Oil Change additives
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 464
Likes: 99
2014 E63 / 2017 CLS 63 / 2015 G63
Oil Change additives
Do you guys use
Liquimoly Mos2 and Hydraulic lifter together? One can each per oil change.
Or
Two cans of mos2 or two cans of hydraulic lifter per oil change. Without mixing.
I wonder if mixing is the way to go or simply use two per oil change interval.
for instance ceratec shouldn’t be mixed with any other additive.
What do you guys use for additives?
Liquimoly Mos2 and Hydraulic lifter together? One can each per oil change.
Or
Two cans of mos2 or two cans of hydraulic lifter per oil change. Without mixing.
I wonder if mixing is the way to go or simply use two per oil change interval.
for instance ceratec shouldn’t be mixed with any other additive.
What do you guys use for additives?
Last edited by E63SAMG2014; Oct 1, 2023 at 11:54 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 745
Likes: 139
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Do you guys use
Liquimoly Mos2 and Hydraulic lifter together? One can each per oil change.
Or
Two cans of mos2 or two cans of hydraulic lifter per oil change. Without mixing.
I wonder if mixing is the way to go or simply use two per oil change interval.
for instance ceratec shouldn’t be mixed with any other additive.
What do you guys use for additives?
Liquimoly Mos2 and Hydraulic lifter together? One can each per oil change.
Or
Two cans of mos2 or two cans of hydraulic lifter per oil change. Without mixing.
I wonder if mixing is the way to go or simply use two per oil change interval.
for instance ceratec shouldn’t be mixed with any other additive.
What do you guys use for additives?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 464
Likes: 99
2014 E63 / 2017 CLS 63 / 2015 G63
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 745
Likes: 139
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
OK. So you're using the MB branded Mobil 1 oil.
oil. Next question, why do you feel additives are necessary? Are you modified, heavily modified, stock and tuned (mild or aggressively), live in a climate with extreme hot or cold temps, etc........? Do you beat the **** out of your car, even semi-regularly?
I'll jump ahead a bit and say that if you are stock to mildly tuned living anywhere in the US sans death valley or Alaska, maintain your car at manufactured recommended intervals or sooner, use reasonable quality fuel, and don't beat on your car regularly then you are wasting your money.
Additives "can" help, with emphasis placed on the word can and no emphasis on the word do because it is neither absolute or guaranteed. There are multiple factors than can lead to cylinder wall scoring and bent rods extraneous to the oil itself.
There is such a thing as too much additives which can negate what your oil is supposed to do by over diluting it. If it's piece of mind your after, pick one and stick to recommended amounts based on oil quantities per the additives stated recommendations. Additionally, you could start getting smarter about other oil brands and weights.
oil. Next question, why do you feel additives are necessary? Are you modified, heavily modified, stock and tuned (mild or aggressively), live in a climate with extreme hot or cold temps, etc........? Do you beat the **** out of your car, even semi-regularly?
I'll jump ahead a bit and say that if you are stock to mildly tuned living anywhere in the US sans death valley or Alaska, maintain your car at manufactured recommended intervals or sooner, use reasonable quality fuel, and don't beat on your car regularly then you are wasting your money.
Additives "can" help, with emphasis placed on the word can and no emphasis on the word do because it is neither absolute or guaranteed. There are multiple factors than can lead to cylinder wall scoring and bent rods extraneous to the oil itself.
There is such a thing as too much additives which can negate what your oil is supposed to do by over diluting it. If it's piece of mind your after, pick one and stick to recommended amounts based on oil quantities per the additives stated recommendations. Additionally, you could start getting smarter about other oil brands and weights.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 464
Likes: 99
2014 E63 / 2017 CLS 63 / 2015 G63
OK. So you're using the MB branded Mobil 1 oil.
oil. Next question, why do you feel additives are necessary? Are you modified, heavily modified, stock and tuned (mild or aggressively), live in a climate with extreme hot or cold temps, etc........? Do you beat the **** out of your car, even semi-regularly?
I'll jump ahead a bit and say that if you are stock to mildly tuned living anywhere in the US sans death valley or Alaska, maintain your car at manufactured recommended intervals or sooner, use reasonable quality fuel, and don't beat on your car regularly then you are wasting your money.
Additives "can" help, with emphasis placed on the word can and no emphasis on the word do because it is neither absolute or guaranteed. There are multiple factors than can lead to cylinder wall scoring and bent rods extraneous to the oil itself.
