

NGK one step colder spark plugs

Custom looped fuel rail

Bosch 630cc injectors

Mercedes 82mm throttle body

UPD Intake spacers with Green drop in filters

Frozen Boost heat exchanger

VRP Secondary heat exchanger

Split cooling with 10 gallon trunk tank

Dual nozzle Water/meth injection with a number 3 nozzle on the snout after the throttle body and a number 10 nozzle post supercharger intercooler

Dual walboro 450 fuel pumps w/ cnc billet fuel lid

160 Thermostat

Zt2 Ndash Zeitronix Datalogger




Race IQ ECU dyno tune on 91 pump gas and Renegade Pro 120

Race IQ TCU

Passenger's side:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...9b3d056f7.jpeg

Driver's side:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...11de667bd.jpeg

Passenger's side:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...433a5f8a8.jpeg

Driver's side
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...b10e35adf.jpeg

Thanks for that, yeah I was under there the other day wand was messing around, that makes sense. I need a ramps, or a better jack to get the car higher, I could barely squeeze under there with my ****ty little jack.

Wow so even with 550cc injectors, looped fuel rail and a custom tune, you think you ran lean on no.8? Thats a bit concerning. Were you monitoring afr:s by any chance and IDC? I am hoping to upgrade to this combo soon, got the kit for it already. But now you got me nervous the 550cc injectors won't cope?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a8d8aa8ca.jpeg
Yes, I have a monitoring system which I log and look at like a hawk. I use a Ndash Zeitronix ZT2. A weistec crank pulley will throw belts. I've seen this happen many times. The only crank pulley I would run is an ASP 185-190mm pulley with a stock supercharger pulley. Anything over than 14,0000 supercharger rpm you won't see any wheel horsepower gains and just over spinning it. You will see wheel torque gains but with a lot of heat and if you aren't running long tube headers, trunk tank for recovery and meth to keep the temps form climbing during wide open throttle pulls. You're just building more heat for no reason. If you live at higher elevation like myself the real fix is going to a more efficient blower like the 2.9L whipple or what weistec has which is a whipple.

Our ecu pulls timing in 3 tiers of intake air temps:
95F pulls 3.5 degrees
113F pulls 6.3 degrees
149F pulls 9.5 degrees

The real reason for me losing cylinder #8 was due to the new weaker recall fuel pumps MBUSA is using. The fuel buckets can not refilling/replenish fast enough causing the pumps not being able to supply the fuel needed to the motor aka going lean. This also caused my fuel pressure to drop under 50 psi. If you still have the old school style 55 fuel pumps you won't have this issue. Another thing is the stock fuel hat lid will burn after some time. Mine only lasted 10 months with the new lid and pumps. I since then contacted David from Eurocharged ATX (Austin, Tx) and purchased his cnc billet fuel hat. Now i don't have to worry about the connector getting burnt again. Since i was in the fuel tank I modified my fuel buckets by drilling a bunch of hole in the bottom and sides. Made the buckets look like swiss cheese. I also put in 2 walboro 450s to replace the stock fuel pumps. I did this to ensure I always have enough fuel pressure and volume. If you go with the walboros and you do have the stock fuel pump relay. That will need to be upgraded. I made a harness for each fuel pump to have their own relay and fuse. Now I see 80psi of fuel pressure at idle and 82-86psi at WOT.

I just strapped mine. Is there any concern about the strap belt + mechanism being so close to the exhaust or is the heat not that bad?

I haven’t had any issues.

Awesome post thanks #DAS, OK so I got a couple issues coming my way then.. I bought a weistek 170mm crank pulley.. Waiting to install it, but now worried about the throwing of belts. Any idea why it does that and is it "fixable" don't feel like spending more money on something I technically have. Also I have the newer fuel pump bucket system, so I can expect that to blow out to.. Wonderful... Thanks Merc.

