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Why Are E55 Shorty Headers So Expensive I Don’t Want To Go Stock

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Old 03-12-2019, 12:27 AM
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2003 W211 E500
Why Are E55 Shorty Headers So Expensive I Don’t Want To Go Stock

I am on my second set of stock manifolds for my E55 and the driver side has separated again at the flange. I live in So Cal and do not want to put on mid lengths or long tubes because I want to keep my primary cats for CA emissions purposes. I also want to let the motor breath a little more then stock and wrap them. The long tubes and mid lengths range from $500 to $1200 depending on the brand. I’ve looked all over and cannot find an affordable set of shorty bolt on headers for this car. Any input would be appreciated.
Old 03-12-2019, 01:29 AM
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As far as I am aware there are only 1-2 choices for shorties. They definitely don't open up and help the motor breath as they don't address the restrictive downpipe flange. This is probably why there are next to no choices on the market as most people want mid/full length headers. If you are cracking stock manifolds you definitely will crack aftermarket shorties. There must be a reason for it, I know you said you replaced the motor mounts in another thread but cracking stock ones is not especially common.
Old 03-12-2019, 02:16 AM
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The new/used manifolds that I put on were used take offs as well. I was told that heat is a major culprit in them cracking. Is my motor running to hot? I have never overheated and I just replaced my radiator and expansion tank (I do notice some coolant residue by the new expansion tank cap but no leaks and coolant level is fine. The manifold actually cracked (is actually totally separated at the flange that bolts the manifold to the x pipe) after the dealer installed my new fuel system (he had to remove it at the flange in order to get the old fuel tank out). Maybe they tightened them to much at the x-pipe flange?

Originally Posted by tw2
As far as I am aware there are only 1-2 choices for shorties. They definitely don't open up and help the motor breath as they don't address the restrictive downpipe flange. This is probably why there are next to no choices on the market as most people want mid/full length headers. If you are cracking stock manifolds you definitely will crack aftermarket shorties. There must be a reason for it, I know you said you replaced the motor mounts in another thread but cracking stock ones is not especially common.
Old 03-12-2019, 02:48 AM
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I also need to keep the shorties because of California emissions.

Originally Posted by sidewayzgt
The new/used manifolds that I put on were used take offs as well. I was told that heat is a major culprit in them cracking. Is my motor running to hot? I have never overheated and I just replaced my radiator and expansion tank (I do notice some coolant residue by the new expansion tank cap but no leaks and coolant level is fine. The manifold actually cracked (is actually totally separated at the flange that bolts the manifold to the x pipe) after the dealer installed my new fuel system (he had to remove it at the flange in order to get the old fuel tank out). Maybe they tightened them to much at the x-pipe flange?
Old 03-12-2019, 03:07 AM
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I haven't had a good look at how it is setup but are there any brackets missing or bolts missing or overtightened and snapped? Is it just one side or both?

I was more meaning that you might be better off finding yet another set of stock ones rather than going to aftermarket which are even more likely to crack. You could get a custom set made. They might even be able to re-weld the top of the downpipe with the flange from the cat to remove the restriction- I don't know if this is allowed with your emissions inspections.
Old 03-12-2019, 08:21 AM
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Just get the california legal shorty headers and put a flexi joint in there. get rid of the restrictive flange.

Yes this is going to cost more than your $400 but do you want to fix this issue or do you want to keep making thread on here complaining about the issue?

So many things could cause your headers to break. Poor factory design, Abuse, damaged/worn out engine and trans mounts and as I mentioned in the other thread just plain heat.

I have told you twice now what most likely caused your issue and how to fix it.

BTW I build SS headers for these cars (right hand drive not is USA). It is what is nobody other than some chinese kids are going to make you a "quality" header system for less than 700 bucks. Mine cost significantly more than that and I can buy 2 or 3 sets of chinese longtubes for what it cost ME an experienced fabricator to make them.

If you think you are going to get domestic style $200 shorty headers for these cars I suggest you dont hold your breath...
Old 03-12-2019, 04:55 PM
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Where are you in So Cal? Pm me if you’re close to the OC and you can check out my set up.
Old 03-13-2019, 06:52 PM
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Nothing wrong with shorties if you want to put some work into them . I took a set of used PLM's and cut the fange off,installed a 2.5" 3 bolt collector and than cut the down pipe off and installed a 2.5" pipe. Opened everything right up !!
It will take some welding but well worth it. Had everything jet hot coated as well.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
Nothing wrong with shorties if you want to put some work into them . I took a set of used PLM's and cut the fange off,installed a 2.5" 3 bolt collector and than cut the down pipe off and installed a 2.5" pipe. Opened everything right up !!
It will take some welding but well worth it. Had everything jet hot coated as well.
That is a good solution if mids/long are off the table. I considered doing this myself a while ago. I presume it made a noticeable difference?
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:04 PM
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Don't know. Will know for sure at the next 1/2mile event on April 20th. I do know that 1.5 lb's of boost has disapeared so there had to be a big restriction for sure with less than 2" of a bottle neck removed.

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