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Originally Posted by MSG 55G
(Post 7643509)
Yeah....I just sniped off the cracked end and re-clamped the hose. Didn’t notice any filters, will check it out next time I’m under car. You have p/n? 2203200069OE |
Okay, now I’m frustrated... i just spent a few hours swapping the airbags. Pulled the battery for a few minutes to reset, started the car. And the left rear is still sitting low (also causing the right rear to swag, but not nearly as much). Brand new Arnott. Exactly what I was afraid of. so what now? Possibility of a bad shock? |
Probably just need to recalibrate airmatic or maybe an issue wih ride height sensor? Can these things get dirty?
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Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651895)
Probably just need to recalibrate airmatic or maybe an issue wih ride height sensor? Can these things get dirty?
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So way it works is you get STAR and manually raise and lower each corner while measuring the ride height at each corner until it's all at spec then the car saves those heights as correct and will automatically maintain them AFAIK.
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Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651898)
So way it works is you get STAR and manually raise and lower each corner while measuring the ride height at each corner until it's all at spec then the car saves those heights as correct and will automatically maintain them AFAIK.
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Oh noticed your talking rear unit they share a ride height sensor between em from memory. Calibrating might still help.
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I’m sure that will help. I doubt that will cure my issue. |
This isn’t a few mm difference. The left rear wheel is slammed. It’s getting air because it went from “hella flush” to slammed, raise maybe 1” |
How much lower is it than the other side? Most times the default calibrations are still good I think. Since there is a process to calibrate it is anticipated that some cars might exceed tolerances, kind of like how cars need to be aligned all the time the airmatic can need adjustment from time to time. Get a tape measure and go to even surface and see what the center of the wheel arc is compared to the ground
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Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651909)
How much lower is it than the other side? Most times the default calibrations are still good I think. Since there is a process to calibrate it is anticipated that some cars might exceed tolerances, kind of like how cars need to be aligned all the time the airmatic can need adjustment from time to time.
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Okay that sounds like you have a leaking air line to the airbag or leak in the um valve box unit that distrubtes the pressure from the pump to each corner.
edit to add: spray the lines and block with soapy water and fire it up. Could just take to mechanic fixing a crap line shouldnt cost much scrillas... |
The car was fine before I did the brakes. Put the car back on the ground after the brakes and now it ****ed. Pisses me off. |
Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651912)
Okay that sounds like you have a leaking air line to the airbag or leak in the um valve box unit that distrubtes the pressure from the pump to each corner.
edit to add: spray the lines and block with soapy water and fire it up. Could just take to mechanic fixing a crap line shouldnt cost much scrillas... |
Yeah mate I did one front strut and then the other went. Here in New Zealand shipping is expensice then 15% on top plus 50 dollar import fee I wish I did coilovers too, the airmatics good for getting over speed bumps tho. I think it wont cost u much more to resolve it an airline cant cost dat much surely.
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Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651924)
Yeah mate I did one front strut and then the other went. Here in New Zealand shipping is expensice then 15% on top plus 50 dollar import fee I wish I did coilovers too, the airmatics good for getting over speed bumps tho. I think it wont cost u much more to resolve it an airline cant cost dat much surely.
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Well there is only the valve block, airline or electronic connection to the airbag left since the airbag is new (could be faulty but doubt it. The pump shouldnt be running for 3 minutes the air is lost somewhere. It takes my car like 10 seconds to go from low to raised suspension modes so where is all the air being pumped for 3 minutes? Probably the atmosphere...
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So before I replaced the bags, I had to deflate the left rear in order for me to remove the bag. If there were a leak in the line, I feel like it would have been deflated. The car had been sitting for 5 days with the pump unplugged. Another reason why I doubt it’s a line if the shock (not the bag) we’re blown, wouldn’t I have the symptoms I’m experiencing? |
I'm no expert but the way I understand a shock to work is based on compression resistance. So they dont hold up much weight aka you can hand compress them but as you push them in resistance grows and it pushes back. Traditionally a spring or airbag is carrying the 500 odd kg per Corner not the shock but as I said I'm no expert just a cooked cu*nt haha
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Originally Posted by PieRat
(Post 7651962)
I'm no expert but the way I understand a shock to work is based on compression resistance. So they dont hold up much weight aka you can hand compress them but as you push them in resistance grows and it pushes back. Traditionally a spring or airbag is carrying the 500 odd kg per Corner not the shock but as I said I'm no expert just a cooked cu*nt haha
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Were the old bags stock? Did you cut the hoses off and left the reservoir in place? Could there be a leak at the air hose attaching to new bags? Im no mechanic but when I changed rear bags I didn’t need to Recalibrate. I left the stock reservoir tank in place with the cut off hoses still attached. Gonna remove them later. |
Originally Posted by MSG 55G
(Post 7651983)
Were the old bags stock? Did you cut the hoses off and left the reservoir in place? Could there be a leak at the air hose attaching to new bags? Im no mechanic but when I changed rear bags I didn’t need to Recalibrate. I left the stock reservoir tank in place with the cut off hoses still attached. Gonna remove them later. The stangest thing is when I cut the hose on the left side, it definitely still had air in it and this is the side I thought was shot. Thats why why I was asking about the shock itself. I know in a traditional car, the weight of the car rests on the shock. I’m wondering if the weight of the W211 rests on the shock and the airbag assists or if it’s the other way around. Because the bag holds air, just at a 30% capacity (old and new). |
Originally Posted by zhmorrow13
(Post 7652140)
yes The old bags were oem. They did have the hose attached, and I just cut them off since that camp seemed to be crimped on the bag. I also left the hose and reservoir. The stangest thing is when I cut the hose on the left side, it definitely still had air in it and this is the side I thought was shot. Thats why why I was asking about the shock itself. I know in a traditional car, the weight of the car rests on the shock. I’m wondering if the weight of the W211 rests on the shock and the airbag assists or if it’s the other way around. Because the bag holds air, just at a 30% capacity (old and new). I would check all possible installation oversights before changing shock or compressor components. Air hoes connection to nipple of bags, bags facing properly torward wheel, you did say prior to changing bags that car would pump up when you start it right? |
Yes, before changing the bags The same thing would happen. The car the raise. Left rear just doesn’t get as high as it should, it’s flush with the top of the wheel (stock 18’s) and the right rear is at the top of the tire. When I start the car (with old bags or new bags) I would be able to see the rear raising but it would stop once the top of the wheel is exposed, and it will hold that position. |
I didn't read this whole thread, but there are only 3 height sensors. One in the rear and one on each front corner. Is the opposite side front too high?
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