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Of course it does and thats why I first did the erasing and then subsequently, after my flight, handled the rest...
Its not in my normal train of thought to check everyones IP via the mod section to confirm but this one seemed a bit over the top. And yes its very fishy but I dont have proof that the vendor was involved... I would need more than supposition. So for now, we will turn the thread back to the OP and member feedback on tunes please!!!!!!
thanks vic55! For the first time being a member for a few years now.. I felt like somewhat biased in terms of responses I was receiving. Especially the amount of inbox messages spear headed by AMR.
U came in clutch!!
lol im still open to opinions and personal experiences forum members have dealt with, in terms of tuners
Last edited by Meeru; 07-24-2018 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: grammar
thanks vic55! For the first time being a member for a few years now.. I felt like somewhat biased in terms of responses I was receiving. Especially the amount of inbox messages spear headed by AMR.
U came in clutch!!
lol im still open to opinions and personal experiences forum members have dealt with, in terms of tuners
On each occasion I've pursued a topic of particular interest to me that led to AMR or otherwise delved deep into their tunes, something untoward like this arises--this alone speaks volumes to me.
There's a word for this: shady.
Last edited by limeypride; 07-24-2018 at 10:39 PM.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
Originally Posted by jkob5
You should look into this more. Having a Renntech tune can still very much invalidate a warranty claim on the engine. Dealers are happy to flash the ecu for you, but forget to mention this.
If you get any Renntech upgrad through aristocrat motors (the mb dealer in kc) they will still fullly honor all warranty claims. My buddy has a 2014 cls63 that had every available Renntech upgrade done (larger turbos, exhsust, etc) & started having oil consumltion issues near the 3 year mark. He got a full brand new engine replaced under warranty right before his lease ended & him buying the car.
I went with EuroCharged--a decision based on pure research. I focused on net gains, reputation, repeatable/discoverable evidence (as opposed to hearsay and/or one-off hero runs), bang for the buck, reported power gains (big focus on torque for me), additional tuning features like removing speed limiter and additional pops and bangs, etc.
EuroCharged is unequivocally the best tune and I'll hear nothing to the contrary... OK, I'm joking here , I'm just making Vic's assertion a reality, i.e. that everybody loves their tune and almost nobody [me included] can compare side-by-side under consistent conditions... hence the research strategy.
I went with a local shop here in my area--Snohomish European--they cover Seattle, Woodinville, Bellevue, Monroe, Everett, etc. I recently got them setup as an EC dealer so now it's as simple as me driving by. I also worked directly with Jerry (EuroCharged owner/tuner) to make that happen and, as expected, he's also a pleasure to deal with. I've taken two free revisions from him since installing the first revision and each has added slightly more low-end torque--I couldn't be more pleased.
Here are the figures based on a Mustang Dyno; as impressive as these are, they'd be substantially higher on a Dynojet but I don't have one of those around to try: NB: these are wheel-numbers so using a 15% drivetrain loss, that equates to 731 horsepower and 865 ft Ibs of torque at the crank
Here's the resulting 0-60mph:
Here's what folks see in their rearview mirror when I approach:
… and here's what they see just a second or two later :
impressive number. When you are doing launch control, are you using paddle shifter or in auto?
impressive number. When you are doing launch control, are you using paddle shifter or in auto?
The two are mutually exclusive, that is, you can't maintain launch control and use paddles. That said and in apparent opposition of what I just said, I do indeed use paddles... or did for the 2.85s run--so great question! Specifically, the car doesn't care what transmission mode you're in once race start/launch control has been engaged--it will shift for you. However, if you pull a paddle during launch, you're back in control. My approach goes like this:
car to Individual (soft dampers, responsive engine, traction control in the middle)
bury both pedals as normal
release the brake --> you're launching
immediately pull the left (downshift) paddle
now the gears are yours--I shift slightly before the car does and it yields a *much* better shift but you need to be on it, 2nd comes up real quick
The two are mutually exclusive, that is, you can't maintain launch control and use paddles. That said and in apparent opposition of what I just said, I do indeed use paddles... or did for the 2.85s run--so great question! Specifically, the car doesn't care what transmission mode you're in once race start/launch control has been engaged--it will shift for you. However, if you pull a paddle during launch, you're back in control. My approach goes like this:
car to Individual (soft dampers, responsive engine, traction control in the middle)
bury both pedals as normal
release the brake --> you're launching
immediately pull the left (downshift) paddle
now the gears are yours--I shift slightly before the car does and it yields a *much* better shift but you need to be on it, 2nd comes up real quick
… this technique is how I got the 2.85s.
I used Limepride’s technique and it works very well. I haven’t matched his 0-60 yet but did obtain a 2.98 on Dragy.
2018 Mercedes E63 S, Boring SUV, 2015 CLS63 AMR Stage 1 (traded), 2015 Audi S8 w/ APR stage 2 (sold)
Originally Posted by limeypride
NICE!
Is your car tuned or is that stock--I never tried this technique when stock?
Do you feel a big difference 0-60mph post tune? I definitely feel a difference beyond 60 (0-100 and 60-100 etc) but I only feel a slight difference 0-60. Idk maybe it's because 0-60 happens so quickly.
