Clutch pulley removal
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Clutch pulley removal
I'm about to order a 77' FIXED pulley and a new tune from RaceIQ..Can anyone tell me what is involved with removing the clutch assembly off the charger?...I'm hoping I don't need to remove the snout...It looks as if it's pressed on...I do have a pulley removal kit but have read that it usually damages things upon trying to remove....Any instructions or tips would be appreciated...I will also be removing a UPD 83'clutched pulley with under 5000 miles on it...I'd like to get a ballpark on what I can get for it as I can recoup some of the money from the new setup..It is still on the car but will be removed next weekend...Im not gonna give it away..But I'd like to sell it fairly quickly either on here or the many FB Mercedes enthusiast pages...Thanks..
#2
Motor must be removed. Lots of work.
On a real note a quick search will review plenty of info and even a thorough How-To on the subject. I also recommend you look into having a fixed pulley thoroughly before making the switch. Is this car dailey driven? Stop and go traffic or any amounts of sitting at idle will spike your IATs. When I switched to fixed I was able to reach 150*+ IAT with a run through the car wash and letting my wife run into the store while I waited in the car, with terrible recovery. I don't really think you have the cooling necessary to support it. I had a similar setup with a better pump And meth and still decided to rebuild my cooling system to compensate correctly for the constant heat from the fixed.
On a real note a quick search will review plenty of info and even a thorough How-To on the subject. I also recommend you look into having a fixed pulley thoroughly before making the switch. Is this car dailey driven? Stop and go traffic or any amounts of sitting at idle will spike your IATs. When I switched to fixed I was able to reach 150*+ IAT with a run through the car wash and letting my wife run into the store while I waited in the car, with terrible recovery. I don't really think you have the cooling necessary to support it. I had a similar setup with a better pump And meth and still decided to rebuild my cooling system to compensate correctly for the constant heat from the fixed.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Car is currently running an 83 clutched with catless ARH longtubes,,VRP HE with split cooling,180* thermo,and Bosch 010 on a EC tune...I've been watching intake temps while cruising..They average in between 10-15* above ambient while moving...They do spike under a hard pull but seem to drop almost instantly...I was told by a few tuners I should be fine with the 77...Or I can do an 80 to play it safer...I'm just hearing the clutch assembly removal and installing the fixed can be a nightmare...I don't want to damage the snout..Car is not a daily but gets driven often.
#4
Car is currently running an 83 clutched with catless ARH longtubes,,VRP HE with split cooling,180* thermo,and Bosch 010 on a EC tune...I've been watching intake temps while cruising..They average in between 10-15* above ambient while moving...They do spike under a hard pull but seem to drop almost instantly...I was told by a few tuners I should be fine with the 77...Or I can do an 80 to play it safer...I'm just hearing the clutch assembly removal and installing the fixed can be a nightmare...I don't want to damage the snout..Car is not a daily but gets driven often.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
I don't like the rough engagement of the clutched pulley...Feels like a rough sloppy downshift along with the bird chirp...I hear this is a common problem and can sometimes be worked out..I'd rather not fidget with it..I also have never seen any other cars that run a roots blower with a clutch...Always direct drive...It might have been a good and new idea to Mercedes/AMG at that time...But to me it complicates things more than needed...I like simple☺....I will speak to the tuner more about pulley size before ordering...But from what I'm told the 77 should be fine..I'll be monitoring intake temps along with A/F....Just need to know how to get the clutch off without destroying the snout...
#6
I will be impressed if you manage to damage the snout while removing the pulley since they are on opposite sides of the SC. Try using Google, or the forum search function for future endeavors. You will find a wealth of information.
https://youtu.be/D6NVXwV7yeg
https://youtu.be/D6NVXwV7yeg
#7
Member
Thread Starter
I did search..Ive only seen a few threads that included people saying it can be done with some heat.What do want from me?.Maybe I suck at the internet...The vid you posted is to just do a pulley swap..I need to remove the entire pulley clutch assembly..
Trending Topics
#8
All you need to do is remove your clutched pulley and replace it with the fixed pulley(pulley swap),5 min job.you dont need to remove the sc magnet(the black drum behind pulley!)