What would you say is the best wax to use on a brand new black E63-S
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What would you say is the best wax to use on a brand new black E63-S
Hey guys,
I am finally and AMG owner again!!!! Just picked up a 2014 E63s Sedan.
The color outside is black. What do you folks recommend to use for a first wax? I will do it myself by hand, should I go carnuba or synthetic?
Thanks again.
I am finally and AMG owner again!!!! Just picked up a 2014 E63s Sedan.
The color outside is black. What do you folks recommend to use for a first wax? I will do it myself by hand, should I go carnuba or synthetic?
Thanks again.
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chicago, Illinois
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'11 911 Turbo S, '15 HELLCAT, '07 Escalade, '15 Sienna
Congrats! I GT a black one to.
My best recommendation is to get it professionally detailed/paint corrected/clear bra the whole front end, and then opticoat it.
My best recommendation is to get it professionally detailed/paint corrected/clear bra the whole front end, and then opticoat it.
#5
There is really no "best" wax for a black car. It also depends on whether you're waxing by hand or using an orbital as well as how frequently you're going to wax the car.
Personally, I don't have as much time anymore to wax my cars so I use a sealant instead. I personally use and like Optimum Spray Wax. If you have more time, then I'd suggest taking a look at Lusso Oro Premium Carnauba Wax.
Personally, I don't have as much time anymore to wax my cars so I use a sealant instead. I personally use and like Optimum Spray Wax. If you have more time, then I'd suggest taking a look at Lusso Oro Premium Carnauba Wax.
#6
Super Member
OCW (Optimum Car/Spray Wax) is great - the trick for black is a the washing technique. Make sure to use two buckets at all times to avoid introducing swirls. Personally I would coat the car and then put OCW on it.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
megiuars nxt 2.0 is avery good simple synthetic wax that is easy to apply and remove by hand...u can also use a dual action with it
if u want to go higher end, meguiars still has very good stuff
your technique is more important than product chouice
if u want to go higher end, meguiars still has very good stuff
your technique is more important than product chouice
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys,
Thanks for the warm welcome!!!!
I am tight on time so I think this is my route:
or
What do you guys think, paste or liquid wax? How does this compare to a sealant and how long should it hold for?
Thanks for the warm welcome!!!!
I am tight on time so I think this is my route:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1400628312&sr=8-3&keywords=car+wax
or
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Paste-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCS4PK/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1400628850&sr=1-8&keywords=wax
What do you guys think, paste or liquid wax? How does this compare to a sealant and how long should it hold for?
Last edited by gstatus929; 05-20-2014 at 07:36 PM.
#9
Super Member
If you order from Detailer's Domain you should have it delivered by the weekend. I would go with optimum spray wax if you can get it. Awesome stuff.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I ordered the meguairs liquid ultimate wax. Can I apply it now to the car on the first wash seeing that it already may have wax on it from the selling dealer?
#12
Yes, if you don't believe you need to correct for any dealer fu**-ups, do the following:
1. Come up with a washing regimen. As others have mentioned, black ceramicoat is good stuff, but is sensitive to how you (or anyone) washes the car. I recommend:
a. a low-power electric pressure washer with a
b. foam gun attachment
c. foam car wash such as Chemical Guys Honeydew
d. A nice microfiber mitt
e. a 5-gal bucket with a grit guard for constant mitt rinsing
f. a leaf-blower like a Toro Ultra for drying
d. a bunch or regualrly washed microfiber towels to use with Ammo Hydrate (or similar) for the last wipe-over.
2. Wash the car with Dawn, Joy, or other non-abrasive dishwasher liquid.
3. Clay-bar the entire car, including the windshield, etc. This will remove overspray and other contaminants introduced in shipping and assembly.
4. wash with joy/dawn/etc again
5. apply Megs Ultimate liquid.
1. Come up with a washing regimen. As others have mentioned, black ceramicoat is good stuff, but is sensitive to how you (or anyone) washes the car. I recommend:
a. a low-power electric pressure washer with a
b. foam gun attachment
c. foam car wash such as Chemical Guys Honeydew
d. A nice microfiber mitt
e. a 5-gal bucket with a grit guard for constant mitt rinsing
f. a leaf-blower like a Toro Ultra for drying
d. a bunch or regualrly washed microfiber towels to use with Ammo Hydrate (or similar) for the last wipe-over.