Do you feel a big difference 0-60mph post tune? I definitely feel a difference beyond 60 (0-100 and 60-100 etc) but I only feel a slight difference 0-60. Idk maybe it's because 0-60 happens so quickly.
No, I definitely didn't "feel" a big difference--the miniscule performance enhancements between 0-60 runs when you start with this much power require a GPS device to measure. My Dragy more than confirmed the point, though. I think your closing point describes it perfectly...
PS: if you don't have a Dragy, as the great Woody once said, "Get one!"
I went with EuroCharged--a decision based on pure research. I focused on net gains, reputation, repeatable/discoverable evidence (as opposed to hearsay and/or one-off hero runs), bang for the buck, reported power gains (big focus on torque for me), additional tuning features like removing speed limiter and additional pops and bangs, etc.
EuroCharged is unequivocally the best tune and I'll hear nothing to the contrary... OK, I'm joking here , I'm just making Vic's assertion a reality, i.e. that everybody loves their tune and almost nobody [me included] can compare side-by-side under consistent conditions... hence the research strategy.
I went with a local shop here in my area--Snohomish European--they cover Seattle, Woodinville, Bellevue, Monroe, Everett, etc. I recently got them setup as an EC dealer so now it's as simple as me driving by. I also worked directly with Jerry (EuroCharged owner/tuner) to make that happen and, as expected, he's also a pleasure to deal with. I've taken two free revisions from him since installing the first revision and each has added slightly more low-end torque--I couldn't be more pleased.
Here are the figures based on a Mustang Dyno; as impressive as these are, they'd be substantially higher on a Dynojet but I don't have one of those around to try: NB: these are wheel-numbers so using a 15% drivetrain loss, that equates to 731 horsepower and 865 ft Ibs of torque at the crank
Here's the resulting 0-60mph:
Here's what folks see in their rearview mirror when I approach:
… and here's what they see just a second or two later :
impressive numbers!!! All u have is a stg 1 tune correct?
trying to launch and then downshifting on the paddle.. do u shift at 5500rpm?
Also, would you know why everyone calculates drivetrain loss at 15-20%? I feel like everyone has different numbers for rwd vs awd
hey Nav, were the factory pipes cut or they dropped the tranny for the install?
Yes, the pipes were cut. My installer said the time and cost to move the transmission is extensive. He said that it would be easy to weld back the pipes. These were the same concerns I had prior to installation. I trust my installer implicitly. He works on all my projects.
impressive numbers!!! All u have is a stg 1 tune correct?
trying to launch and then downshifting on the paddle.. do u shift at 5500rpm?
Also, would you know why everyone calculates drivetrain loss at 15-20%? I feel like everyone has different numbers for rwd vs awd
Yes, just an ECU update from EC. The dyno numbers are from a Mustang dyno, too, which, if my RS7 is anything to go by, reads ~50whp less than say Dynojets.
For launch, yes, I engage LC, launch, then immediately pull the left paddle--I upshift (I'm guessing here) around 6K--perhaps closer to your guess of 5.5K since the RPMs climb so fast in first. Between gears and up to 4th, it's just a matter of learning your own car's optimal shift point but I can move through them now in such a way that the car loses zero forward propulsion (well, obviously not but as far as my mere human senses can determine) and certainly feeling faster than launch doing it.
The drivetrain loss varies like a Big Mac (depending upon who you ask). 15% has proven to be the most common number I've heard or a reasonable mean average--either way, I've got no basis beyond that for choosing it. I've also found that whp doesn't really translate to tangible performance metrics so it's mostly bragging rights. That said, the car's a beast--I outran two cars in the past 4 days: a 458 and a Vette (the Vette gave me a much harder time--looked like 1LZ trim--than the Ferrari did but it lost, nonetheless). From a dig, neither of those cars are a challenge. I also raced a 720s from a roll on the freeway -->
Yes, the pipes were cut. My installer said the time and cost to move the transmission is extensive. He said that it would be easy to weld back the pipes. These were the same concerns I had prior to installation. I trust my installer implicitly. He works on all my projects.
Nav
good to know, yea that’s what I was told by two shops here, saying that the cost to drop it is way too much labour. Best is to cut it and weld it back.
Send some videos! Wanna hear it!! I’ve been watching Shardul’s(UPD) on youtube as my only reference lol
Yes, just an ECU update from EC. The dyno numbers are from a Mustang dyno, too, which, if my RS7 is anything to go by, reads ~50whp less than say Dynojets.
For launch, yes, I engage LC, launch, then immediately pull the left paddle--I upshift (I'm guessing here) around 6K--perhaps closer to your guess of 5.5K since the RPMs climb so fast in first. Between gears and up to 4th, it's just a matter of learning your own car's optimal shift point but I can move through them now in such a way that the car loses zero forward propulsion (well, obviously not but as far as my mere human senses can determine) and certainly feeling faster than launch doing it.
