spare removal and trunk weight capacity?
#1
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spare removal and trunk weight capacity?
This is gonna be an odd question but bear with me...
Getting aftermarket wheels on my new 2016 E63 so I decided to ditch the spare to lose weight... after removing the thing I then went to put the trunk floor back on. However, while doing so I noticed that with the spare there, the trunk floor seems to use part of the hardware on top of the spare as a "load-bearing" support, in the middle. Without that, it seems like 80% of the trunk floor is just free-floating over air. And it's not that thick either. I fear a couple small heavy suitcases could cause it to crack. So now I'm inclined to leave the spare in there for the sole purpose of not breaking my trunk floor.
Am I over-thinking things? Any obvious way to "brace" the trunk floor in the absence of the spare?
Getting aftermarket wheels on my new 2016 E63 so I decided to ditch the spare to lose weight... after removing the thing I then went to put the trunk floor back on. However, while doing so I noticed that with the spare there, the trunk floor seems to use part of the hardware on top of the spare as a "load-bearing" support, in the middle. Without that, it seems like 80% of the trunk floor is just free-floating over air. And it's not that thick either. I fear a couple small heavy suitcases could cause it to crack. So now I'm inclined to leave the spare in there for the sole purpose of not breaking my trunk floor.
Am I over-thinking things? Any obvious way to "brace" the trunk floor in the absence of the spare?
#2
This is gonna be an odd question but bear with me...
Getting aftermarket wheels on my new 2016 E63 so I decided to ditch the spare to lose weight... after removing the thing I then went to put the trunk floor back on. However, while doing so I noticed that with the spare there, the trunk floor seems to use part of the hardware on top of the spare as a "load-bearing" support, in the middle. Without that, it seems like 80% of the trunk floor is just free-floating over air. And it's not that thick either. I fear a couple small heavy suitcases could cause it to crack. So now I'm inclined to leave the spare in there for the sole purpose of not breaking my trunk floor.
Am I over-thinking things? Any obvious way to "brace" the trunk floor in the absence of the spare?
Getting aftermarket wheels on my new 2016 E63 so I decided to ditch the spare to lose weight... after removing the thing I then went to put the trunk floor back on. However, while doing so I noticed that with the spare there, the trunk floor seems to use part of the hardware on top of the spare as a "load-bearing" support, in the middle. Without that, it seems like 80% of the trunk floor is just free-floating over air. And it's not that thick either. I fear a couple small heavy suitcases could cause it to crack. So now I'm inclined to leave the spare in there for the sole purpose of not breaking my trunk floor.
Am I over-thinking things? Any obvious way to "brace" the trunk floor in the absence of the spare?
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Spare+hardware is quite weighty, probably 50+ pounds. Definitely worth the weight savings if you don't need it. I'm handy with tools so I'm sure I can rig up some sort of support, either horizontal or vertical from the center. But it does seem surprising to find such a flimsy trunk floor on a $100k car.
#4
Spare+hardware is quite weighty, probably 50+ pounds. Definitely worth the weight savings if you don't need it. I'm handy with tools so I'm sure I can rig up some sort of support, either horizontal or vertical from the center. But it does seem surprising to find such a flimsy trunk floor on a $100k car.
#5
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Thread Starter
Figured out what I'm going to do... will buy a bunch of lightweight redwood or balsa planks. Cut a hole in the middle of one, to match the dimple on the bottom of the empty spare tire well. Will stack them to about 11 inches, which is the height needed, and screw them together. Then put the stack over the dimple, and secure to the bottom on both sides with strong velcro. Trunk cover on top. Should make for a very solid base and weigh almost nothing.
#6
Senior Member
Thinking out loud.. would 50 pounds make a noticeable difference in your every day drive? Wood in CA is usually not a good idea unless treated.. open a door get a termite and then you have a serious issue.
Also do you want to ride with a flat tire or wait for a couple of hours to get towed?
If just for the track then this is a different story..
Also do you want to ride with a flat tire or wait for a couple of hours to get towed?
If just for the track then this is a different story..
#7
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Figured out what I'm going to do... will buy a bunch of lightweight redwood or balsa planks. Cut a hole in the middle of one, to match the dimple on the bottom of the empty spare tire well. Will stack them to about 11 inches, which is the height needed, and screw them together. Then put the stack over the dimple, and secure to the bottom on both sides with strong velcro. Trunk cover on top. Should make for a very solid base and weigh almost nothing.
