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Same issue on my car, worn to the cords on the inner treads after 12k miles, with little wear on the rest of the tread. Both the dealer and an independent alignment shop says this is "as-designed" and there is nothing that can be done.
Yes Toe (directional) adjustment is all that is available OEM (new car industry's best kept secret).
CASTER - Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive / lift under brake and acceleration.
We saw the need therefore to re-instate from the early 90's full precise adjustment capability - TO FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. No more ongoing trips to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands.
No above Camber and Caster adjustment is OK if maintained and driven at showroom height. But the reality of day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads or altered height through load carrying or lowering. Fitting wide profile tires / Wheels, Curb knocks.... Camber and Caster - full adjustment capability is essential.
For the front (only) you can fit inaccurate (one only offset position) fluted bolts - but they only offer a minimal 0.3 degrees (1/8").
The K-MAC patented design front kit provides up to 3 times the adjustment range of the "one position" bolts and is PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTABLE - accurately on car (under load) direct on alignment rack!
Extra feature is that the front kit replaces the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings and is mono ball /2 axis (self aligning) design without the OEM oil and air voids. Result is noticeably improved brake and steering response.
Rear kit also provides precise Camber adjustment for the first time (and extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility). Bush Extraction tool included allowing to fit on vehicle.
Other popular kits manufactured are front "replacement" top strut mounts (coil spring models) - for "Track days" Stage 2 (Street / Race) or Stage 3 (Full race) when wanting to reduce understeer - in the pursuit of hitting those corner apexes every time and going deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response.
Also manufactured is uprated replacement bushings (12) for the '6' multi link rear arms. Providing significant improvement to rear end stability, less twitch / flex, loss of traction especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
W212 incl. AMG Front Camber and Caster kit #502916 K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502226 $480
Stage 2 (Street / Race) Strut adjusters Camber and Caster kit #502916-2 L $545 Stage 3 (Full Race) Strut adjusters Camber and Caster kit #502916-3 L $545
Rear multi link arms performance bush kit (12) #502628 K $480
Delivery one kit $30 (each additional kit $20) PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
See Web Site for complete listing / details Also front page can download catalog ( with page 3 - Quick Reference).
Here are the alignment specs as requested. Look good or are there adjustments that should be made?
The vehicle has front drop springs.. not sure how much.. and it does pull to the right a little sooner than my other vehicles.
Here are the alignment specs as requested. Look good or are there adjustments that should be made?
The vehicle has front drop springs.. not sure how much.. and it does pull to the right a little sooner than my other vehicles.
So basically nothing was done with your alignment, no discernable changes before and after. And you are Toe'ing out on the front, great for sharper steering, horrible for wear
You said above that they installed the camber/caster bolts and did an alignment.
1. Is this still true?
2. Do you have a receipt?
3. Was this printout before and after that installation or were they stupid enough to have taken both these alignment specs after the bolts?
I will be home Thursday to show my settings after this was done. The reason that I ask is because camber is the same on your before and after settings. That is impossible if the bolts were really added. Caster would have changed too. Then toe should have been set around .05-.07.
Sounds like you were scammed. All they did is increase your toe and cause you worse problems.
If they want to argue if the bolts were installed you can tell by looking if a raised line is on top of the bolt head. It is there to doublecheck if they are aligned.
You said above that they installed the camber/caster bolts and did an alignment.
1. Is this still true?
2. Do you have a receipt?
3. Was this printout before and after that installation or were they stupid enough to have taken both these alignment specs after the bolts?
I will be home Thursday to show my settings after this was done. The reason that I ask is because camber is the same on your before and after settings. That is impossible if the bolts were really added. Caster would have changed too. Then toe should have been set around .05-.07.
Sounds like you were scammed. All they did is increase your toe and cause you worse problems.
If they want to argue if the bolts were installed you can tell by looking if a raised line is on top of the bolt head. It is there to doublecheck if they are aligned.
Yes... they added new bolts and made adjustments. The spec sheet should represent before and after. I do have a receipt and I appreciate the feedback.
Remove the splash shield and visually check if new bolts are in there. Remove a nut and tap out the bolt until the threads are exposed under the bolt head. Are there slots?
If yes then your alignment specs are impossible because the bolts change camber and caster.
If no then you were completely scammed.
Either way you need to get your money back and you need to find a really good alignment shop. I drive an hour to get to one.
Either way you need to get your money back and you need to find a really good alignment shop. I drive an hour to get to one.
Went to an alignment shop today and they quickly found the TOE issues you mentioned. The steering wheel feels easier to turn, but the car still wants to move to the right. Here's the new spec sheet. Any other issues?
If you search on Mercedes pulling right you will spend hours reading the posts. I eliminated mine by using the camber/caster bolts and pushing right wheel forward relative to left.
Observations
Camber arms
1. Validate if camber bolts are installed. You are at -1.9 and I am at -.09 and -1.1 after install. Maybe your original camber was worse but you should check.
