Completed C63 brake retrofit on my E63, but pads are SUPER SQUEAKY!
#1
Completed C63 brake retrofit on my E63, but pads are SUPER SQUEAKY!
Afternoon All!
So changed out my rotors, pads and lines last weekend and I've been driving the car around for a week now. Everything fits perfectly and car stops great, can't feel a difference from the 2 piece to tell you the truth.
BUT MAN O MAN it's so squeaky! LOL I'm thinking it's the pads...anyone got any suggestions on a set of pads that I can replace these TRWs with? I'd prefer something low dust.
Thank You in advance!
So changed out my rotors, pads and lines last weekend and I've been driving the car around for a week now. Everything fits perfectly and car stops great, can't feel a difference from the 2 piece to tell you the truth.
BUT MAN O MAN it's so squeaky! LOL I'm thinking it's the pads...anyone got any suggestions on a set of pads that I can replace these TRWs with? I'd prefer something low dust.
Thank You in advance!
Mercedes Brake Retrofit Kit Front (C63 AMG) - TRW C63P30FBK
This Kit IncludesQtyPartSKUBrandPrice1Disc Brake PadTRW-0054206620$153.992Disc Brake RotorZIM-400366020$124.491Brake Anti-Squeal PasteATE-700015$4.391Disc Brake Pad Wear SensorBOW-A098023$6.19
#2
Senior Member
I would give this bedding process a shot before going back in and changing out the brake pads, not sure how your driving style is but by now you should have burnt off any zinc or oily coating on the rotors. I’ve done this with all the cars I’ve had from cheap pads to pricey ones and haven’t had squeak problems. Some people say this isn’t necessary but then again people still say warning up a car isn’t necessary but i still do it.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Richmond, CA
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2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
I would give this bedding process a shot before going back in and changing out the brake pads, not sure how your driving style is but by now you should have burnt off any zinc or oily coating on the rotors. I’ve done this with all the cars I’ve had from cheap pads to pricey ones and haven’t had squeak problems. Some people say this isn’t necessary but then again people still say warning up a car isn’t necessary but i still do it.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
#5
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Afternoon All!
So changed out my rotors, pads and lines last weekend and I've been driving the car around for a week now. Everything fits perfectly and car stops great, can't feel a difference from the 2 piece to tell you the truth.
BUT MAN O MAN it's so squeaky! LOL I'm thinking it's the pads...anyone got any suggestions on a set of pads that I can replace these TRWs with? I'd prefer something low dust.
Thank You in advance!
So changed out my rotors, pads and lines last weekend and I've been driving the car around for a week now. Everything fits perfectly and car stops great, can't feel a difference from the 2 piece to tell you the truth.
BUT MAN O MAN it's so squeaky! LOL I'm thinking it's the pads...anyone got any suggestions on a set of pads that I can replace these TRWs with? I'd prefer something low dust.
Thank You in advance!
Mercedes Brake Retrofit Kit Front (C63 AMG) - TRW C63P30FBK
This Kit IncludesQtyPartSKUBrandPrice1Disc Brake PadTRW-0054206620$153.992Disc Brake RotorZIM-400366020$124.491Brake Anti-Squeal PasteATE-700015$4.391Disc Brake Pad Wear SensorBOW-A098023$6.19++1 on the re-bed, if the noise persists and you want to use a different pad, PM me and we will work it out. I recently swapped to EBC yellows on mine and they are super noisy so I certainly know what a nuisance brake squeaking can be.
--Kyle
#6
Senior Member
bedding process is key
I did (10) 30mph --> 10mph decelerations.....drove around for about 10 minutes, then followed with (10) 50mph --> 10mph decels.
The brakes definitely got hot and there was a smell but all associated with initial use.
I definitely had some initial noise / feel in the brakes. Post bedding, everything felt great.
I'm on zimmerman discs and akebono pads for reference.
(yes, you'll feel like a total asshat driving around 30-10 and 50-10. LOL! do it at night when the roads are empty. when you get down to 10 after each run you'll wonder how the geriatrics do it on the regular)
I did (10) 30mph --> 10mph decelerations.....drove around for about 10 minutes, then followed with (10) 50mph --> 10mph decels.
The brakes definitely got hot and there was a smell but all associated with initial use.
I definitely had some initial noise / feel in the brakes. Post bedding, everything felt great.
