W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Crank Pulley/Harmonic Candid help

Old Apr 5, 2018 | 10:39 PM
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Crank Pulley/Harmonic Candid help

Ive been mulling over my continuing crank pulley probs and got to thinking about the harmonic balancer itself.. When I got the car years back, it had already a 180 mm crank pulley upgrade from a company that i believe, utilized an MB balancer, which has the rubber, and they an add larger crank ring. Never really had an issue. When I replaced my crank seal, i decided on a smaller 172mm pulley and used a different company, which has the crank ring attached to a solid piece of steel.. and since, have had the bolt loosen and crank spin free 3 times now in 8 months.

So it got me thinking, the point of the harmonic balancer is to alleviate harmonic resonance / vibrations from the engine which is why there is rubber in the balancer. If there is a pulley on the car thats solid steel,l ike ive had now for a year, all those vibrations are now transferred throughout the engine and through the crankshaft, there by allowing the crankbolt to loosen over time, which has now happend three times.. Seems highly coincidental.
How else could a bolt with 250-300 lbs of torque eventually come loose? does this make any sense to anyone?

Im thinking about doing my own repair"again", this time cutting keyway, and going back to the original pulley utilizing the MB balancer.

any opinions ?

Thanks !
Paul
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 09:53 AM
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Makes sense to me. Get a new bolt, Green loctite sleeve retainer (slow set) Would hold it, but you may never get it off again. I'm guessing at this point you might be ok with that.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 11:11 AM
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Use the harmonic balancer to dampen the crankshaft resonance harmonics. Solid pulleys can aggravate resonance in the crankshaft to the point of failure.

Pull an internet search on "Crankshaft resonance" and read to your heart's content. Good images out there also.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 02:23 PM
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i actually had an interesting chat today with the owner of euro-charged. He told me they basically have stopped selling the crank pulley, awhile ago.. just to many issues just like mine and wasn't worth it.. Suggested I cut myself a new keyway, go back to OEM harmonic balancer with stock bolt and green locktite, and use a supercharger pulley, and i prob would never have an issue again

I think this is a very good suggestion
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 03:22 PM
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I have a 185mm, it has been on the car for probably 20k+ miles. Getting another crank pulley from a reputable vendor (the name is escaping me currently, but I have a company in mind - starts with an A) and having it professionally installed - torqued and pinned - is probably the way to go.

Crank pulleys, in my opinion, are infinitely better than supercharger pulleys. Honestly, the risk between them is basically the same. Plus, crank pulley cars seem to make better power.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Davednconfused
I have a 185mm, it has been on the car for probably 20k+ miles. Getting another crank pulley from a reputable vendor (the name is escaping me currently, but I have a company in mind - starts with an A) and having it professionally installed - torqued and pinned - is probably the way to go.

Crank pulleys, in my opinion, are infinitely better than supercharger pulleys. Honestly, the risk between them is basically the same. Plus, crank pulley cars seem to make better power.
At this point my main concern is keeping things the least troublesome and as close to normal... Im unconcerned about which has better power and so forth. I need my car to just drive at this point. So a stock balancer that does its job, and an sc pulley that matches the tune already on the ecu seem logical at this juncture.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fergsc32
At this point my main concern is keeping things the least troublesome and as close to normal... Im unconcerned about which has better power and so forth. I need my car to just drive at this point. So a stock balancer that does its job, and an sc pulley that matches the tune already on the ecu seem logical at this juncture.
ASP is the name I was looking for. They have arguably the best crank pulley on the market. I figure it'd be cheaper for you with labor included to just get another crank pulley and ARP bolt. I imagine that your issues are due to improper installation.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Davednconfused
ASP is the name I was looking for. They have arguably the best crank pulley on the market. I figure it'd be cheaper for you with labor included to just get another crank pulley and ARP bolt. I imagine that your issues are due to improper installation.
Thats the pulley that was on the car originally.. 180 MM with the actual dampener.. thats the one sold by eurocharged which as mentioned the owner stated to not bother.. they dont recommend and have not sold one for almost 1 year and a half. I can get e new OEM MB balancer, and the SC pulley and get my ecu reflashed to match the SC pulley, all for 900 bucks, cut a new keyway and call it a day hopefully.. I also spoke in person with loctite.. they have a locktite 660 product made just for press fit applications where shafts are damaged and it becomes a retaining bond, and that 660 can also be applied to the crank bolt threads which loctite told me will make this install basically pemeneant as it takes 482 degrees of heat to break the bond.

SO.. with al of that, im hopeful of success... cause if it fails again its off to the yard or getting parted out

Thanks for the insights thus far !!
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