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Well i recently changed my front rotors and pads. Ever since at about 70mph i get a vibration from the front through the steering wheel. Not sure why changing the brakes would cause this. The nuts were put on properly and torqued on right, I’ve double checked them as well. Why the vibration its really bugging me, any ideas?.
Try balancing your tires at a reputable shop. I had a bad case of vibration with your same description 3-4 months ago and went to a different tire shop than I normally go and vibration gone. I stop going to Allen’s Tires and switch to Americans Tires instead.
This seems to have happened only after the brake change? Is this happening only under braking? If that's the case I would take the brakes apart and make sure the rotors are seated properly on the hubs and then I would make sure the pads are seated correctly in the calipers and the brake caliper cylinder rings don't have debris between the shoes.
If it's a cruising issue I would suggest your wheel(s) are not seated on the hub correctly. Take them off make sure the hub surface is clean and the wheel is clean where it seats on the hub.
Last edited by Fountain35; 05-06-2019 at 02:52 PM.
If it didn t vibrate before the brake job and now it does, Occam's Razor says this is a post- job issue. So like the prevoius reply says, check that mounting surfaces are clean and flush. But before that, the screaming all caps message is... umm.... make damn sure the frikkin lugbolts are tight. Do it now before it drives another inch. It is scary common for shop techs to forget to torque down the wheel bolts.
If it didn t vibrate before the brake job and now it does, Occam's Razor says this is a post- job issue. So like the prevoius reply says, check that mounting surfaces are clean and flush. But before that, the screaming all caps message is... umm.... make damn sure the frikkin lugbolts are tight. Do it now before it drives another inch. It is scary common for shop techs to forget to torque down the wheel bolts.
I did check to lug nits but im gonna take it to another shop have them pulled balanced and then properly put on.
Just wanted to check in, both my fronts were cracked on the inside wall. I changed both tires vibration is almost non existent.
Pic is drivers side passenger side had it as well but about 4 inches in length. He said, seem to have been over inflated. They actually were 60+psi when cold. Another royal **** up by discount wheel warehouse. Wish I knew the damage sooner, better late then never.
Haven't you ever checked your tire pressures? I do this ritual almost monthly with my digital pressure gauge.
Just think that if your were traveling 70-75 mph, that could have gone terribly wrong and could have been a very expensive repair.
Your lucky that you discovered this, beforehand.
Haven't you ever checked your tire pressures? I do this ritual almost monthly with my digital pressure gauge.
I did thats why i knew they were 60+psi. I checked it 2 days after the install. Within those 2 days this happened. Sad thing is a week after installing it i took it to another shop to get flush mount stems installed and they never mentioned how bad these tires were since i never saw them doing the work, sitting inside. I checked pressure called it a day. I check once a month but the problem was there from the get go just never caught it. Even this guy by my house when i took it to get it balanced he didnt catch it i did. When its inflated its not easy to see the cracking. I couldnt he believe though he didnt catch it either. When i asked him about it told me its more then likely over inflated.
My apologies.... Is the shop that you bought your wheel and tires from going to compensate you or replace the damaged tires?
No not at all, they said its too long and i couldve over inflated it. Although this along with another issue i had with them pissed me off. Ive chalked it up to lesson learned. The reason why i went to another shop a few days after they installed it and thank god i checked my regular stem they mounted would hit the brake caliper because its mounted at the center of the wheel. I had to go to another shop and have the install flush mount stems. They knew this and had me drive off leaving me to figure it out. Needless to say now, not just me they have really bad reviews on yelp. Im suprised my tires didnt pop.
I was shocked had no idea it can hold 64psi to be exact and nothing went wrong. Strangely I didn't notice it riding harsh to warrant me into thinking its over inflated. I should’ve known but i didn’t. I didnt drive much after they were installed the car sat till i got my flush mount stems from amazon no tire shop carried them.
Hindsight being 20/20, I've always bought my tires from either Tire Rack our Discount Tire Direct, as they both have tire warranties for damages incurred for all sorts of issues. Luckily I never had to use them. I did however have to use my wheel & tire warranty from BMW, for a screw stuck in my run flat tire on my X5. And I'm glad that I had it, because a 315/35-20 run flat tire isn't cheap.
They run about $463
Hindsight being 20/20, I've always bought my tires from either Tire Rack our Discount Tire Direct, as they both have tire warranties for damages incurred for all sorts of issues. Luckily I never had to use them. I did however have to use my wheel & tire warranty from BMW, for a screw stuck in my run flat tire on my X5. And I'm glad that I had it, because a 315/35-20 run flat tire isn't cheap.
They run about $463
463 in no joke expensive. I wish i knew, I take blame for it as well I should’ve checked way more diligently thats for sure. Now on the rears I have Yokohama Advan Neova R’s and still have bad traction issues. Need another set for the rears that can grip better but not put a huge hole in my pocket. Thinking of Federal RPM’s, Niito NT05’s. Something like those running 275/30/19’s you would think plenty of options but not really.
I run Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 on my E63. Great all-season tire since, I live in Northern Virginia and we see snow.
I wish that I lived in a climate that has one season like where you are. That way I could run performance tire all year.
I will need new rear tires next year, as mine are starting to show some wear on the insides, due to the negative camber.
But for my X5, since BMW no longer offers a spare tire or jack even, your only option is run flats.
You could take a chance and buy regular tires, but what if? That what if, could leave your stranded on the side of the road with little recourse.
I did buy a jack off of eBay for all that's going to do for me. I would have been better off getting a plug kit from Advanced Auto Parts.
I also run the Continental DWS06 on my car and am pleased with the mileage I'm getting out of them. FWIW, I just had installed two each rear tires last Friday. Monday I checked the tire pressure and both were at 47 psi...
At least that tire shop knows I bring my own torque wrench for the lug nuts; I refuse to let them take a pneumatic impact wrench to the lug nuts.
The best things about the Continental Extreme Contact DWS06, is that their wear rating is 560, which means they last 5.6 times as long as the normal tire. So you get a lot of life out of them.
As the letters D (Dry) W (Wet) S (Snow) wear down and are no longer visible on the tread, that indicated that you can no longer drive in that condition.
05-05-2019, 10:13 PM