I'm not sure, but I only know 3 guys personally that have had the weistec crank pulley and they all threw belts. Some went with an ASP pulley and some just went back to stock crank pulley with a Whipple/weistec blower. I would look into long tube headers first before trying to pulley up. With long tubes you get the most out of the engine. More flow, less boost, less heat, less timing pull and more consistent results. Now if you don't at least have water meth injection to assist with keeping the intake air temps from climbing you'll do more harm than good. More boost, more heat, faster timing pull and more stress on the engine. You'll just be flat out slower. I would address supporting mods first. Even with a 77mm pulley a heat exchanger and split cooling isn't enough. Even 2 heat exchangers with split cooling isn't enough. Meth to stop the temps from climbing and a trunk tank to have the volume to help with fast recovery. You can also add ice to start with very cold temps. If it were me I would look into making the engine more efficient and do supporting mods.

1. Long tubes
2. Proper cooling mods
3. Sufficient fueling for the power you're trying to achieve
4. Then go from there like adding more boost or just getting a whipple/weistec instead

Make sure you have some sort of way to log the data with a data logger. This will help you see what mods are doing what.

Thanks mate, got all the supporting mods already. Running the 77mm upper. I have the PLM heat exchanger upgrade, split cooling, w/m kit, still playing with nozzle sizes and location for best results, have a full exhaust, long tube headers. So my next round of mods is installing the 170 weistek crank pulley, installing 550 cc injectors and getting the fuel rail looped with obviously new tune again. I am trying to eliminate possible belt shredding now after learning about the weistek crank pulley saga and now also concern of the stock fueling with newer fuel buckets oem not flowing enough. I am also living at high altitude and with our summer Temps our DA can easily hit 7- 8000 ft high... Terrible.. Oh yes also have the ndash zt2 afr kit for constant monitoring..

I use a number 3 nozzle on the supercharger snout and a number 10 nozzle a few inches from the supercharger inter-cooler. My intake air temps don't go past 94F with no ice in the trunk tank ambient temps were 78F. That's with a 185mm crank pulley and a stock supercharger pulley. Man that DA is hurting you BAD. I live at 2200ft above sea level and see anywhere from 3000-4500 DA depending on the weather. If you do plan to stack crank pulleys you will need the smaller water pump pulley. Shardul/UPD sells them. When I had the 168mm crank pulley it was less than a 1/4th of inch away from rubbing the stock water pump pulley. So a 170mm might rub. For your elevation I think going weistec blower will give you the results your looking for up in your elevation. When I went from a 77 to a 77/168 combo it wasn't that big of a difference. On the mustang dyno I mostly gained around 40 wheel torque and around 5whp. But the heat went up quiet a bit. Wasn't worth it in my opinion.

Wow only 5rwhp fitting the 168 crank... Damn that's not called for bud. Yea our elevation is 5000ft before taking heat in to effect. Down 5psi boost up here compared to sea level as a result. Don't have the means to upgrade to a full weistek blower setup, would be nice, but not an option for me. Thanks for the heads up on the smaller water pump pulley will check that situ out. Your no 10 nozzle is that pre intercooler or post? I am worried about spraying post intercooler as the sensor is just sending false cold air reading from being blown direct with cool spray.

Yeah that elevation will kill boost that's for sure. I lose around 3 psi at my elevation. I see 10psi of boost with my 185mm crank pulley. My number 10 nozzle is post intercooler to cool down the charge. That's mostly speculation about giving the sensor a false reading. The spray is evaporated fairly quick and in result giving the cooler charge. It's worked great for me so far. Look into a race gas tune to get the max out of your mods.

Das it6
When it comes to the fuel system I can tell you this.I put in a looped rail, Aeromotive regulator and a return line back to the tank. Pressure set at 70psi. Then at some point removed the factory fuel filter,pressure jumped to 78 psi. Then I removed the factory fuel line and jumped up to the next size , 3/8, and installed a high flow billet fuel filter. Fired engine and pressure was at 92psi. Had to turn down the regulator 3 full turns to get it back to normal. The point is there are some major restrictions in our system that cause problems with fuel delivery. Some guys run 10's I know but to me the system sucks for high output.