10speed

Hey guys
I'm haveing a front right tire replaced under tire insurance , I will have a used left tire and a new right right, I want to purchaset a new left tire so I have matching tread wear , but dealer says now I need a wheel alignment if I put two new front on ? Is this right ?
Also if you get a front shock and rear shock replaced do we need a wheel alignment? Thanks!

PeterUbers

Not necessary to do alignment by good idea ... also whatever caused the tires damage may have mal aligned the car

shocks also can require an alignment of you drop the suspension for sport/looks

the camber gets affected

10speed

Thanks, The tire had a slow pinhole leak , took MB 4 visits to finally find and tell me there replacing the tire , the front shock was replaced due to a ripped shock boot, I noticed this when I changed my brake pads to low dust .

I seen some YouTube vids of shock replacement requires a wheel alignment but maybe all cars don't apply

Chappy

Alignment is cheap insurance for a smooth ride, better mileage and longer lasting tires. Do it.

10speed

Thanks Chappy I agree with you 100% but I just had an alignment less than 2k miles ago , there saying having 1 used tire and 1 brand new tire I don't need an alignment but if I install 2 new tires then I need an alignment .

PeterUbers

Yeah that sounds like bs to me

Astolfo

Me too, new tires = road force balancing + alignment. In my book anyways.

skark_burmer

If your alignment wasnt bad before replacing a tire, then why would it be bad afterwards?
Now if you have a new tire on one side, and old on the other, you can expect a very teeny tiny pull to one side. Slight different diameter, wear, rubber hardness, age...

If you went in there complaining of a pull to one side or the other, or had poor tire wear, sure you should get an alignment. But you didnt mention anything like that in your post.
Sounds like they just want to charge you for more stuff.
Tires wont change your alignment, so unless you've been curb hopping your alignment should be what it always has been.

They gonna suggest an alignment when you go in for an oil change? What about a set of wipers?

10speed

Thanks , we are definitely on the same page,I guess I had to hear it from someone else , BTW my wear is even and doesn't pull , i never hit a hard hole

Astolfo

Because the car gradually goes out of alignment unless you are so privileged to drive on a bowling lane all the time; the car will sit different with new rubber, even the same model tire can be manufactured in a different country with different compounds (I believe this to be true for Continental, Michelin, and Pirelli. No I can't provide you with the chemical composition for each tire, but I talk to enough "rubber" engineers in F3 GT and a few F1 to believe this is true and by observing how my tires wear and they come from); and lastly because these cars eat the inside shoulders mostly due to the camber.


New tires and alignment go hand in had, oil and tires do not. But then it is your car and do what makes you happy. $100-200 for alignment when I change-swap tires is not a big deal to me. Like getting a regular balance instead of road force, well worth the $.


Roger and over.

skark_burmer

Oh how i love arguing over the internet! :p just kidding.

In all seriousness though, its not been my experience that an alignment 'goes out' unless there is something else in play. Obviously nobody here drives on a glass tabletop all day long, but barring significant hits, an alignment shouldn't change over time until something big enough is hit, or components start to wear/fail.

tie rods wont start unthreading themselves if secured properly, caster angles shouldnt change unless a strut bearing starts going south, camber shouldn't change is the knuckle bolts are tight.

Back to real world driving on these great roads we have... cumulative small hits will start to take their toll, but unless someone is complaining of improper alignment or the tires show evidence of such, i feel its improper to tell someone "you need an alignment because we are going to replace your tires".
To over emphasize my point, go to a dealer, take a car with 0 miles from the showroom floor. Slap on a new set of tires. does that car need an alignment now?

Like you said, to each their own and it is a small cost for peace of mind if it makes you feel better.
To me, it seems like a waste of money 'fixing something that isnt broken'.

K-Mac

Do point out that OEM there is only ‘Toe’ adjustment front (and rear)!

OK if vehicle maintained and driven at showroom height, but day to day commuting with high cambered roads, altering height, load carrying, suspension sag, fitting wide profile tires or curb knock damage – the feature of having “Camber” adjustment to change tire “contact angle” is essential. Along with front “Caster” to correctly resolve steering pull and improve brake and steering response.

For the front (only) you can purchase fluted bolts – but they are inaccurate having ONE ONLY OFFSET POSITION, providing 3mm (1/8”) which is a minimal 0.3 degree change.

We saw the need therefore to design, manufacture and reinstate from the early ‘90’s front kits that provide up to “4 times” this adjustment range and are precise/accurate – on car underload direct on alignment rack. Fixing it right.... the 1st time!

Along with similar rear – also providing Camber (and additional rear Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility). Advantage of the K-MAC rear bush design compared to adjustable “Camber Arms” is that to resolve premature inner edge tire wear Camber arms need to move “top of tire” outwards, diminishing all important clearance to outer fender – K-MAC moves bottom arms inwards and easier access allowing to be adjusted accurately (on car under load).

These unique patented design kits are “single wrench” adjustable. Not only providing “full/precise” adjustment but at the same time replace the ‘4’ front and ‘4’ rear highest wearing suspension bushings and with twice the load bearing area!

The front bushings are 2 axis/self aligning but without the oil and air voids of OEM. Result is noticeably improved brake and steering response. No modifications to fit - come with instructions and extraction/insertion tubes (Rear Camber can be fitted on vehicle).

W211
Front Camber and Caster kit #502216K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) #502526K $480

Delivery $40 one kit or $50 front and rear kits. We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.