It is the amount stated in the operator's manual for the given engine plus the amount that is instructed to be added, called the oil offset amount, which is shown on the vehicle datacard. Adding that amount will bring the oil to the max level of the dipstick if it was checked correctly and oil oil drained properly.

 

Interesting, why not go all 8100 Power or all 300V Comp?

 

Because I would like to go with 1L of 5W50 and I didn't found 1 Liter of the 300V. These bottles are 2L. I could take 1 bottle of 2L 300V and leave the half of the bottle for later, but for this time, I choose to go like this. The price what I get for this bundle was very good. So I'm happy.
​​​​​​

 

I see.

 

@Slobo obervations are based on having experienced his engine on better than stock oil pressure.
Under improved conditions the VVT positioning is able to work as needed with necessary oil pressure.
Having experienced that it becomes obvious when the engine no longer perform well when laggy conditions return.

The engine driveability RPM of concern here are between 900 and 3k.
This range is critical because that's the "normal driving" RPM, both city + Highway.
WOT redline use a different fueling law not related to oil pressure.

Throughout this experiment we found that stable viscosity benefit the ECU adaptation to improved engine conditions.
This is evidenced by responsive engine throttle and tranny ability to operate in the righ gear ratio below 3kRpm.

With limited oil pressure, the driveability is limited to a laggy heavy old car.
With MOD-4 oiling, the chassis response is immediate and the car feels weightless.

As a result it's a pleasure to drive that car without having to abuse the confused gearbox to match road conditions.
It's a real pleasure to drive a nimble responsive car without fighting with the engine, the gearbox and the brakes.

Entering the turbo range with a neutral non-lean fuel map and pressure sensitive pedal must offer serious improvements I have no way to test.

With stock oil on MOD-1 the engine response at 2k.RPM is limited regardless of turbos... WOT power is unaffected by "normal RPM" driveability issue.

 

Another good video talking about potential oil starvation with two stage oil pumps and low rpms. (Check around 6:50 in the video.)

 

Thanks JR! for this interesting presentation about what happens to modern engines at "normal driving Rpm"... it talks about oil starvation created by managed pump - Lots of smart bits...


It's a good use case for an effective oil film to prevent metal on metal frictions caused by heavy torque.

The video makes the case that driving at higher Rpm is better for the engine lubrication/wear torque/power and coolant circulation.

 

I would like to tell you that the oil looked catastrophically bad after draining. Something between dark brown and black. I have never seen oil like this before. Either the cleaning effect has had an effect or the 15K kilometers have taken their toll on the oil.

In any case, I'm glad I changed the oil and will keep the intervals much shorter in future.

Now I hope that the Motul 300V will protect the engine well in the future.

After 400 kilometers, it seems to me that the engine and transmission are slowly but surely "returning to normal".

 

Ya, not surprised, still scratching my head how MB sets 20,000 KMs intervals here in Canada at least a few years ago I think they decreased it to 15,000 now. Regardless, I go with 5000-8000 KMs interval for mine.

 

Are you planning to send the oil to the lab for analysis or you already discarded it?

 

These may or may not be surprising results.

What do you think caused your oil to be black... at 15Km?

What oil type is that: ester or blend?

What initial viscosity rating? 0w40

Isn't Motul 300V specifically a good racing oil not API rated because of heavy ZDDP?


++++++ WHILE WE'RE SWAPPING NOTES...
I got the opportunity to pull the plug on my ALT LIN seeking stable CAN-Bus networking under stable voltage.

Again I got rewarded with undreamed additional driveability performance from 900 to 4kRpm.

So I am sharing this experimental shortcut sonit becomes obvious to all:

1. disconnect Batts (reboot step)
2. disconnect ALT LIN (self managed)
3. Reconnect batteries
4. Scan then clear faults

ENJOY better than new light chassis... "flying-carpet" of sort!

Read here...

 

No, this oil is not so important to me, as it is the oil where the oil pump plug has been disconnected and the engine has started to clean itself. I will even take a sample at the next oil change. Then it will be important to me what it looks like.

I had 15K kilometers Motul X-cess Gen2 5W40.

 

I see.

 

Here's an interesting related video...

Give attention to the comments of how long oil drain intervals and the buildup of contaminants cause the solenoids to jam.


NOTE: I realize this is not a video about oil pump solenoids, but it still has good info concerning how VVT solenoids can become dirty and jam.

 

For a data point, I used that oil for a few years and it always got black fairly quickly within about 4K miles or sooner. I did discover leaky rings but near perfect bores however and had some oil usage at the one liter per 1250k miles of WOT driving. Currently I’m using 5/50 sp, after flushing with chemicals, so I’m looking forward to seeing how this oil performs. It’s been a few months, all is well, but only have a bit more than 1k miles on the 50w.