Caster arms
2. Leave OEM (without slots) caster bolt in driver side. 3. Install slotted bolt in passenger arm and pull inward.
The bolt will pull the caster arm inward and move the passenger wheel forward. This will eliminate your pull. You need another toe alignment after doing this because it throws that off. My toe is at .08 both sides so they could get a little better for you the next time too.
IM me and I can talk you through this if you have any questions. Once you draw the tires and arms on paper and see how they move with the bolts it makes sense.
Btw- If either of us installed fully adjustable arms or kmac bushings then this could be fine tuned to perfection. I am not lowered and drive the car 5k miles a year so didn’t think the expense was worth it.
It took me 3 trips to alignment shop after tweaking the slotted bolts but my camber and toe specs are awesome and there is zero pull to right.
The only fix for your alignment / tire wear issue is a set of camber adjustable upper front control arms with OEM rubber bushings.
F1 Fabrication is the only source for these.
I got about 25K miles out of my first set of tires.
Wow! That is hard to believe... That is close to what I have been getting on average cars, on good tires and 17" wheels and driving hard rarely...
Originally Posted by AMG Rick
Here is what virtually everyone needs. It is a MB camber bolt part # 000-333-10-71 (2 required), about $35 for 2. This will give 1/3 degree positive camber. Very easy install any decent front end shop can do it If you are mechanically inclined you can do it yourself. This will not totally solve the negative camber issue but will go a long way and probably will make the majority of people happy. As previous poster stated correctly " there trying to make a 4500 lb. car corner like a 2000 lb. car" Hope this helps fellow forum members. Be safe.
Has anyone else confirm this solution?
Wikipedia has some simple and up to the point info on alignments:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)
It mentions as one possible solution the use of eccentric bolts for camber correction. Don't know if this what those MB bolts do?
Also, toe out seems to balance the camber in, contrary to what has been suggested here.
Finally, it seems a trend on performance cars to give just toe alignment.
All this is pretty crazy as I can understand the difficult proposition of making a big, heavy and luxury car handle like a sports car, but how has Porsche or even BMW got their solutions to this that seem to be less rubber eaters and not based only on camber in "trick"?
I have this exact same issue on my 2014 e63s... running factory camber (somewhere around -2 or just under) for the rears. Honestly my tires look brand new outside of the inner wear. I’m typically driving on sport plus suspension setting and I believe that lowers the car a bit which would increase negative camber? Am I correct to assume this? So in this case should I have the car in for alignment based on running at sport plus mode? I’ve driven lowered and negative camber cars before but this kind of wear is quite insane... that said the cars I’ve driven in the past is not 4500lbs... FYI wear on front tires seem acceptable
I have this exact same issue on my 2014 e63s... running factory camber (somewhere around -2 or just under) for the rears. Honestly my tires look brand new outside of the inner wear. I’m typically driving on sport plus suspension setting and I believe that lowers the car a bit which would increase negative camber? Am I correct to assume this? So in this case should I have the car in for alignment based on running at sport plus mode? I’ve driven lowered and negative camber cars before but this kind of wear is quite insane... that said the cars I’ve driven in the past is not 4500lbs... FYI wear on front tires seem acceptable
sport and sport plus have the same height... MB or any shop should be doing your wheel aligment in sport mode if they are going by the book..
I had the same issue on the fronts. I had the camber bolts installed and tires are wearing even.
b that’s fantastic to hear I just put another set of front tires on my car after 13,000 miles one year and the inner size were corded ,how much time have you given the camber bolts/how many miles and are you measuring the depth of the tread .I have put the bolts in not long ago so I’m trying to see what information you have getting tired of putting tires on here that are not worn on the outside total waste of tires Mercedes-Benz should be ashamed of their selfs! EPA should go after from for wasting valuable resources and my money !
b that’s fantastic to hear I just put another set of front tires on my car after 13,000 miles one year and the inner size were corded ,how much time have you given the camber bolts/how many miles and are you measuring the depth of the tread .I have put the bolts in not long ago so I’m trying to see what information you have getting tired of putting tires on here that are not worn on the outside total waste of tires Mercedes-Benz should be ashamed of their selfs! EPA should go after from for wasting valuable resources and my money !
my car is lowered and ive gotten multiple dealership alignments my car has burned through multiple sets of expensive Michelin super sports and toyos its insane and if you look at the tire 95% of the tire looks almost completely new while one small strip on the innerside wears down to the wire and you dont even notice unless the car is in the air or it starts vibrating or pops! Ive spent so much on tires and it bothers me a lot... Love the car but thats ridiculous. ive had cars slammed to the ground that had better tire wear than this.
Anyone find it peculiar the door sticker calls for 51psi front/rear for tire psi ?
My understanding of the high PSI is that it depends on the weight of the car to tire width/size ratio. Aftermarket wider tires will require less PSI. There is a formula but that is hard to understand.
08-19-2018, 10:55 PM