Last edited by PeterUbers; 07-13-2016 at 09:20 PM.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Wood is no problem... I've build several car audio systems full of wood, never had issues with odor/termites. But it is kind of an ugly solution not really fitting with the image of a German luxury sedan. Now I suppose I could just drop into Home Depot and get some of those thick metal bars, cut them to size, and somehow attach them to the bottom of the trunk mat. Unless I'm dropping a 300-pound cannonball in the trunk this should be enough bracing...
#10
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Thread Starter
Thinking out loud.. would 50 pounds make a noticeable difference in your every day drive? Wood in CA is usually not a good idea unless treated.. open a door get a termite and then you have a serious issue.
Also do you want to ride with a flat tire or wait for a couple of hours to get towed?
If just for the track then this is a different story..
Also do you want to ride with a flat tire or wait for a couple of hours to get towed?
If just for the track then this is a different story..
Regarding the weight... no, 50-100 pds less is not likely to be noticeable on the butt dyno. But it will be good for a handful of (effective) HP. It's also the principle of the thing... I cannot stand to drive around with useless weight in my vehicles.
Last edited by Stereolab42; 07-13-2016 at 08:57 PM.
#11
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#12
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He will never find termite in the trunk, Unless he lived in the rain Forrest with a leak in the trunk. I can understand to remove dead weight when you are at the track, but I would never remove the spare tire. People keep more junk in the trunk than a few lb of a very useful tool.
if you lived in the bay area, isn't the extra axle, transfer case, and drive shaft are useless weight in your vehicle?
if you lived in the bay area, isn't the extra axle, transfer case, and drive shaft are useless weight in your vehicle?
#13
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
He will never find termite in the trunk, Unless he lived in the rain Forrest with a leak in the trunk. I can understand to remove dead weight when you are at the track, but I would never remove the spare tire. People keep more junk in the trunk than a few lb of a very useful tool.
if you lived in the bay area, isn't the extra axle, transfer case, and drive shaft are useless weight in your vehicle?
if you lived in the bay area, isn't the extra axle, transfer case, and drive shaft are useless weight in your vehicle?
#15
Spare+hardware is quite weighty, probably 50+ pounds. Definitely worth the weight savings if you don't need it. I'm handy with tools so I'm sure I can rig up some sort of support, either horizontal or vertical from the center. But it does seem surprising to find such a flimsy trunk floor on a $100k car.
Good guess! Here's my spare tire+hardware out of my 2010:
I prefer to have the spare tire in the car. I've had a few flats (one in my old E350), and in 10-15 minutes, I've got the spare on the auto and I continue on my mission. Not having a spare?....It ain't worth it to wait for a tow, wait for the shop to change it...blah blah blah. And from a hp/weight ratio, that 47.3 pounds equates to 0.14% increase. If my math is right, that's like having 518.7 horsepower instead of 518.
HP/Weight: 518/4300 = 12.04%
518/(4300-47.3) = 12.18%
HP Increase: 518 * (1 + (.1218 - .1204)) = 518.7
And I don't get why you can't use the spare if you have larger aftermarket wheels. ???
Last edited by omega_jeff; 07-14-2016 at 01:55 AM.
#16
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Your math is off, I think. Let's go by this page:
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-weight-ratio/
And these specs:
http://www.caranddriver.com/mercedes...s-4matic/specs
Stock lbs/hp: 4431/577 = 7.68
Spareless lbs/hp: 4383/577 = 7.60
New "effective" hp: 4431/7.60 = 583
583-577 = 6 HP gain
Not too shabby. I have other mods planned to save at least another 50-100 pounds as well.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-weight-ratio/
And these specs:
http://www.caranddriver.com/mercedes...s-4matic/specs
Stock lbs/hp: 4431/577 = 7.68
Spareless lbs/hp: 4383/577 = 7.60
New "effective" hp: 4431/7.60 = 583
583-577 = 6 HP gain
Not too shabby. I have other mods planned to save at least another 50-100 pounds as well.
#17
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From what I read, running a different size spare can possibly confuse ABS, the transmission, and other things, depending on the car. But I am no tire expert. I would be happy to throw the spare back in for long road trips if I thought it would be safe. Does anyone know more on this subject?
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#22
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Gee, my post here on using styrofoam had disappeared. Anyway, what's the weight capacity of the trunk? Was it around 400 lbs or something?
