O2 sensors
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2011 e63 amg
O2 sensors
Hello AMG fam, I have a 2011 e63 and I’m trying to get an emission safety inspection in NC but the system scanner showing that I have (sensor 1 bank 1) and (sensor 2 bank 1) are bad, how much that cost to get it fixed?
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2011 e63 amg
I’d appreciate the opinion because it’s at Benz dealership and I wanna have an idea and if there’s any other way to fix the problem because I know it’s gonna be Ton of money to fix those at the dealer but here in NC I don’t trust any of those ****ty ‘European specialists Mechanics’ they suc
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2014 E63s 1993 mazda rx7 on Boost
Was your CEL on when you took the car in
if those sensors are bad you should have have a CEL. if your car is under 80,000 miles the sensors should be covered under the Federal Emission law where emission related partsare coverage until 80k.
O2s are part of the emission system and should be covered.
If they are bad I would change all 4 fresh set of plugs and air filters.
O2s are part of the emission system and should be covered.
If they are bad I would change all 4 fresh set of plugs and air filters.
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
if those sensors are bad you should have have a CEL. if your car is under 80,000 miles the sensors should be covered under the Federal Emission law where emission related partsare coverage until 80k.
O2s are part of the emission system and should be covered.
If they are bad I would change all 4 fresh set of plugs and air filters.
O2s are part of the emission system and should be covered.
If they are bad I would change all 4 fresh set of plugs and air filters.
Also it's good to get the actual error codes. Sometimes those errors are caused by something else like a vacuum leak.
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2011 e63 amg
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I picked the car from the deal today and apparently the auxiliary battery and the starter battery are causing the o2 sensors code to come on and the CEL came on but I got new batteries and everything seems good.
I appreciate the help
I appreciate the help
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2011 e63 amg
So the CEL came back on and the dealer recommended me to change all 4 of them and that gonna cost 2k to change them
I mean I can’t do them myself that’s why
and he told me that only the cat is included in the warranty but not the o2 sensors
I mean I can’t do them myself that’s why
and he told me that only the cat is included in the warranty but not the o2 sensors
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
https://di-uploads-pod7.s3.amazonaws...ty-booklet.pdf
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2014 E63s 1993 mazda rx7 on Boost
make sure the light is on
go to a local shop, have them scan the code and quote you.
I just did 4 O2s Bosch on my 535TT BMW took my 2.5 hrs and the O2 were just over 400 for all 4.
It might be one sensor but I would change both on the bank that is having the code.Make sure air filters are clean plugs are good. and make sure the code is for an O2 being out of spec.
For that price you can fly me in for a weekend...
I just did 4 O2s Bosch on my 535TT BMW took my 2.5 hrs and the O2 were just over 400 for all 4.
It might be one sensor but I would change both on the bank that is having the code.Make sure air filters are clean plugs are good. and make sure the code is for an O2 being out of spec.
For that price you can fly me in for a weekend...
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Oh just read your post again. You're saying that both are bad on bank 1? Get the exact code. That could be an indication that the cat is bad. Or you really meant sensor 1 on bank 1 and 2.
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2011 e63 amg
I checked the warranty and it says 80000 miles or 8 years so I don’t know why he would tell me that the o2 sensors are not included in the warranty. I’m gonna call him tomorrow and see what he has to say about it or call another Benz dealer
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Maybe you should just take it to another inspection station instead of the dealer. And if you want to save about $2k, find out exactly what the codes are. You should get your own code scanner like this one for $85 after the 15% off coupon code, also scans MB codes. Remember, those service advisers are paid on commissions, easy for them to just toss out having you change all 4 sensors when the problem could be something else like a loose wire or a vacuum leak that they will quickly fix after replacing all 4 sensors. They're not there to save you money, they're there to make money for themselves and the dealership.
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You didn't mention the mileage or the type of car. If you read the warranty booklet, all that is a factor. But if you read the section on what's covered for 8/80k or 7/70k, only the starred components are covered for that time period, depending on the state, it may only be 2-3 years. It's best if you have Pzev, there's a lot more coverage for pzev vehicles, but I believe you're not in a Pzev state so it doesn't really matter.
Maybe you should just take it to another inspection station instead of the dealer. And if you want to save about $2k, find out exactly what the codes are. You should get your own code scanner like this one for $85 after the 15% off coupon code, also scans MB codes. Remember, those service advisers are paid on commissions, easy for them to just toss out having you change all 4 sensors when the problem could be something else like a loose wire or a vacuum leak that they will quickly fix after replacing all 4 sensors. They're not there to save you money, they're there to make money for themselves and the dealership.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWSLPNY/
Maybe you should just take it to another inspection station instead of the dealer. And if you want to save about $2k, find out exactly what the codes are. You should get your own code scanner like this one for $85 after the 15% off coupon code, also scans MB codes. Remember, those service advisers are paid on commissions, easy for them to just toss out having you change all 4 sensors when the problem could be something else like a loose wire or a vacuum leak that they will quickly fix after replacing all 4 sensors. They're not there to save you money, they're there to make money for themselves and the dealership.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWSLPNY/
and he told that the system gives weird reading and they don’t know which one is bad or going so he suggested to just change all 4 of them
and those might have went bad or they’re stuck or something because the dealer I bought it from only drove the car for like 300 miles in 6 months or 7 so I don’t what to do I’m confused
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Read that section again. At the bottom of the list, it mentions that only items with a * next to them are covered for 8/80k, the rest are only 2 or 3 years depending on the state.