There is such a thing as too much additives which can negate what your oil is supposed to do by over diluting it. If it's piece of mind your after, pick one and stick to recommended amounts based on oil quantities per the additives stated recommendations. Additionally, you could start getting smarter about other oil brands and weights.
oil. Next question, why do you feel additives are necessary? Are you modified, heavily modified, stock and tuned (mild or aggressively), live in a climate with extreme hot or cold temps, etc........? Do you beat the **** out of your car, even semi-regularly?
I'll jump ahead a bit and say that if you are stock to mildly tuned living anywhere in the US sans death valley or Alaska, maintain your car at manufactured recommended intervals or sooner, use reasonable quality fuel, and don't beat on your car regularly then you are wasting your money.
Additives "can" help, with emphasis placed on the word can and no emphasis on the word do because it is neither absolute or guaranteed. There are multiple factors than can lead to cylinder wall scoring and bent rods extraneous to the oil itself.
There is such a thing as too much additives which can negate what your oil is supposed to do by over diluting it. If it's piece of mind your after, pick one and stick to recommended amounts based on oil quantities per the additives stated recommendations. Additionally, you could start getting smarter about other oil brands and weights.
I appreciate the feedback.
what brand of oil would you recommend besides mb/mobil oil. I’d only use 5-40 not 0-40.
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From: Occupied Palestine
2025 Maserati Grecale Folgore and 2024 Jaguar F-PACE SVR
I still remember when people were pouring teflon into their motors around turn of the millennium so am very hesitant to pour ceramic anything into mine. Just sounds like the latest marketing gimmick to me. I do, however, like molybdenum and if the oil I'm using doesn't already have plenty of it I'll add some of my own MoS2. I'd only use the amount recommended on the bottle first time though to coat the parts, after that a small "maintenance" dose is more than enough, or again, just switch to an oil that already has a lot in it. Only the excess that didn't stick to parts comes out when you drain your oil.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Likes: 247
E550 Coupe 2wd (2016)
I always use additives.
Currently I mixed in Amsoil 10-30 and 15-50 at ~50-50, plus 1 qt of 60wt and ~1/2 qt Lucas Syn stabilizer(45wt).
Some Tungsten, and on the last change I used Boron which is supposed to stick to the parts and survive an oil change, but who knows. I doubt it.
And some Zinc and Phosphorus.
My eng takes 8.45qts but I always do 9 or more
I did use Liqui Moly MoS2 additive once, but I don't like not knowing what the remaining 99% is. I doubt it's good synthetic.
The Liq Moly Lifter stuff, no way I'm putting that in my eng. It is no doubt solvent or oil/solvent mix. Hard pass.
Currently I mixed in Amsoil 10-30 and 15-50 at ~50-50, plus 1 qt of 60wt and ~1/2 qt Lucas Syn stabilizer(45wt).
Some Tungsten, and on the last change I used Boron which is supposed to stick to the parts and survive an oil change, but who knows. I doubt it.
And some Zinc and Phosphorus.
My eng takes 8.45qts but I always do 9 or more
I did use Liqui Moly MoS2 additive once, but I don't like not knowing what the remaining 99% is. I doubt it's good synthetic.
The Liq Moly Lifter stuff, no way I'm putting that in my eng. It is no doubt solvent or oil/solvent mix. Hard pass.
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 104
Likes: 38
From: NYC
2006 cls 55 amg
I totally support additives or using different weight oils under certain conditions. If you track your car or drive it hard and you are in a high ambient temp area going to 10w60 is fine in my book. Some will say "the engine is not designed for that" but if you use standard temp range charts for various viscosity oils, I believe you are good. I had an early build e39 m5, prior to 3/2000 build dates BMW speced 10w60 after 3/2000 they speced 5w40...the only difference in the engine is that early build s62 engines used low friction piston rings and were burning a lot of oil, all other part numbers for early/late build engines are the same. I run 5w40 with Ceretek in my e63 but in my audi with the 3.0tsfi engine I recently changed to 10w60 and it has gone a long way in eliminating oil burn and the 2 second timing chain tensioner rattle that those engines are know for... These mercedes m157 coated aluminum bores are showing to be not the most durable set-up at higher mileage, adding some moly is a no- brainer in my opinion...
