Damaged MK113 crankshaft snout:
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Pinning the crank pulley:
Looks like my best case scenario here would be if I’m able to clean up the crank and supplement the marginal keyway by pinning the balancer. Any recommendations as to where where I can source a pinning kit from as well as any information/threads relating to the procedure itself?
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
Looks like my best case scenario here would be if I’m able to clean up the crank and supplement the marginal keyway by pinning the balancer. Any recommendations as to where where I can source a pinning kit from as well as any information/threads relating to the procedure itself?
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Pinning kit:
Whereabouts is the best place to purchase a pinning kit ? I’ve noticed that VRP includes one with their modular pulley setup, but does not appear to sell it separately.
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
It was a custom order, but they already had the engineering done for the damper and then I had them add the pulley. If you are interested, contact Harvey at ATI and tell him you need the damper on drawing SK260G1 and the pulley on drawing SK260G6. Also you'll need a stepped water pump pulley. (I got it from VRP).
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Modifying keyway:
So I finally got a better look at the situation (first photo), and I’m wondering about leaving the timing gear/cover in place and just using a Dremel to lengthen the keyway towards the front of the crank and use a piece of hardened stock to create a new key (see photos two and three).
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
Looks to me like you've got multiple issues there.
How is the oil seal going to seal on all that munted surface going on?
Are you going to be forever questioning if that pulley is going to stay on and the oil is going to stay in your engine??
You need to go back to the start of this thread where the word "lawyer" was mentioned and get on the phone to one imo.
The next thing thats libel to happen if you go with that full length key is it will rip the end clean off that crank. There isnt that much material there really. They designed the original keyway with a round end for a reason I suspect.
Compared to your photo of some other crankshaft and pulley setup with the keyway coming right out theres alot of meat on that crankshaft. I dont see the same 3/4's of material being there on the e55 if you do this.
But then people pin them but with round pins which to me is less of a failure point. I wouldnt want to be the guinea pig on this.
Seems to me if your going to go this route 3 round pins drilled in there using a jig as mentioned earlier might be the way to do it. But its all a waste of time if the oil seal isnt going to seal.
How is the oil seal going to seal on all that munted surface going on?
Are you going to be forever questioning if that pulley is going to stay on and the oil is going to stay in your engine??
You need to go back to the start of this thread where the word "lawyer" was mentioned and get on the phone to one imo.
The next thing thats libel to happen if you go with that full length key is it will rip the end clean off that crank. There isnt that much material there really. They designed the original keyway with a round end for a reason I suspect.
Compared to your photo of some other crankshaft and pulley setup with the keyway coming right out theres alot of meat on that crankshaft. I dont see the same 3/4's of material being there on the e55 if you do this.
But then people pin them but with round pins which to me is less of a failure point. I wouldnt want to be the guinea pig on this.
Seems to me if your going to go this route 3 round pins drilled in there using a jig as mentioned earlier might be the way to do it. But its all a waste of time if the oil seal isnt going to seal.
Last edited by austingtir; 05-09-2020 at 12:50 AM.
#37
Clean up the snout Put a new Front cover seal in it, seal the crank to balancer surface with some anaerobic sealer, pin it with 2 round pins 180* apart and seal the bolt end and tighten to Spec. If you can get the original key way back in place this is your best method. Replacing the crank is definitely the best and right way to do it.
If an insurance company is part of the deal they will probably total the car for the cost of the crank replacement. I certainly wouldn’t want the shop that did this to replace the crankshaft.
If an insurance company is part of the deal they will probably total the car for the cost of the crank replacement. I certainly wouldn’t want the shop that did this to replace the crankshaft.
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Question: where can I get my hands on a pinning kit? VRP includes one with their modular balancer, but does not sell the kit separately. Weistec tells me their pinning kit is designed only to work with their balancer.
#40
At this point you probably don’t want to use the damaged balancer. I wouldn’t if I want to make the best chance if this working. Buy one that works with the balancer and loctite the bolt as well. If you do this with a good balancer chances are that it’s never going to need to come off again for replacement or service of other components underneath.
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I have a new OEM balancer from FCP Euro (the one which spun off is pooched). Though I could probably send it back and order an aftermarket unit which comes as a kit with the pin kit. The UPD looks good. I wonder if they offer a factory size pulley option for it?