Transmission Problem
 

Hi all. I recently had a transmission line bust and the car went into limp mode. It was without trans fluid for about 10 minutes of freeway driving by the wife. I replaced the line and filled the trans fluid to the correct level and now I am getting a couple codes. I am also having problems with my dash display showing incorrect gears when I am driving. At times when it gets into limp mode it won't show the S or the gear it is in. Other times it will show me in a completely different gear than I am currently in. Any thoughts would be helpful. I was under the car recently and did not see any leaks from the trans so I doubt the connector is leaking.

I am currently not experiencing any slipping. I am experiencing early shifting of gears around 1800 rmps the car will shift gears.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...66bd8a16b0.jpg

These are the two codes I am getting from Star.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...7640385ea8.jpg

I am driving in first gear and the dash is still showing reverse?

The first code pretty much means what it says. I had this and needed a rebuild. Can you get the lockup times through STAR? That would help a lot. The other code can point to a bad conductor plate but is probably related to the slipping clutches.

I'm not sure how to get that information but I'll try with star. I have no slippage in any of the gears and it isn't bouncing out of gear at all. The only symptoms I have are the early shifting and when I manually change gears from park to drive it'll at time lurch forward and be in limp mode where I have to put the car into neutral shut it off and switch to park and try again till it goes into drive.

Sounds like a faulty conductor plate. The speed sensor errors will put it into limp mode.

Yeah, this makes the most sense but I didn't realize it would show different gears on the dash from a faulty conductor plate

Conductor plate is essentially the wiring and all of the transmission sensors. It can do some very strange things.

It also sends the gear position signal, so anything is possible.

Alright will get to replacing it! thanks everyone for the help.

I replaced mine in the garage, you don't need any specialised tools, I don't even have STAR. Just be very clean, lots of shop towels and be prepared to be covered in transmission fluid. All of the bolt torques are available. There are a couple of other parts needed like pilot bush and transmission fluid changing parts. Of course my effort didn't change anything as I later discovered my clutch discs were fried and rebuild was required. The clutch lock up times will give you that information.

when you dropped the transmission pan how much fluid did you replace? I was reading 2.5 quarts should be all that is in the pan?

Thanks again for all of your help!

Plan on 4-5 quarts.

Yep about 4 liters. There is a lot hiding in all the parts you remove. Otherwise a normal drain and fill is about 3.5 liters. I would have at least 5 bottles on hand.

Sweet! I still have 5 bottles left over!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e463321f2c.jpg
Here are the solenoid values for the transmission. I switched out the conductor plate and plug although it is still shifting a bit early and not recognizing which gear i was in upon starting the car. I have since changed out the TCM and it now recognizes the gear im in but still shifting around 17-1800 RPMs in sport mode. I am now thinking i may need to take the valve body apart and clean it up. Any other thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks!

What RPM should it be shifting at?

in sports mode usually 2k to 2200 is what I was used to. It also will shift and try and drive at around 12-1300 RPMS in the higher gears without shifting to a lower gear until I mash the pedal down.

After doing some digging I believe I found the problem to my transmission. Hopefully some others can chime in as well.

After watching this youtube video and reading this website https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2317-ma...lve-sleeve-kit

I believe this is what is causing my premature shifting.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ec6304d8ef.jpg
Conductor plate and valve body are out of the car again. Time to disassemble the valve body. Now let the fun begin...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...11654458ea.jpg
Here is the problem. This spring has collapsed no more tension here.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...fbf963008d.jpg
Now time to hunt for a new spring...

That spring is not collapsed. That is the way they are. That valve is only a dampening valve for the tcc circuit and shift solenoids. Early valve bodies did not even have it.

That is good to hear. I ordered a new valve body anyway and will compare the two once it arrives tomorrow. You are correct it is the dampening valve. You are also correct that the earlier 722.6 did not have this valve. I do believe my 2-3 Overlap regulating spring is not functioning correctly as well. Hopefully I can check the new valve body for the length of springs to see if my original valve body springs were bad.

This is my first time working on a valve body I could use all the help I can get. I am using the NAG1 manual but it does not have the correct spring lengths listed. I did not find any stuck valves but did find a bit of grime in the channels which was cleaned out. None of the control sleeves were scored all that bad either.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...266b29414e.jpg
The 2-3 Overlap regulating valve spring

Your valve body does not determine when your transmission shifts. your tcm does.

Switched out my TCM and conductor plate already and the problem is still there.