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Does anyone know of a front end camber adjustment kit ?
I am lowered of course and do not want to raise the car but I don't want to eat through only 1/8th of my tire contact patch while the rest remains like new.
There are no factory camber adjustments on our 63's.... as Oren stated, you can add camber bolts to reduce the negative readings.
I've asked my alignment shop to see exactly what needs to be ordered, right now I'm at -2.6 camber, this is the same at the rear.
The thing is the 265 is actually narrow on the 9.5 rim allowing the stretched outward sidewall to make road surface contact when cornering hard when on the power.
CASTER - Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive / lift under brake and acceleration.
THE K-MAC PATENTED DESIGN FRONT KIT PROVIDES UP to 4 times the adjustment range of the "one offset position' fluted bolts and is PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTMENT - accurately on car (under load) direct on alignment rack. Resolving the costly premature inner edge wear even if the car has been lowered up to 50mm.
Extra feature is that the front kit replaces the 4 highest wearing bushings and is 2 axis / mono ball (self aligning) without the OEM oil and air voids. Result is noticeably improved brake and steering response.
Rear kit also provides precise Camber adjustment for the first time (and extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility).
Another popular kit manufactured is uprated replacement bushings (12) for the '6' multi link rear arms. Providing significant improvement to rear end stability, less twitch / flex, loss of traction especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
W211 incl, AMG models
Front Camber and Caster Kit #502216 K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) Kit #502526 K $480 Rear Multi link arm bush Kit #502528 K $480
AMG Mount #502528 -1 K $480
Delivery: One kit $30 ($20 each extra kit).
Order: sales@k-mac.com or 24/7 Toll Free 18004140762(Visa or M/Card).]
Front Camber and Caster Kit #502216 K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) Kit #502526 K $480 Rear Multi link arm bush Kit #502528 K $480
AMG Mount #502528 -1 K $480
Delivery: One kit $30 ($20 each extra kit).
Order: sales@k-mac.com or 24/7 Toll Free 18004140762(Visa or M/Card).]
Your web page lists these numbers ?
# 502916 K
# 503116 K
Ok I'm interested but your web page is just a mess sorry and I could not find a 2018 [213] AMG e63s front camber part #
If you could give me the right kit # for the front camber set I'll place an order..
2018 E63 S (white wagon), 2016 Viper ACR Extreme, 2005 Porsche GT3 Cup race car,2020 GLE
If that's the outside of the tire? Looks like a toe issue of toe in not toe out. (toe out destroys the inside shoulder not outside, to much toe in destroys outer edge) -2.6 is decent negative camber you shouldn't be way out on the shoulder of tire (if that's the outside edge) . The 2.6 negative camber should have moved the wear in some. Its a toe issue either way which maybe due to the lowering of the car . Always re-align after the car is lowered. If a car is to low it can also do some other funky stuff under load because the whole suspension symmetry becomes way off
Or the negative camber was done before lowering that could have then thrown off the camber adjustment and maybe you have a lot less negative then you think
Last edited by Clk63blkseries; 07-03-2018 at 01:20 PM.
If that's the outside of the tire? Looks like a toe issue of toe in not toe out. (toe out destroys the inside shoulder not outside) -2.6 is decent negative camber you shouldn't be way out on the shoulder of tire . The negative camber should have moved the wear in some
Agree, it looks like Ronin is scrubbing a bit which is indicative of toe and not camber. Toe issues are way worse for wear than camber imho.
K-MAC, this is the correct part number (502816L) according to a web search for a W213 chassis vehicle for front camber/caster adjustment. We are just looking to confirm that this will in fact work on Ronin's E63S before we press out the stock bushing and find they wont work and the only replacement option from MBZ is the replacement of the complete arm.
Dudes that is the inside of the tire, toe is set to zero..5,200 mi.
Sidewall flex on a slightly stretched tire is the main wear issue.. My GTS has the same alignment spec Cup 2 tires and zero issue with 10,200 mi. on the clock.