I'm on zimmerman discs and akebono pads for reference.
(yes, you'll feel like a total asshat driving around 30-10 and 50-10. LOL! do it at night when the roads are empty. when you get down to 10 after each run you'll wonder how the geriatrics do it on the regular)
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just did a complete brake job on my 07 E63 last Friday, and I can absolutely say that I have nothing wrong, no squeaks no rattles. I use anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts, inside the calipers where the pads lay. Use plenty of brake compound on the back of the pads to control any squeaks that might arise.
I installed Stop Tech Ceramic pads, as they don't generate as much brake dust as the OEM pads. And they have great initial bite. I am very happy thus far. Proper bedding of the brakes is very important.
I installed Stop Tech Ceramic pads, as they don't generate as much brake dust as the OEM pads. And they have great initial bite. I am very happy thus far. Proper bedding of the brakes is very important.
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#8
Super Member
Hi all,
I am having the same issue with my TRW brakes bought from FCP.
After measuring the 2 piece rotors on my car at 34.4 mm, I decided they still had life. They had fairly smooth surface too. Right after installation I went on a highway and did almost ten 65-20 stops. The brakes were fine yesterday. But today as I am driving slowly around town I get that annoying squeak. I can't stop like a maniac in the city each time. Is it going to get better? Is there an update from the OP?
I am having the same issue with my TRW brakes bought from FCP.
After measuring the 2 piece rotors on my car at 34.4 mm, I decided they still had life. They had fairly smooth surface too. Right after installation I went on a highway and did almost ten 65-20 stops. The brakes were fine yesterday. But today as I am driving slowly around town I get that annoying squeak. I can't stop like a maniac in the city each time. Is it going to get better? Is there an update from the OP?
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hi all,
I am having the same issue with my TRW brakes bought from FCP.
After measuring the 2 piece rotors on my car at 34.4 mm, I decided they still had life. They had fairly smooth surface too. Right after installation I went on a highway and did almost ten 65-20 stops. The brakes were fine yesterday. But today as I am driving slowly around town I get that annoying squeak. I can't stop like a maniac in the city each time. Is it going to get better? Is there an update from the OP?
I am having the same issue with my TRW brakes bought from FCP.
After measuring the 2 piece rotors on my car at 34.4 mm, I decided they still had life. They had fairly smooth surface too. Right after installation I went on a highway and did almost ten 65-20 stops. The brakes were fine yesterday. But today as I am driving slowly around town I get that annoying squeak. I can't stop like a maniac in the city each time. Is it going to get better? Is there an update from the OP?
For me, it's like surgery prep. I clean off any rust of the wheel hub, then lubricate it with anti-seize compound before mounting the rotor.
I also put some anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts. Apply a tremendous amount of brake pad compound to the back of the pads.
And on any surface where the pads might make contact with the caliper. And no more squealing like a pig in over a year now.
The key is preparation, take your time and do it right the first time. But the biggest thing you can do, it buy the right pad.
I use carbon ceramics for the low dust and noise.
#10
Member
I would give this bedding process a shot before going back in and changing out the brake pads, not sure how your driving style is but by now you should have burnt off any zinc or oily coating on the rotors. I’ve done this with all the cars I’ve had from cheap pads to pricey ones and haven’t had squeak problems. Some people say this isn’t necessary but then again people still say warning up a car isn’t necessary but i still do it.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
Find a a long quiet and dry stretch of road (in nyc I wait till late late night on a long highway)
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a few of times to bring them up to operating temp and won’t shock them with sudden heat from the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but don’t stomp them, lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and repeat. Reminder, don’t come to a full stop with brakes applied, the heat buildup could end up imprinting a brake pad image into the rotor. Also no need to go from 80mph+ down to 20mph, it’ll generate excessive heat for standard pads and rotors for street use.
You’ll experience some brake fade through the process and smell the heated brakes. Nothing to be concerned about, take the car on a nice leisurely cruise for another 10-15 min to let everything cool down. After that, everything is pretty much set, normal brake use will burn off any glaze on the pads from the heat, braking power will be on point, and hopefully your squeaks are gone.
