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My 07 E63 has a leak from the front engine cover, at the bottom, passenger side. Seems like a big job. Anyone has this done at the dealer? What's cost? Does it require to lift the whole engine up? I guess it's better to have it done at the dealership. Thank you for any inputs.
I wouldn't take it to the dealership at this moment. Explore some independent shop first, for an estimate. I know that my shop can do the job, they would most likely remove the core support, drain the radiator and AC compressor and remove it. Then remove serpentine belt, and accessory drive, alternator, power steering pump, etc. After all has been removed from the front of the engine, remove engine cover, and replace gaskets and seals. Again one doesn't need to pull the engine, just remove components, thereby gaining access to the front engine cover. My best advice shop around for the best price, and for someone very familiar with the M156. This can be done without effecting engine timing, if someone tells you any different run away.
Wow, sounds scary! I guess when I shop around, I will need to ask them what and how are they going to fix this to compare with the steps you have mentioned. If it costs $2k-3K, it doesn't make sense to spend that much on an old car, maybe it's time to move on to the next car. On the other hands, I don't think I can buy anything like a E63 with around $15k.
I have a mechanic who has been fixing on my car in my garage but for a big job like this, I don't feel comfortable letting him do it. Thank you for your help!!!
Sorry if this is late, I recently replaced my M156 head cover gaskets and wondered about the timing case cover gasket as well, just in case. I looked up the procedure in WIS and ASRA. The deal is serious. Mercedes prescribes removing the engine from car on a stand, removing a bunch of components (P/S pump, A/C compressor, alternator), oil pan, valve covers, recover all sorts of fluids. ASRA shows 7.1 + 0.4 + 7.7 = 15.2 hours just in labor alone by a trained tech with readily available tools/equipment.
I became bolder over the years, but would not take on this job DIY in a typical household garage. This is clearly a pro shop job. Hope this helps.
So funny the guy says it should not cost more etc. and it should not be this or that. I've been a wrench twister for a long time. And from experience doing that sort of job with no space to work around stuff, as well as how super clean the surfaces need to be to reseal everything, I agree with the post about the WIS procedure that engine needs to be out of car, that is if you don't want more leaks from other area's as well.
It's not the whole front cover leak. Got a quote from a Mercedes indy shop, it's a cylinder head top front cover on the right side. $299 for labor, $84 for vc gasket, yes they have to redo this, and $7 for the timing cover gasket. It didn't sound terrible so I am asking you guy if this can be done in my garage because I have a mobile mechanic who has been working on my car. He's the one replaced the vc gaskets for me.
Dude, I bet you were hyped to get that news! Also known as a camshaft adjuster cover seal. There are two. I was just reading up on this here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...l-leaking.html It sounds like its not very difficult after you remove the valve covers. No need to mess with cam timing or anything. It just unbolts. Full disclosure: I don't have experience with this job nor I have I done it before so not sure if you can do it or not. But if he did your VC's, surely he can do this. Just read up on the job so your buddy knows the ins and outs.
Keep this thread updated if you do end up doing it because this job may be in my future soon. Maybe try to do a writeup?
I took my car to get a second opinion this morning. They saw the leak at the camshaft adjuster housing and also at the bottom of the cylinder head as well. They don't know if that the oil leak running down there or it actually a leak at the bottom cylinder head. They clean up everything, put some dye in asked me to come back tomorrow to take a second look. They also saw some leaks by the oil cooler line, not too bad though. Will keep this updated.
Have you by chance ever replaced or looked at your crankcase breather hose/valve? I ask this because I know it increases pressure in the engine causing oil to push through seals when it normally would we proper pressure. Mine is going bad and I’m about to replace it this week but it seems like oil has been finding ways out due to the high pressure.
No, I have not checked the crankcase breather hose/valve. Will look at this some other time.
The second shop has confirmed that the oil leak from the bottom came from the top front camshaft cover. What a release! My tech can do this in my garage but he has a concern about the torque specs. Does anyone know what are torque specs for valve cover and camshaft cover?
Here are the torque specs from doc # ar01.20-p-5014tmg for M156:
Bolt, cylinder head cover to cylinder head - M6 - 8.5 Nm
Screw/bolt, ignition coil to cylinder head cover - 6 Nm
Remember to tighten the bolts in the correct sequence, starting from the middle of the cover. This is a common cause for oil leaks after the seal replacement.
I suspect that you figured out the gasket/seal part numbers. You will need the right (p/n A 156 016 24 21 64) and left (p/n A 156 016 25 21 64) sides - they are different and 8 round spark plug seals (p/n A 156 016 21 21). These part numbers work for the aluminum covers on my M156. Check your engine compatibility.
Do not forget to have the spark plug grease on hand. When removing/reinstalling the ignition coils, you need to lube the rubber cups or they can tear from pulling. Mercedes grease p/n A 002 989 80 51, which you can order from eBay for $9~10 (item # 183718416446). Depending on mileage, you may want to consider replacing the spark plugs too. The manual states 80K miles replacement interval.
Wow, it's a whole lot easier than I thought. I actually spent a lot more time with the valve cover. For the camshaft housing front cover, just untighten 5 bolts then remove it forward. The gasket I bought from MB was perfectly fit, just snapped it in and it securely stay, no need for sealant. Got a can of electric cleaner, clean every things real good before you put the gasket in. For the vc, make sure you tighten the bolts following the sequence in maxusa's diagram.
Glad to hear you got it done. Are you leak free now? How long did it take?
I recently did my valve cover gaskets but still have a leak somewhere. It looks to be coming from around the cam shaft housing cover(drivers side), oil filter housing but not sure? It’s really hard to tell from the top.
I will say im not sure my mechanic followed that tightening procedure on the VC’s. I don’t see any visible leaks from VC’s anymore? How strict is this bolt procedure? Now I’m wondering if I may be leaking from the lower valve covers possibly as a result of not tightening them correctly.
Dustin, were you seeing oil collect on the plastic ground shield toward the front right (driver) side of engine bay? I don’t have any oil on my belts if that makes a difference.
It's been 3 days and I checked for the leak every day. I believe my car is leak free now. I replaced the vc gasket on the driver side only 1 time and luckily it took care the leak. For the passenger side, I had to do it 4 times. I am not sure but it could be the leak from the camshaft housing running down to vc bottom. Following the sequence to tighten the bolts really helped. I didnt have to use the sealant at all.
It took me over 4 hours but because I had some round off bolts on my VC. The camshaft housing was very easy and took me about 45minutes or less. You should replace it if you decide to redo the vc gasket.
Glad to hear you got it done. Are you leak free now? How long did it take?
I recently did my valve cover gaskets but still have a leak somewhere. It looks to be coming from around the cam shaft housing cover(drivers side), oil filter housing but not sure? It’s really hard to tell from the top.
I will say im not sure my mechanic followed that tightening procedure on the VC’s. I don’t see any visible leaks from VC’s anymore? How strict is this bolt procedure? Now I’m wondering if I may be leaking from the lower valve covers possibly as a result of not tightening them correctly.
Dustin, were you seeing oil collect on the plastic ground shield toward the front right (driver) side of engine bay? I don’t have any oil on my belts if that makes a difference.
Jack up the car, remove the middle belly panel, locate the leak, spray and clean the area. Cover the panel back. Put a dye on the engine. Driver the car for a day. Reopen the panel and use an UV flash light, you can tell where the leak coming from by following the green oil leak. Hope this help.
03-11-2019, 12:54 PM