Dudes that is the inside of the tire, toe is set to zero..5,200 mi.
Sidewall flex on a slightly stretched tire is the main wear issue.. My GTS has the same alignment spec Cup 2 tires and zero issue with 10,200 mi. on the clock.
Inside shoulder wall, definitely a Toe issue. You need more Toe-IN (positive toe), zero toe on a "family sedan" is basically negative toe (Toe out) when the car is rolling. The more race-car like the suspension is setup (fewer rubber bushings, more spherical bearings at joints), the straighter the toe can be without excessive wear issues.
What part of what I've been saying is not sinking in.... -2.6 camber a slightly stretched tire [rounded sidewall] AWD digging for corner grip...
Sometimes I should just not post on forums where the responders know only what others regurgitate is nonsense...
What part of what I've been saying is not sinking in.... -2.6 camber a slightly stretched tire [rounded sidewall] AWD digging for corner grip...
Sometimes I should just not post on forums where the responders know only what others regurgitate is nonsense...
The part where I had a 245 tire on a 9" wide rim and a 275 on a 10" wide rim at negative 2.4* camber and did not have the wear you are having by adjusting the toe. The part where I have played with suspension settings and alignments on numerous vehicles over the last 20 years :-)
Probably because I'm an old man and I guess I've just never asked this question but please tell me what is the point of lowering a car that isn't designed for it? My 17 R8 was probably the lowest car to the road I've had but I certainly never thought of lowering it.
Is all of this just for looks or is there something else performance wise?
The part where I had a 245 tire on a 9" wide rim and a 275 on a 10" wide rim at negative 2.4* camber and did not have the wear you are having by adjusting the toe. The part where I have played with suspension settings and alignments on numerous vehicles over the last 20 years :-)
Ok I'm impressed 20 yrs, now try 45 yrs and learn to size a proper tire wheel setup and drive a AWD car hard in the canyons...
Sorry dude I know all about toe and since there was zero sign of feathering and having checked the alignment 3 times in the last 6 months on my car with the different ride heights I'll stick with the knowledge I have learned over the years on everything from CJ5 jeeps- Group B Rally cars and everything in-between..
What all the speculators have failed to talk about is tire pressure.....no need because it was correct
Probably because I'm an old man and I guess I've just never asked this question but please tell me what is the point of lowering a car that isn't designed for it? My 17 R8 was probably the lowest car to the road I've had but I certainly never thought of lowering it.
Is all of this just for looks or is there something else performance wise?
Could it be for lowering the center of gravity and a bit more cornering grip from a 4,700 lb car.?
I'm old too but then again I drive the crap out of my cars in the canyons..
Oh yeah I took the wagon out into the canyons to see if there was any noticeable difference in the feel of the car with the 285/30/20 up front and all I can say is the car should have come with them stock.
The steering feels so much better and there is more noticeable front grip in the twisties, maybe it's because I'm not cornering on the soft sidewalls..
Cold tire pressure 51 psi.front 50 psi.rear... I'll be testing a set of 305/30/20 on the rear today..
Any noticable difference in ride comfort moving to the 30 from the 35?
Originally Posted by ronin amg
I'll be ordering the kit today...
Oh yeah I took the wagon out into the canyons to see if there was any noticeable difference in the feel of the car with the 285/30/20 up front and all I can say is the car should have come with them stock.
The steering feels so much better and there is more noticeable front grip in the twisties, maybe it's because I'm not cornering on the soft sidewalls..
Cold tire pressure 51 psi.front 50 psi.rear... I'll be testing a set of 305/30/20 on the rear today..
Any noticable difference in ride comfort moving to the 30 from the 35?
None, it feels great and the 305/30/20 fit the stock rear wheels perfectly. I installed a 5mm spacer on the rear and a 12mm spacer in the front..
They fill the car as it should..
07-01-2018, 10:55 AM