#23
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correct, but if he keeps at the weight reduction i would start to make a difference...
with no spare, lighter tires(conti dw 12 lbs lighter than contisportcontact 5), lighter rims (probably save 24lbs over stock) and rotors (21.8 in front saving and 16.2 in rear by going girodisc) and lightwieght battery (braile saves about 40 lbs) he could start to be close to -165 lbs which would start to make a difference, especially with about 75 of those lbs being rotational weight savings
the 165 lbs would be like a 22.3 hp gain but with almost half of rotational weight it would feel like more
with all that being said, i usually start looking at weight reduction (unless its free like the spare) only after i've exhausted the usually engine power increases as the weight savings I listed above would cost about $5000 and a tune alone would be way better bang for the buck
with no spare, lighter tires(conti dw 12 lbs lighter than contisportcontact 5), lighter rims (probably save 24lbs over stock) and rotors (21.8 in front saving and 16.2 in rear by going girodisc) and lightwieght battery (braile saves about 40 lbs) he could start to be close to -165 lbs which would start to make a difference, especially with about 75 of those lbs being rotational weight savings
the 165 lbs would be like a 22.3 hp gain but with almost half of rotational weight it would feel like more
with all that being said, i usually start looking at weight reduction (unless its free like the spare) only after i've exhausted the usually engine power increases as the weight savings I listed above would cost about $5000 and a tune alone would be way better bang for the buck
Last edited by gaspam; 07-15-2016 at 06:24 PM.
#24
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correct, but if he keeps at the weight reduction i would start to make a difference...
with no spare, lighter tires(conti dw 12 lbs lighter than contisportcontact 5), lighter rims (probably save 24lbs over stock) and rotors (21.8 in front saving and 16.2 in rear by going girodisc) and lightwieght battery (braile saves about 40 lbs) he could start to be close to -165 lbs which would start to make a difference, especially with about 75 of those lbs being rotational weight savings
the 165 lbs would be like a 22.3 hp gain but with almost half of rotational weight it would feel like more
with all that being said, i usually start looking at weight reduction (unless its free like the spare) only after i've exhausted the usually engine power increases as the weight savings I listed above would cost about $5000 and a tune alone would be way better bang for the buck
with no spare, lighter tires(conti dw 12 lbs lighter than contisportcontact 5), lighter rims (probably save 24lbs over stock) and rotors (21.8 in front saving and 16.2 in rear by going girodisc) and lightwieght battery (braile saves about 40 lbs) he could start to be close to -165 lbs which would start to make a difference, especially with about 75 of those lbs being rotational weight savings
the 165 lbs would be like a 22.3 hp gain but with almost half of rotational weight it would feel like more
with all that being said, i usually start looking at weight reduction (unless its free like the spare) only after i've exhausted the usually engine power increases as the weight savings I listed above would cost about $5000 and a tune alone would be way better bang for the buck
The most I'm spending for weight alone is a Voltphreaks VPH900 coming next week, 40+ pds gone right there. Meisterschaft GTC exhaust on order for sound/performance, should be good for at least 30 pds also I hope? New wheels and tires coming next week for looks, would be a nice bonus if they are indeed lighter. Have not looked into aftermarket rotors, interesting to hear that so much can be saved there... happy with my stock brakes otherwise, but this is a topic I will research more.
#25
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Exactly my thinking... I have no desire to spend a fortune for small weight gains, but if it can be done for a reasonable amount or as a side benefit of something else, why not? I'm also getting a tune but have no desire to modify the engine beyond that for warranty concerns. (I'm not rich enough to laugh off a $40k engine replacement...)
The most I'm spending for weight alone is a Voltphreaks VPH900 coming next week, 40+ pds gone right there. Meisterschaft GTC exhaust on order for sound/performance, should be good for at least 30 pds also I hope? New wheels and tires coming next week for looks, would be a nice bonus if they are indeed lighter. Have not looked into aftermarket rotors, interesting to hear that so much can be saved there... happy with my stock brakes otherwise, but this is a topic I will research more.
The most I'm spending for weight alone is a Voltphreaks VPH900 coming next week, 40+ pds gone right there. Meisterschaft GTC exhaust on order for sound/performance, should be good for at least 30 pds also I hope? New wheels and tires coming next week for looks, would be a nice bonus if they are indeed lighter. Have not looked into aftermarket rotors, interesting to hear that so much can be saved there... happy with my stock brakes otherwise, but this is a topic I will research more.
exhaust will def save you some weight.... my catless downpipe were significantly lighter than the stock piping
for the rotors you can check them out here if you decide to go that route
https://www.amsperformance.com/cart/...rs-a1-022.html