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Well so far fingers crossed this is by far the longest i have gone without the hiccup with this much freeway driving. Fingers crossed an hopefully it stays problem free
Well so far fingers crossed this is by far the longest i have gone without the hiccup with this much freeway driving. Fingers crossed an hopefully it stays problem free
Don't keep them crossed too long, my momma said that's how things stay stuck that way, like eyes.
Don't keep them crossed too long, my momma said that's how things stay stuck that way, like eyes.
i uncrossed em so i think im ok for now lmao
As for the car i have taken it another 50 miles making it almost 200 miles ... again almost all freeway an its on the same normal routes that normally cause the hiccup ... an so far doin great, havent used cruise once.
So i advise anyone that hasnt welded of sealed their plug to do so its just another place to have a problem. Cant say it totally fixed .... im hopeful ... but it is doin better than it has i will make sure to keep updating
As for the car i have taken it another 50 miles making it almost 200 miles ... again almost all freeway an its on the same normal routes that normally cause the hiccup ... an so far doin great, havent used cruise once.
So i advise anyone that hasnt welded of sealed their plug to do so its just another place to have a problem. Cant say it totally fixed .... im hopeful ... but it is doin better than it has i will make sure to keep updating
SL 55 Brake booster plug
I had another leak as well. Guess where it was. The useless SL 55 Brake Booster Plug in the snout.
attached a picture of it for others to see. I sealed it off for the time being as the car is a daily driver and I cannot take the Kompressor out at the moment to get this piece removed and welderd shut.
Sorry it took me so long to try this but I finally gave it a try today and it worked perfectly, no hiccup, no CEL. I didn't change any settings in STAR either. I used an 80mm TB from a cl600 V12 naturally aspirated I picked up on eBay for $100. I made my own adapter plate and it all bolted up fine. One thing to note is that this throttle body opens in the opposite direction so you have to swap a few pins. I just cut and spliced the wires on the throttle body wiring harness.
Swap pins 1 and 4, and then swap 5 and 6.
After the pin swap everything worked like a charm! I will post this in the other threads about the 82 as well for anyone whos having issues with the 82. If I had to do it all over again I would skip the 82 and settle with the 80.
does it seem to give you much more HP/Torque and worth the effort ? any idea what the increase is ? also did you have to take the SC out or were you able to get the 80 and adapter plate in there with out the open heart surgery ? -- thanks for the into
I don’t have the 80mm but the 82 mm TB and depending on other mods you have you get 35-50 HP. But there are too many variables to give an accurate answer.
if you want to remove the snout for whatever reason the entire supercharger has to come out because there is one of five screws they you cannot get to it while it’s assembled. Some leave that screw kit afterward so they don’t have to take the entire supercharger out again. I recommend not to do this. Engineers have reasons why they do what they do and every screw cost money for the manufacturer.
does it seem to give you much more HP/Torque and worth the effort ? any idea what the increase is ? also did you have to take the SC out or were you able to get the 80 and adapter plate in there with out the open heart surgery ? -- thanks for the into
You can do it without taking the supercharger off but you wont be able to bore out the snout so that would defeat the point. Id say it feels like 15-25 hp. Im happy with it. I may have the 80 bored out a little down the road.
How did you route your valve cover breather tube's since the brake boost plug.
Originally Posted by Mackhack
SL 55 Brake booster plug
I had another leak as well. Guess where it was. The useless SL 55 Brake Booster Plug in the snout.
attached a picture of it for others to see. I sealed it off for the time being as the car is a daily driver and I cannot take the Kompressor out at the moment to get this piece removed and welderd shut.
Yeah i simply pryed it out removed the inner core an then used some industrial strength epoxy filled it all the way then sanded down both sides and put some around the outside so that it sealed to the snout .... super tight fit and ZERO leaks. Unless you have an SL55 its not needed, serves no function at all.
Knowing what I know today, I should have removed it too and sealed it off or welded it shut. If I ever have to remove the Kompressor again I’ll do it. My RTV fix seems to work right now though.
Knowing what I know today, I should have removed it too and sealed it off or welded it shut. If I ever have to remove the Kompressor again I’ll do it. My RTV fix seems to work right now though.
just an fyi i have done it on another car an its actually quite easy to take the plug out an install while the supercharger is bolted in just an FYI that is if its still leaking if not dont stress it.
on another note i have a guy that is gunna go crazy on the stock tb an max out bore it for me an see what we can do ill keep everyone posted as well as a before an after dyno.
Did you ever have the issue come back? I just did the 82mm the and I've got 25+% STFTs at highway cruising speeds, and believe I have a leak somewhere. Just got the P0106 code this morning. I installed a permanent plug in the brake booster line you'd had problems with, so I know it's not that. I did use the metallic TB gasket for the S550 TB I have and think I'm getting a leak past it. What TB gasket did you use? Thanks.
I sandwiched the metallic gasket in between two layers of MB RTV but that wouldn’t even matter.
There are so many possibilities. This is what I replaced and I believe it is partially the 82 mm TB because the idle opening angle of the shutter plate is bigger than the stock 74 mm TB. The software might also be a problem.
- gasket between engine and kompressor
- gasket between kompressor and surge tanks
- all three vacuum hoses
- both rubber connectors from s/c intercooler to surge tanks
- B28 pressure sensor on s/c intercooler
- grommet from gas tank vacuum line
- grommet from bypass flap between intercooler/kompressor
- gasket between intercooler and kompressor
It seems like as long as your fault doesn’t come along with the B28 pressure sensor implausible signal you should be fine.
Used the old brake cleaner spray trick and found leaks at both of my surge tanks. Will clean, retorque and probably use some copper spray sealant to see where that gets me. No leaks found at the TB gasket oddly enough.
Used the old brake cleaner spray trick and found leaks at both of my surge tanks. Will clean, retorque and probably use some copper spray sealant to see where that gets me. No leaks found at the TB gasket oddly enough.
i have tried every trick in the book to make sure the surge tanks dont leak copper spray, sealant, new gaskets ea time, even trued the edges to make sure they werent warped an even still the brake cleaner would imply a small leak in those areas lol so good luck with that.
I havent read the whole thread so i dont know if its been mentioned that when this hiccup is triggered the car goes in to a severe lean mode,way over 20 afr on acceleration,i have noticed that it not always trigger a cel light,but the mapsensorcode is always there if you scan it after the hiccup is felt ,if you dont have a wideband it could be costly...in my case it is not enough to cycle key i have to erase the code to be back to normal.
Key turn doesn’t get rid of CEL for me either. In the process of reinstalling sc as I just did rear bearings. I also did new map sensor, ends in 189 I think, new sc gaskets and I have the thicker cork type surge tank gaskets from needswings I am going to try. Read something in a thread about turbulence around map sensor so thats why I bought the thicker surge tank gaskets. I am using black rtv with the metal gaskets to try and get best seal I can everywhere. I already sealed the brake boost on sc and while I had sc off I completely removed the brake boost plug. I hope once car is running again the cel p0106 doesn’t return. It sucks when she doesn’t run correctly as I get to worried I’ll screw something up when I get on the throttle.
These issues are indeed weird. Some have real leaks, others don’t but still have faults and CEL on. Some claim it’s the software, others claim it’s the TB. Of course the tuners claim it’s never their software.
Having changed all seals, gaskets, grommet, pressure sensor, 3 different TBs and still problems make me wonder if these few HP more are really worth the hassle.
12-25-2017, 09:21 PM