2. Wash the car with Dawn, Joy, or other non-abrasive dishwasher liquid.
3. Clay-bar the entire car, including the windshield, etc. This will remove overspray and other contaminants introduced in shipping and assembly.
4. wash with joy/dawn/etc again
5. apply Megs Ultimate liquid.
#16
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Northern VA
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2003 Chevy Tahoe
Long post to follow -
Agree with dr. ss - professional multi-stage paint correction, new protectant to replace OptiCoat is called Modesta, then 3M clear bra the entire front to include pillars, door handle wells, and splash points on side skirts.
Some think my weekly wash routine is a bit OCD but my 8 year old car looks better than most new benzos sitting on the dealer's lot
I strongly recommend you take it to a professional detailer for a multi-stage paint correction. The guy needs to have experience with late model MBs as it's easy to screw up the newer ceramic clear coats. Following the paint corrections I'd have them seal the entire car in Modesta, which is the newest product since OptiCoat came on the market. Finally, a full 3M clear bra custom installed. Total package will cost around $3K, but well worth every penny.
Below are my general tips for my what weekly wash routine. I spend about three to four hours every week on my car. Longer when necessary. For a quick exterior wash it'll only take 90-min or so.
Weekly Detail Routine (Car has had professional 3-stage paint correction and sealed with OptiCoat): 5-bucket method using 4 buckets with grit guards. Use warm water and Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo. Three dedicated MF wash mitts.
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - Pre-wash the dirt belt (area from the side trim down): Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: Modesta/OptiCoat are highly hydrophobic coatings. You can completely dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only. Do not “wipe” the car, but pat it with MF towels.
Absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect.
Takes about 90 minutes to wash & dry the exterior. The remainder of time is spent q-tipping the side trim, treating the rain gutters, door seals and interior. It may be a bit OCD - but if you've spent $100K on your car why trust it with a $20 wash??
A couple of afterthoughts. Dedicate your MF mitts to their specific jobs - one for wheels only, one for the dirt belt and one for overall cleaning. Dedicate your MF towels to their specific functions as well - one set dedicated to exterior drying only, one set for trim work, glass cleaning, interior trim, leather, etc. If you're going to this level of detail - proper care of your MF is highly recommended. I wash my MF in similar batches so as not to mix dirty with cleaner towels, or greasy/oily with exterior finish towels. I wash them twice after use, both times with Detailer's Microfiber Cleaner, and white vinegar in the rinse cycle on delicate. Airdry them with no heat, and no dryer towel. Stored in a plastic tub with snap-top lid to keep out dust while being stored.
Hope this helps!
Agree with dr. ss - professional multi-stage paint correction, new protectant to replace OptiCoat is called Modesta, then 3M clear bra the entire front to include pillars, door handle wells, and splash points on side skirts.
Some think my weekly wash routine is a bit OCD but my 8 year old car looks better than most new benzos sitting on the dealer's lot
I strongly recommend you take it to a professional detailer for a multi-stage paint correction. The guy needs to have experience with late model MBs as it's easy to screw up the newer ceramic clear coats. Following the paint corrections I'd have them seal the entire car in Modesta, which is the newest product since OptiCoat came on the market. Finally, a full 3M clear bra custom installed. Total package will cost around $3K, but well worth every penny.
Below are my general tips for my what weekly wash routine. I spend about three to four hours every week on my car. Longer when necessary. For a quick exterior wash it'll only take 90-min or so.
Weekly Detail Routine (Car has had professional 3-stage paint correction and sealed with OptiCoat): 5-bucket method using 4 buckets with grit guards. Use warm water and Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo. Three dedicated MF wash mitts.
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - Pre-wash the dirt belt (area from the side trim down): Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: Modesta/OptiCoat are highly hydrophobic coatings. You can completely dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only. Do not “wipe” the car, but pat it with MF towels.
Absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect.