It's somewhat dubious that they don't have a solid code. If the check engine light is on, then it won't pass emissions. If the code was an old code and just a stored code, then it might pass emissions if it's not an active code. That's why I find the whole thing somewhat curious and suggest taking it to another garage to get an inspection. They will probably just check for active codes and not care about the stored ones. Sounds like the MB dealer might just be drumming up extra business. Ask the dealer why you should replace the downstream ones. It sounds like he's just throwing parts at the problem and not doing a proper diagnoses. 73k is somewhat low mileage for the O2 sensor to go bad unless there's some other problem causing them to go bad like a misfire, MAF or several other things. The actual code would provide more clues, otherwise we're all just guessing here.
It's somewhat dubious that they don't have a solid code. If the check engine light is on, then it won't pass emissions. If the code was an old code and just a stored code, then it might pass emissions if it's not an active code. That's why I find the whole thing somewhat curious and suggest taking it to another garage to get an inspection. They will probably just check for active codes and not care about the stored ones. Sounds like the MB dealer might just be drumming up extra business. Ask the dealer why you should replace the downstream ones. It sounds like he's just throwing parts at the problem and not doing a proper diagnoses. 73k is somewhat low mileage for the O2 sensor to go bad unless there's some other problem causing them to go bad like a misfire, MAF or several other things. The actual code would provide more clues, otherwise we're all just guessing here.
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2011 e63 amg
Yeah I just read it again the o2 sensors part doesn’t have the * on it so it’s unfortunately not included in the 8 years/80k warranty. They checked the car and said everything seems to be perfect other than the o2 sensors so I’m really really confused about what I should here, this car is my first AMG experience and I don’t wanna mess around with it or take it to someone that doesn’t know what he’s doing and possibly mess up something else. If there’s a misfire it should say that on the system right? Idk honestly what to do at this point
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What exactly is the problem again? Did they fail you for emissions? If they're stored codes, they could be ignored because sometimes things like a dead battery can cause all sorts of weird electrical problems. Normally you would just clear the codes and see if they come back. But when you clear the codes, it puts the system into a not ready state and you have to go through a certain drive cycle before it's a ready state. It needs to be in a ready state when they're checking emissions because otherwise people will just clear the code before getting tested. If they didn't fail you for emissions, get the inspection somewhere else and clear those codes and see if they come back. It's still not clear if you have an active check engine light on or not.
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On my small regular system scanner it says (sensor 1 bank 1 and sensor 2 bank 1) and I cleared them and changed the battery and auxiliary battery and the CEL came back and because it was saying not ready and I did the 50-100 miles drive and it came back on. I’m thinking if I can get the inspection done and get the tags I might drive the car for a bit and see if the CEL will go away and everything will come back normal because the car looks in a perfect mechanic shape and all around but Idk if There are other things I should worry about or me driving the car for that long might harm the car or cause other problems because it won’t a small bill and I don’t wanna be stupid so what you recommend from your experience
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On my small regular system scanner it says (sensor 1 bank 1 and sensor 2 bank 1) and I cleared them and changed the battery and auxiliary battery and the CEL came back and because it was saying not ready and I did the 50-100 miles drive and it came back on. I’m thinking if I can get the inspection done and get the tags I might drive the car for a bit and see if the CEL will go away and everything will come back normal because the car looks in a perfect mechanic shape and all around but Idk if There are other things I should worry about or me driving the car for that long might harm the car or cause other problems because it won’t a small bill and I don’t wanna be stupid so what you recommend from your experience
Basically we're all just shooting in the dark without the actual codes.
In case I didn't make it clear, this whole discussion is pointless without the actual code.
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I can’t remember what are the actual codes but I think you’re right from what I remember (bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1) I just got them mixed up but I can always put it on the system tomorrow and tell y’all the actual codes on the car that might help. And I’m saying I wanna drive it because I’ve heard a similar with bad o2 and they drove on it then the CEL and the codes went away because I think they were dirty or something. Idk if it’s a huge that I should be really worried about or something small that could be fixed with no headaches
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That story is like the one where someone wasn't wearing a seat belt and was thrown clear. That's the exception not the rule. Normally when you drive around with a bad O2 sensor, the car runs extra rich or lean both of which can cause damage. It going away could just be a weird electrical glitch that just goes away and doesn't come back. Because yours is coming back, it's probably something else.
http://www.easterncatalytic.com/educ...2-sensors-fyi/
http://www.autorepairinstructions.co...xygen-sensors/
http://automedicsafrica.com/car-runn...t-fuel-supply/
http://www.easterncatalytic.com/educ...2-sensors-fyi/
http://www.autorepairinstructions.co...xygen-sensors/
http://automedicsafrica.com/car-runn...t-fuel-supply/
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Also two bad upstream sensors means something completely different than a bad upstream and downstream in the same bank. My guess is that you have something else going on like a vacuum leak. Again, having the right codes will help.
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So apparently on the system scanner it’s giving 4 codes for all four o2 sensors so idk if that’s possible that all of them will go bad at the same unless there’s another problem that it’s causing that
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What are the actual 4 codes you're getting?