The drivetrain loss varies like a Big Mac (depending upon who you ask). 15% has proven to be the most common number I've heard or a reasonable mean average--either way, I've got no basis beyond that for choosing it. I've also found that whp doesn't really translate to tangible performance metrics so it's mostly bragging rights. That said, the car's a beast--I outran two cars in the past 4 days: a 458 and a Vette (the Vette gave me a much harder time--looked like 1LZ trim--than the Ferrari did but it lost, nonetheless). From a dig, neither of those cars are a challenge. I also raced a 720s from a roll on the freeway -->
lol @ the big mac reference.. Im going in for my rear diff fluid change tomorrow, I’ll give it a try after that.
Pulling on a 720s and 458 is impressive.. good stuff!
lol @ the big mac reference.. Im going in for my rear diff fluid change tomorrow, I’ll give it a try after that.
Pulling on a 720s and 458 is impressive.. good stuff!
I think he mentioned he raced a 720s from a roll but seriously doubt he pulled that car unless the Maca was just cruising. That car pushes P1, 918, and LaFerrari numbers.
I owned a 14 Ferrari 458 and while it was an "event" car and created an amazing sense of ownership; it could not get out of the box all too easy and from a roll against a tuned E63S would be a good race. Our E63S's are rather brilliant Ill say.
I think he mentioned he raced a 720s from a roll but seriously doubt he pulled that car unless the Maca was just cruising. That car pushes P1, 918, and LaFerrari numbers.
lol @ the big mac reference.. Im going in for my rear diff fluid change tomorrow, I’ll give it a try after that.
Pulling on a 720s and 458 is impressive.. good stuff!
No he meant he had to bow down to the 720S haha. That car is out of this world fast.
Not that the E63s isn't. Few cars have a 128mph trap out of the box.
16 E550 Cab, 2003 Ram bright red crewcab 4x4 we call Clifford :)
Originally Posted by limeypride
I went with EuroCharged--a decision based on pure research. I focused on net gains, reputation, repeatable/discoverable evidence (as opposed to hearsay and/or one-off hero runs), bang for the buck, reported power gains (big focus on torque for me), additional tuning features like removing speed limiter and additional pops and bangs, etc.
EuroCharged is unequivocally the best tune and I'll hear nothing to the contrary... OK, I'm joking here , I'm just making Vic's assertion a reality, i.e. that everybody loves their tune and almost nobody [me included] can compare side-by-side under consistent conditions... hence the research strategy.
I went with a local shop here in my area--Snohomish European--they cover Seattle, Woodinville, Bellevue, Monroe, Everett, etc. I recently got them setup as an EC dealer so now it's as simple as me driving by. I also worked directly with Jerry (EuroCharged owner/tuner) to make that happen and, as expected, he's also a pleasure to deal with. I've taken two free revisions from him since installing the first revision and each has added slightly more low-end torque--I couldn't be more pleased.
Here are the figures based on a Mustang Dyno; as impressive as these are, they'd be substantially higher on a Dynojet but I don't have one of those around to try: NB: these are wheel-numbers so using a 15% drivetrain loss, that equates to 731 horsepower and 865 ft Ibs of torque at the crank
Here's the resulting 0-60mph:
Here's what folks see in their rearview mirror when I approach:
… and here's what they see just a second or two later :
I went with EuroCharged--a decision based on pure research. I focused on net gains, reputation, repeatable/discoverable evidence (as opposed to hearsay and/or one-off hero runs), bang for the buck, reported power gains (big focus on torque for me), additional tuning features like removing speed limiter and additional pops and bangs, etc.
EuroCharged is unequivocally the best tune and I'll hear nothing to the contrary... OK, I'm joking here , I'm just making Vic's assertion a reality, i.e. that everybody loves their tune and almost nobody [me included] can compare side-by-side under consistent conditions... hence the research strategy.
I went with a local shop here in my area--Snohomish European--they cover Seattle, Woodinville, Bellevue, Monroe, Everett, etc. I recently got them setup as an EC dealer so now it's as simple as me driving by. I also worked directly with Jerry (EuroCharged owner/tuner) to make that happen and, as expected, he's also a pleasure to deal with. I've taken two free revisions from him since installing the first revision and each has added slightly more low-end torque--I couldn't be more pleased.
Here are the figures based on a Mustang Dyno; as impressive as these are, they'd be substantially higher on a Dynojet but I don't have one of those around to try: NB: these are wheel-numbers so using a 15% drivetrain loss, that equates to 731 horsepower and 865 ft Ibs of torque at the crank
Here's the resulting 0-60mph:
Here's what folks see in their rearview mirror when I approach:
… and here's what they see just a second or two later :
Could you plz use dragy to test the 100-200km/h or 60-130mph? I have the DME stage 2 tune, I want to compare these two tune.
good to know, yea that’s what I was told by two shops here, saying that the cost to drop it is way too much labour. Best is to cut it and weld it back.
Send some videos! Wanna hear it!! I’ve been watching Shardul’s(UPD) on youtube as my only reference lol
I’ll try and record some for you this weekend. 👍🏼 I hope it translates from live to online media decently enough for you. I have my doubts though.
07-24-2018, 07:13 PM
, I'm just making Vic's assertion a reality, i.e. that everybody loves their tune and almost nobody [me included] can compare side-by-side under consistent conditions... hence the research strategy.
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