Takes about 90 minutes to wash & dry the exterior. The remainder of time is spent q-tipping the side trim, treating the rain gutters, door seals and interior. It may be a bit OCD - but if you've spent $100K on your car why trust it with a $20 wash??
A couple of afterthoughts. Dedicate your MF mitts to their specific jobs - one for wheels only, one for the dirt belt and one for overall cleaning. Dedicate your MF towels to their specific functions as well - one set dedicated to exterior drying only, one set for trim work, glass cleaning, interior trim, leather, etc. If you're going to this level of detail - proper care of your MF is highly recommended. I wash my MF in similar batches so as not to mix dirty with cleaner towels, or greasy/oily with exterior finish towels. I wash them twice after use, both times with Detailer's Microfiber Cleaner, and white vinegar in the rinse cycle on delicate. Airdry them with no heat, and no dryer towel. Stored in a plastic tub with snap-top lid to keep out dust while being stored.
Hope this helps!
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 264
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Received 2 Likes
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2 Posts
2003 Chevy Tahoe
Forgot to add - when I do use wax I use Pinnacle Souverän Carnauba Paste Wax. It's expensive, and not to refute anyone's favorite product but after you've tried it you will never go back to Meguiars. Do a side-by-side comparison for yourself - I think you'll agree, and the finish is UFB!
#18
Senior Member
Some weak wax recommendation.
My steps are
Wash
Blow Dry
Clay
Rinse
Blow Dry
DA with orange hex foam using 36 chemical guys
DA with black hex foam using 38 chemical guys
DA blackfire wetdiamond finish protection or DA dodo juice supernatural.
Both sealer gives it a nice wet look with deep depth.
Good luck!
My steps are
Wash
Blow Dry
Clay
Rinse
Blow Dry
DA with orange hex foam using 36 chemical guys
DA with black hex foam using 38 chemical guys
DA blackfire wetdiamond finish protection or DA dodo juice supernatural.
Both sealer gives it a nice wet look with deep depth.
Good luck!
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
All "Optimum" products are outstanding.
Their metal polish is phenomenal. Cleans extremely well and is very slick. It will keep your exhaust tips looking like brand new.
Their metal polish is phenomenal. Cleans extremely well and is very slick. It will keep your exhaust tips looking like brand new.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Congrats on the E63
I've used alot of different waxes (both carnuba and synthetic) synthetic seems to last longer and adds more of a protective layer. I would lean towards synthetic since its more durable.
I would recommend Klasse all in one, or liquid glass if your going with a synthetic wax.
Id highly recommend Dodo juice purple haze, (specially formulated for black paint) or P21S. Really cant go wrong with any of the products mentioned above.
I've used alot of different waxes (both carnuba and synthetic) synthetic seems to last longer and adds more of a protective layer. I would lean towards synthetic since its more durable.
I would recommend Klasse all in one, or liquid glass if your going with a synthetic wax.
Id highly recommend Dodo juice purple haze, (specially formulated for black paint) or P21S. Really cant go wrong with any of the products mentioned above.
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Wax alone won't make the car any better unless you remove the swirls and contamination on the paint after that you can use $5 wax or $1000 wax all the same. things changed you can use sealant or coating those two will make a difference. GL
^ I agree with these products
Welcome back to the forum
Congrats on the E63
I've used alot of different waxes (both carnuba and synthetic) synthetic seems to last longer and adds more of a protective layer. I would lean towards synthetic since its more durable.
I would recommend Klasse all in one, or liquid glass if your going with a synthetic wax.
Id highly recommend Dodo juice purple haze, (specially formulated for black paint) or P21S. Really cant go wrong with any of the products mentioned above.
I've used alot of different waxes (both carnuba and synthetic) synthetic seems to last longer and adds more of a protective layer. I would lean towards synthetic since its more durable.
I would recommend Klasse all in one, or liquid glass if your going with a synthetic wax.
Id highly recommend Dodo juice purple haze, (specially formulated for black paint) or P21S. Really cant go wrong with any of the products mentioned above.
Welcome back to the forum
Last edited by Faris63; 05-24-2014 at 06:04 AM.