 

I am too switching to 5W-50 later on, if for example staying with Motul, what do you think of Motul Power 5W-50?

 

Interesting topic again.. the improvements apart of that you can listen to music ~4h and you have more stable voltage, can we confirm that the tranny shifts are more accurate than before?

thank you for sharing those improvements

P.S. I notice something strange not sure if somehow related to some kind of "reset" some module or whatever but I wasn't drive my car for 2 consecutive days (which usually don't happen) and I notice the shifts are 1 idea better than before and I can't explain to me what could be the reason except to be some kind of reset, do you have any idea?

P.S. Happy New Year everyone, wish you all the best!

 

> Flip chaos around:
As far as the tranny shifts improving: our chassis can be setup for great seemless shifts, but shifts are often marginal from factory.

-- Realize that throttle LAG is paired with banging tranny from the shared cause.
-- The flip-side is strong precise throttle + strong precise shifts as tested on stock firmware.


> Conditions Are Simple:
-1- Normal tranny conditions (ATF less 40kMi.)
-2- predictable engine timings (MOD + LIN)
-3- reliable ECU<-->TCU CAN bandwidth

If I can do it, so can you!
It's not perfect right away but you should notice improvements over 250Mi as the engine adapt to better conditions, the TCU will match and shadow ECU improvements really quickly all by itself.

Every step towards predictable timings get rewarded by strong ECU-TCU performance above 900.Rpm now 800.Rpm.


> ALT-LIN behaves like Oil MOD :
--> You provide the setup you want, ECU grades your rewards.

-- MOD results are squarely based on viscosity...
-- ALT-LIN squarely based on timings...

> One modification without the other sums up to less... duh.
-- Setup does not need to be 100% perfect to help ECU/TCU self-tune up.
-- Of course you can not have limp-tensioners but oil pressure should help that well.


> Slow timings are tough!
Ppl who play music know the hardest is to play well the slow solo precisely - Same thing for ECU: the hardest is performance around 2000.Rpm, not WOT.


>> STRONG PRESSURE SENSITIVE THROTTLE at street & highway speeds !!


> Experimental Risks Involved...
-- We can think of releasing lead-acid battery hydrogen from its vent pipe - OEM batteries are properly vented outside for that reason (check yours if unsure!)

-- If I had my pick I'd go with 13.7V but reg is precisely self-managed to about 14.15V. Right now I am not worried about off gasing.

-- Ready to handle Canadian winter Max load ?
A/C defrost + wipers + headlights + defroster + stop lights + heated seats... try and monitor your live voltage on IC Display...

-- I take that any day over "drained by driving" below 12.0V by ECU gone wild... 1300.Watt battery charge 90A current.


+++ Misc Disclosures :
Me dislikes solderless pins a lot...
I run reliably fast: [ESP/ISM/EIS/SCM/...]
I still have unbalanced CAN branches on F-SAM

 

I really, really want to unplug...have a dummy solenoid and plug caps on standby...but must consider our Canadian winter. Specifically Mercedes description of the "piston heating function" of low oil pressure as described in earlier posts. Although garaged, we park outside while visiting, shopping, etc., during winter months so the engine is subject to below-zero starts frequently for half the year. I suppose running a specific winter oil would help...

 

I think piston heat is also important for the direct injection. But I think if you do the following you'll be fine:
1) run a suitable oil for your conditions. This may mean a 0W-40.
2) not idle the engine excessively to warm it up, as that will actually increase the time that the pistons spend under operational temps.
3) don't drive like an animal until the oil (not just coolant) is warm. This can take 12-18 minutes depending on your environmental conditions.
​​​

 

How cold are you referring to? Quebec City, Winnipeg, Calgary, Edmonton type temperatures? 0W40 will be just fine.

Just follow @kevm14 advice. Let it warm up for the turbo casing to reach its expanded size before stepping hard on it.

 

FWIW, I am from Toronto, occasionally drive to Muskoka to visit friends. Running 5W-40 no issues, unplugged for more than half a year, car just keeps getting better. I have friends in Calgary that also drive with 5W-40, if you live in colder parts of Alberta or somewhere colder then stick with 0W-40. The unplug helped decrease the time to heat up the engine by at least 20-30 minutes for me too so even better.

 

FWIW (at least from what I remembered) I might had remembered it incorrectly though but even when stock, oil pressure is at normal pressure mode when doing cold startup regardless, it just drops down eventually, so there is that too.

 

if I were in Waterloo (former residence) I would also be running 5W40.

 

Good advice as well.