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
i personally would not recommend "bedding" pads that are not built to operate at the temperatures required to properly allow for transfer of pad material to the rotor. generally speaking OE type pad's generally begin to lose brake efficiency once over heated. high performance or race pads generally need bedding to mainly allow for maximum stopping performance. pads have the greatest braking efficiency when its friction surface is of its same composition, hence bedding, or "pad material transfer". the byproduct of this is quieting of pads that make noise due to metallic material contained in the pad. this only is a temporary fix as pad material even transferred will eventually wear off and require bedding again. bedding is not a true solution to noisy pads regardless of whatever the internet gods state.
I am not familiar with TRW brake pads...what is the composition of the pad material or its operating range? lower quality brake pads either fit too loosely or fit too tightly causing braking noise which at times can be unavoidable.
I am not familiar with TRW brake pads...what is the composition of the pad material or its operating range? lower quality brake pads either fit too loosely or fit too tightly causing braking noise which at times can be unavoidable.
#12
Super Member
Did you apply any brake quiet paste to the back of your pads? Also on the surfaces where the pads might make contact with the caliper?
For me, it's like surgery prep. I clean off any rust of the wheel hub, then lubricate it with anti-seize compound before mounting the rotor.
I also put some anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts. Apply a tremendous amount of brake pad compound to the back of the pads.
And on any surface where the pads might make contact with the caliper. And no more squealing like a pig in over a year now.
The key is preparation, take your time and do it right the first time. But the biggest thing you can do, it buy the right pad.
I use carbon ceramics for the low dust and noise.
For me, it's like surgery prep. I clean off any rust of the wheel hub, then lubricate it with anti-seize compound before mounting the rotor.
I also put some anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts. Apply a tremendous amount of brake pad compound to the back of the pads.
And on any surface where the pads might make contact with the caliper. And no more squealing like a pig in over a year now.
The key is preparation, take your time and do it right the first time. But the biggest thing you can do, it buy the right pad.
I use carbon ceramics for the low dust and noise.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Maybe that will work for you. There is also a liquid made by BG, that some installers put on the surface of the pad, the pad absorbs it, and it helps to mitigate the noise. I personally never tried it.
You do know that performance pads squeak, that's just the nature of things. It's even in your owners manual. Try changing your pads. Good luck in your quest for quieter brakes.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
I honestly never heard of the rear brakes squeaking, but it's possible. I would removed the pads, ensure that everything is lubed correctly and reinstall. Ensure that you apply, brake quiet paste onto the back of the pads, and anywhere the pads make contact with the caliper.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
+1 I would remove the pads, I presume the E63 pads have shims, lube both the back of the pad and the back of the shim where it touches the pistons. Also lube the hardware that the pad slides on at each end. Use a rubber safe high temp ceramic brake grease. You guys are spoilt for choice in the US, the only decent one I could find in this part of the world is bendix-
https://www.bendix.com.au/product-ra...etic-lubricant
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...rts-lubricant/
If that doesn't work then replace the rotors and pads.
https://www.bendix.com.au/product-ra...etic-lubricant
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...rts-lubricant/
If that doesn't work then replace the rotors and pads.
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
I tend to use permatex, to lube up my pads. I've installed new pads and rotors, and it's been over a year now with no squeaks or squeals.
I will admit that I also use carbon ceramic pads, and not semi-metallic.
I will admit that I also use carbon ceramic pads, and not semi-metallic.
#18
Power Stop Z16
The front rotors with red calipers are 390mm, and rotors with silver calibers are 360mm. Rear are the same. I have silver calipers, there are fewer aftermarket pads for silver calipers. I went with ceramic brake pads instead of semi-metallic. Power Stop Z16, which work great and are unbelievably inexpensive- Grab better than the stock brake pads. I switched out the rotors with Zimmermann Z-Coat rotors. I had bad rear rotors and did the front at the same time. Heavy use, both street and track driving, high speeds with heavy braking- Used in all conditions. Minimal brake fade compared with the stock semi-metallic brake pads. Very cost effective combination and brake pads are still at half after almost 5,000 miles. Rotors should be turned when switching out pads- Especially if pad material is different.
The price on these brake pads are so low it is scary. Performance is great, no more excessive brake dust and the car doesn't grind to a stop at every stop light.
Performance results could be rotor and pad combination. No telling on how these pads perform with stock rotors.
.
The price on these brake pads are so low it is scary. Performance is great, no more excessive brake dust and the car doesn't grind to a stop at every stop light.
Performance results could be rotor and pad combination. No telling on how these pads perform with stock rotors.
.